Sometimes that right stuff can be very hard to get off. Used it on a tray pan once and had to get a blade in there and cut it off, but it didn't leak
Gasgacinch is fabulous. Doesn't have to be in an Edelbrock-branded can.. Does almost everything Hylomar does, at 1/10 the price. In my garage, RTV silicone is used only on gasket seams, or where a rubber seal and a gasket meet. I sometimes use it INSTEAD of a gasket. Sealing gaskets is best left to gasket sealers, any one of twenty brands will be just fine. RTV silicone is more of a "gasket REPLACER" than a "gasket sealer".
Here what I do, I put a light coat of RTV on each side of the gasket, and where the pan meets the timing cover I put a nice bead in each corner, and on the long bolts I give them a very generous coating down the entire length of the bolts.
...specifically, Loctite/Permatex 592. Note that they must have quit paying royalties to DuPont, as they're no longer using the trade name "Teflon" any more. Now they're using the generic term "PTFE". 592 is sold at many auto-parts stores, or Amazon. It's slow-curing so bolts can be re-torqued hours later if you're so inclined. Very effective at sealing pipe thread, or bolt threads. 565 and 567 are similar products. Can't really go wrong with any of them, but 592 is less expensive and easier to find locally. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AAJTYS/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I21CW0NZ8RUUAU&colid=2VLYZKC3HBBDO&psc=1 For the record, the inexpensive brush-cap tub of Teflon/PTFE sealer such as Permatex 80632 has given me problems (leaks) when used on pipe thread. I don't trust it on threaded fasteners like I trust the 592.
This stuff works great for sealing bolts that go into cooling passages; http://www.qualitydist.net/per-80016.html "Slow-drying, non-hardening sealant designed for sealing cut gaskets and stamped parts. Allows for easy disassembly if required. Temperature range -65°F to 400°F (-54°C to 204°C); resists common shop fluids and fuels. Use where sealing is more important than adhesion." I have used this stuff on all sbc head bolts that go into coolant, works flawlessly and is like lube on threads when wet. I like to use ARP thread lube under bolt head as well.
I've had some gaskets from all manufactures be a tiny touch long. When I dry fit them especially if the pan is already in place, the gasket tends to pucker up right on the corner, I trim the little 1/8" off and use the same amount of rtv mentioned b4. I like to fill the corner where the block and pan meet, put gasket on, then put a little bead above the gasket in the same corners, then once the cover is tight I smooth out the little bit the squeezes out to make an external seal on that 3 way corner.
Don't forget to apply thread sealer of choice to the threads of the rearward bolt of the fuel pump or block-off plate. Many folks don't realize that this bolt hole passes all the way through the timing cover and is exposed to oil being flung from the timing chain, ..... which can result in oil seeping much like the early gen SBC intake bolt holes. Larry
IMO, and I’ve said it before, using a small amount of the Right Stuff (small caulk gun cartridge) on both sides of cork and paper gaskets really helps with sealing. Don’t go crazy! No sealer on oil pump cover gaskets or transmission pan gasket! I prefer the gray to the black. I wished we had the options we have today 30 years ago, I would have had fewer come-backs ( I did heavy engine work for a living for a long time). Much better sealers are available today. The old “tried and true” stuff can’t hold a candle to the newer generation of sealers.
