Scott, It's a fairly mild hydraulic cam. I had TA grind it for me. We used the 232 intake lobe with .515 lift (1.6 rockers) from their 310 grind. And the 238 exhaust lobe with .525 lift from their 290H grind. I asked for a tight 108 lobe center but it actually came in at 109. I installed it at 104 degrees for 5 deg. advanced. I understand Mike has available cores for hydraulic rollers now! If I don't like the way this runs I might consider going that route. That should eliminate wiped lobes although I wiped lobes on a cheap roller cam I put in my TR about 12 years ago. Mike offers two different materials for these new cams. I don't know which one is better. James, Go for it. I think they're a lot more fun than something that's too valuable to hammer on. That one you showed me would be a great starting point.
Some updated pictures. Had the rear end powder coated along with the springs which are out of a Skylark station wagon, then heated and shortened. The new Global West anti squat brackets are shown which move the instant center up and back for more traction off the line. They required welding. The 1" swaybar I made about 30 years ago but recently had the ends squeezed narrow and drilled with 3 holes for 5 different adjustment combinations. The endlinks are really neat from HR parts and stuff, then shortened to about half their original length. Rear disks are from TSM MFG, 11 1/4" dia., calipers from '79 -'85 Riviera. Hawk HPS pads. The axles are new from Moser (quick service) with 1/2" screw in studs. I painted them so they don't rust. I'm going to try and machine the CCW wheel center caps down and insert some silver trishield Buick emblems.
That car is so sick. I just passed out on my keyboard. Fat tires are sexy. Especially when it's done right.
Well that didn't take long ou: Paul, sorry I'm going to miss this mean machine at the Weinman Nationals next week, DL
Here's an update. The firewall and underbody was soda blasted and coated with Lizard Skin ceramic heat barrier, then a type of bed liner material. Shown on the rotisserie I had to buy because most businesses in San Antonio are too rinky dink to invest in themselves. My crude and dangerous method of lowering the body onto the frame. The cool fuel pickup I bought from ROBBMC perf prod. with -8 AN fittings. The master cylinder I bought from Matt's Classic Bowties and the neat billet battery tray from one of my favorite builders, Schwartz performance. The "3" is from a Mazda 3, one of the few ricer parts on the car. The trunk is covered in Dynamat, and my crappy carpeting job. Next time I'll get a pro to do this part!ou: Last is the before and after center caps with a silver trishield machined down to fit in a machined down cap. My son was nearly killed on Friday afternoon while mowing weeds with my Dad's tractor and 6' mower attachment at the ranch 40 miles north of San Antonio. He hit some rocks and thought a rock hit him in the back. He lost his breath and almost passed out but managed to drive the tractor back to the ranch house and thank God his cell phone made it through to a friend who got him to the hospital. X-rays showed a 3.5 inch galvanized wire entered next to his shoulder blade and went through his lung collapsing it and stopping just short of exiting near the collar bone. They sucked the air out of the plural cavity to reinflate his lung and sent him to BAMC in SA for surgery. He's recovering nicely. Praise God it missed all arteries and veins and his heart! This most important situation has caused me to get behind on the car. I fired it up, sounds fine, and broke it in and added the inner valve springs. Not sure if I'll make the Dallas festivities.
Paul, You are out of control, and I love it! You will be my consultant in a year or two when I build my Stage 2 resto mod GSX clone. I can't imagine what you have in this car, but my motto is build it the way you want it, and it looks like you have done that. Looks great, and I heard it sounds even better! I am so glad Robert is doing well. He's a great guy, and we will continue to pray for a speedy recovery. No sweat if you can't make it up here this weekend. I'll be down soon and make an appointment to stop by and see 3GS. :TU:
Thanks for all the kind words, guys. Some of you are really funny. I finally got it running on Saturday. Broke it in and added the inner springs but forgot to change the 3000 rpm rev limit. I was thinking the FAST system is a slow learner, then I checked the rev limit setting.ou: . I put it on 5500 and now it runs great! I'll probably raise the limit later. I set the timing at 32deg total. I had a problem with the left rear tire rubbing after I filled up with premium. I loosened all the body bushings and centered the body over the rear tires and that helped some. I'm running the BMR 2" drop rear springs and it looks cool but I may need to go with the 1" drop Hotchkis or the collapsed Station wagon springs. The front was too high and so I cut 1/2 coil from the Global West small block springs. I think it's still too high so I may cut some more off. It would sure be nice to have coil over shocks or an AirRide setup to set ride height. The brakes suck so far. I have to stand on them to get it to slow down. I don't know what's supposed to seal between the dual diaphragm brake booster and the master cylinder, probably a rubber seal. I put some black silicone around there but I may still have a vacuum leak. Anybody know where to get a rubber seal? I'm reading about the Hydroboost systems but I don't want too easy of a pedal. I think too easy of a pedal is too easy to lockup the tires in a panic type stop. Anybody have experience with a Hydroboost? I can't wait to get it all sorted out. It sounds fine and makes a lot more power than anything I have ever driven. I took it to a car show on Saturday at my church and it won best of show even though it's not finished yet.
No, I left my new camera at home. When I get the ride height set and the front air dam mounted I'll post some pictures.
I dont think there is vacuum leaking between the booster and master you may just have the wrong bore master cyl for you calipers I went thru many master cyls when i fist put baer brakes on mine
OK, tell me more. Which Baer brake system do you have and which bore diameter master cylinder did you end up with? Also which brake booster do you have?
On my car I have a stock repo booster and a 1 inch bore willwood master and it works pretty good i still think it could be better, but I have the track brakes so there are different pistons in the caliper thus needing a different master than you. I guess the first thing is to ckeck that the booster is getting proper vac.
I finally got the rear brakes working. It seems the distribution block I bought from Matts Classic Bowties has a valve inside that closes if the brakes are not vacuum bled first. It's under the electric switch and is fairly easy to reset to the forward position with an awl. I trimmed another half coil from the front springs, for a total of one coil, and a drop of 2 and 1/4 inches. They are the Global West small block springs. The 3" round tubes and shorty header extensions hang down so low I was scraping them even backing out of my driveway. I bought a set of 3" oval tubes and mufflers from Spintech and had my friend Caleb, a master welder and fabricator, put them on. He did a great job! The lowest thing underneath now is the stock trans pan! I hate the sound of these mufflers! Others may love the sound but they are way too loud for me. I don't understand how a straight through Dynomax is much quieter than these Spintechs and they have 8 spin chambers. I took it to Henderson Performance to baseline the power on their chassis dyno which is real conservative ( it recorded 27% humidity which is way off. South Texas is at least 75% humidity in the summer ). With the torque converter unlocked it made 428 HP and 448 TQ. Cory says this equates to about 570 HP and 600 TQ at the engine. I'll retest to see what difference the exhaust change made. The first picture is Caleb making an X pipe from two oval 90's. Then is the before picture of the exhaust from the side.
More picts. We're still working on the stereo and alarm systems and the interior. I put a big aluminum radiator in with twin Spal 14" fans from Alumitech. And I bought a Hydroboost system from CPP and they recommended a 1&1/8" bore master cylinder. I have lots of brake assist now but the pedal feels hard at first and then kind of goes soft before feeling firm again. Our new Buick Enclave feels the same way.
