X2. Anytime you remove the timing cover, you can potentially lose the oil pump prime. Run the oil pump with an electric drill until you get oil pressure. You can do that with the distributor removed very easily. You can make a tool to drive the pump out of an appropriately sized screwdriver and socket, or an old distributor. They do sell a tool meant for that purpose. https://www.summitracing.com/search...Default&SortOrder=Ascending&autoview=SKU&ar=1 When you get pressure, you'll see it on the gauge, and you will feel a big drag on the drill. That's as far as you need to go. Install the distributor and fire it up.
Sunday here so cant get hold of a straightedge though cant imagine itd be warped from the two inner pan bolts if anything the pan would be slighly bent. @LARRY70GS the bottom cork pan gasket piece, do I trim the old one back square with the corner , or leave a bit of the old sticking out (see pic) I see potential for a leak in this area if its not 100% right. New water pump should get here on the tenth. Also do you think the corrosion warrants JB Weld, or could gasket silicon fill those minor voids?
Yea if it was pan bolts holding it up your fine, if it would have been the two behind the balancer then I'd be more concerned. On the gasket cut it flush with a razor, then clean the gasket surfaces with brake clean or equivalent then put a small bead in the corner then thin film on pan lip, lay cork in place and then another small bead in the corner. I put thin film of black rtv on both surfaces always have and always will some guys get all out of whack about this sealer or that sealer and not to use it In Conjunction with a gasket,...but my engines dont leak and in taken apart plenty that pissed like a hose that were gaskets only
I as well use a skim coat on the new pan front gasket. I the old gasket straight down then actually cut a little at an angle back. I feel it leaves a little more room for the new gasket to squish and the rtv to move into.
Ok...will do,..and what do you think of the pitting? I really expected worse and was surprised the bolts didnt cause me any drama. Well the engine was rebuilt in 2011 and its only covered 7000 miles since. Actually the bolts werent very tight at all. To JB Weld or not ?
Looks fine to me I'd seal both sides and put it back together, if the bolts were loose which is common especially if tightened to the listed tq spec, which just isn't enough imo, I go by feel. If you do the 18ftlb or whatever it calls for let it set overnight then retorque them and then fire it up and go
I always fit my cover sealing in the little v corner under the dist. normally it's a small huddle of oil.......this time it was coolant. had no clue it was there till I pulled the dist. mine is the msd with very large mag cap. I will have to check everything over seeing this is z brand new cover......no evidence of it leaking down from above........I normally put a skim coat across the arch in the top on both sides of the gasket as well
Good advice above Oz. That front part of the oil pan is tough to seal for sure especially when replacing the cover. I have heard of some guys using weatherstrip adhesive (a.k.a. gorilla snot ) in that application with good success. I like gasket shellac myself even though it's tougher to clean off if you take it apart. https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-205...G6/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid={creative}&hvpos={adposition}&hvnetw=o&hvrand={random}&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl={devicemodel}&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583932699546844&psc=1
Well half done.. Still waiting on water pump probs thurs. Thought Id get the timing cover fitted anyway got it all sealed and set up. Slid it into place then it occured to me a lot of the bolts go through the water pump!...duhhh Ok so grabbed the old pump and bolted it up, ...When the pump arrives Ill undo the respective ones I need to and leave the timing cover in place. Hope that works ok, and also hope I havent created worse oil and coolant leaks....only time will tell. Ok now what torque on the balancer bolt and how do I do it?
200 ftlb minimum for balancer bolt. Rotate the crank to almost TDC then spool a bunch of nylon rope into cylinder 1 through the spark plug hole making sure to leave some sticking out then rotate the crank until it "stops" then you should be able to tighten the bolt to spec. Once done rotate crank in opposite direction, pull out rope and install spark plug and you're good to go.
you should be ok to remove those 4 bolts when swapping pump. think how many times a water gas ever been changed and the timing cover gssket never bothered
Ok, water pump arrived early! So spent the rest of the arvo and evening up till now 10pm putting things back together. Nylon rope trick worked, mechanic a few sheds down from mine nearly had kittens when I told him what I was gonna do, he offered hit rattle gun, but thatd be totally unknown torque. My wrench only goes to 150ftlbs so I took it to that then got a breaker bar and slipped a metre of pipe over it and cranked on it some more, had to be 200. Just got all the belts tensioned and fitted the fan and shroud, no washers under the fan nuts...that sound right? Just having a feed of chips before I put the coolant back in and fire her up. Yeah primed the oil pump, sacrificed one of my screwdrivers by cutting the handle off to make an oil pump priming tool and whizzed it up with my electric drill. Didnt need to take the radiator out neither so that saved me some work. Ill know soon when I fire her up if my mission has been successful.
yay!..All Good!...nicely sealed up, good oil pressure and good coolant temps....running sweet to boot! fired her up a bit after midnight Coolant leak!...coming from the heater hose, the spring clip they use not holding , adding a worm drive hose clamp fixed it. Test drive time;.....Beautiful!...just got home 1.30am , checked under the hood...All Good! Thanks fellas..
You DID check whether the timing chain has too much slack? After doing it once, id never go in there without checking anything and everything. Oh I now see it's all been resolved.
Timing chain slack I put up a pic earlier and asked about it. Theres some slack but only on the return side, engine was rebuilt in 2011 and has only done around 7000 miles since. Yes its a real mission going in there alright. Im so glad its worked out as I had my doubts about a few areas.
