Hey all, I haven't looked yet but is there any links in this forum for rebuilding the Rochester 2 bbl Carb. I've been told by a mechanic I might have a heavy float since I can't get away from my idle settings running very rich. I haven't been very successful at rebuilding my carbs in the past, usually having to buy new reman. carbs. Thanks, Mac 1970 J-3000 Gladiator 350v8 Buick, .020
There is a how to rebuild a 2bb carb thread in the mixing box section. Look at the book by Doug Roe, it covers the 2bb in detail. The reman carbs are not too hard to find for the 2bb versions so it would be worth looking at....
Not many moving parts in the 2GV. Running rich is a good sign, means your throttle plate shaft is not worn out, also the float is most likely saturated and not floating so nicely. I use carb cleaner and compressed air for my cleaning. Do not mess with the power valve hanging from the top plate. It looks like a nail with a spring around it. Everything else is fair game. These carbs were a compromise, venturies too small for high rpm, too big for fuel economy, but cheap, so Just Right! Sometime this spring I will know if my four barrel swap is worth it, others have done this and say it is.
I swapped from the 2 bbl. carb to a Q-jet on my '69 Wagoneer back in about 1974 and have never regretted it. Milage improved when I kept my toes out of the back barrels and it runs like a scalded cat when I need it to. Mr. Ed
I rebuilt my small bore carb but the kit I got from Napa Auto Parts was for large bore Rochester 2bbl carbs and none of the gaskets worked. I had other old carb kits that I pieced together to rebuild with fresh gaskets and an internal cleaning. It seems my Carb has an internal vacuum leak or cracked body or something. Every time I accelerate I get popping noises, not backfires from carb. throat, engine runs but I don't have solid power. Never seen this before. Everything was replaced on the moving parts and gaskets are fresh, but didn't get the problem to go away. I'll have to wait till next week to order the new carb replacement from Recarbco in Pittsburg, CA Any suggestions would be appreciated? Thanks, Mac
Mac I would check out a place called dons performance here in Vacaville. hes right on Davis street across from Sonic. My buddy has him rebuild all his carbs and they seem to come out right.
Guys I just rebuilt my 2v carb with a very good kit from walker. It came with all neccesary gaskets and worked out very well. It also came with the rubber piece and spring that fit on the end of the bottom of the power valve.
Update to my 1970 J-3000 Gladiator truck: My 1970 J-Series Gladiator is down with mechanical backfiring thru the carb after startup, idles fine but started losing power and lifter noises, eventually got worse, believe I have a flat RV camshaft and/or lifter or clogged oil passageway. So teardown will be the next course of action, but not this weekend. The J-3000 has had the plugs and wires replaced, Timing advanced and retarded, Pertronix installed and a new rebuilt Carb installed and still the backfiring thru the carb. I have 2 stock camshafts I can install, but I don't think my Aluminum Timing cover has much life left in it, the helicoils on the fuel pump mounting has pulled out and I'm getting oil leaks. Gotta find out why I'm getting an oiling problem to the lifter or passageways if that is my problem. I'm not really prepared to disassemble my engine at this time, may have to try to flush out the oil passages or do the 455v8 Buick modification on my 350v8 Buick engine by putting a oil tube or hose to the plugs under the flywheel to the circulate the oil to the back of the motor. Any suggestions or inputs appreciated!ray: Thanks, Mac
I have found my problem........... Last Saturday, I decided to dive into the truck, removed the valve covers and started the engine... Found the #5 Cyl. Exhaust valve pushrod spinning, during the engine run. Flat RV camshaft. Decided to pull engine out and put my $100.00 Craigslist find 350v8 Buick engine in its place which I've had for 4 years on an engine stand. Old engine out by 2 pm, swapping parts from old to other used engine, till 12 midnight, Sunday morning was hoisting new engine in the engine bay around 1 AM and slipped and fell from front bumper to the floor, trying to get the bellhousing and transmission input to line up. Landed on my step stool, left butt cheek, bruised my left side belly handle and layed on the floor for about 5 minutes, going damn that hurt and the what if's came out, thinking if I died, how long would it have been till they found me? After I got up and rested the damn engine lined right up and hard pointed perfectly. Cleaned up the garage and pushed the truck in and closed the door and quick shower and bed. Had to wake up in the morning for the 4th of July parade in Fairfield, CA with my local 4x4 Club, pretty much slept on the grass waiting for the parade to start . Monday, finished all the installs and bolted everything in started the engine around 8 pm, ran smoothly, alot of lifter noise, but that was to be expected, started and stopped the engine several times to let the lubrication of the engine get settled. Drove it to work on Tuesday, Wed. and yesterday. Now the problematic engine will get torn down when the parts cash comes in! Mac
Mac,,, are you adding zddp to your engine oil..... if not that is what most likely what caused your problem.... this is a absolute must , no matter what oil you are using.. to be sure and safe you must add it to your oil.... now as to the carb,,, consider swapping your carb for a holley 2300,,, easier to tune and as reliable as a anvil....
It was funny then, but all week my pain has moved into my lower back and makes it hard to sit down, still haven't seen the doctor about it and trying to work thru it and/or rest. So basically, I have to stand all day. As far as the new used engine in the truck, runs great, initially it had some intake thermostat gasket water leaks, and needed some new vacuum hose to the air cleaner. Broken new positve battery cable was replaced. Starts right up and idles great.... After 1955 Willys Jeep CJ-5 gets finished with the clutch and brakes install then I will be able to tear into the old engine on the stand and get some parts. I need to get a new USED in good shape, Aluminum Timing Chain / Oil Pump Timing Cover for my 350v8 Buick engine. Thanks, Mac ou:
Holy Thread Resurrection, Batman! Hey Mac, time for an update. How's your back doing? BTDT, got the chiro appointments to show for it. Did you find a timing cover? And what did you do about your distributor?
Well sorry about the late posting, my back is fine, but my neck is screwed up C6 & C7 is messing with my nerves in the left shoulder blade to the elbow tip, drugs every 6 hours, lost half my left arm strength due to the pinched nerve in my cervical spine area. Been going to Physical Therapy and will be seeing the Orthopedic doctor in November, Chiropractor care isn't covered in my health plan, I could get Chiropratic care through the VA, but haven't gone down that road yet. So anyway, the junkyard Buick 350v8 is a rod knocking engine at startup and at higher speeds in my J-3000 Gladiator, so I haven't worked on my original engine yet, because of my back pain. My CJ-5 is also on hold with clutch linkage work, SBC engine has been removed for access to the early CJ-5 frame mounted brakes and close linkage for the clutch. Also I have a few extra old timing covers in my spare parts pile, that I haven't inspected yet. I will try to keep in touch, Thanks, Mac
