When you adjust the initial with a timing light and set it TDC in "Park" vacuum advance disconnected. Then check it in "D" at 550 rpm and initial still looks correct. Is that OK or do you have to adjust still in "D" ONLY? Thanks.
With the vacuum line disconnected the distributor doesn't know what the transmission is doing. The only thing that matters is RPM.
I prefer to look at total advance. I set timing to 32-35deg BTDC with the engine at 2500 RPM (vac disconnected) and let initial advance fall where it may.
The ONLY reason they specify that is because they want the least chance that there is ANY mechanical advance in AT ALL. The initial advance is just that, INITIAL, WITHOUT ANY mechanical or vacuum advance added. The higher the idle speed, the more chance there is that the weights will move out a bit. That is a common problem when you use springs that are very light to speed the advance.
Thanks, and yes i know what you are talking about. But i am still going with the stock set-up without complains.
I have a black 97 Riv SC, tan interior 120kmiles runs great no drag car beautiful road car especially in the mountains. car has a 115mph fuel shut off. motor comes back on at 95mph. send me a pic of your Riv.kenny462
Runnig factory stock, distributor, springs, vacuum unit etc...all stock. Now instead of having the initial at TDC i have it set on 2 BTDC...it feels a bit better at part throttle and low rpm's take off. Is this adjustment ok to drive or could it cause a little popping in the exhaust pipe at idle? (Remember no power timing or anything just stock).
As long as it doesn't ping, you are OK. The stock 1969 430 distributor is 1111335. It had between 30* and 34* of mechanical advance. Due to manufacturing tolerances of the day, your distributor could be anywhere in that range. That is why my advice is to set the total advance. Once you set it, you know what it is, and the initial timing ends up where it has to be. Say your particular distributor had only 30* of mechanical advance. If you set the total advance to 34*, your initial timing would end up at 4* BTDC. All you need to do this is a set of light springs and a timing light. Might take you 10 minutes.
Thanks. I might do that in time. But the Popping (i don't mean ping) sometimes when you listen to the exhaust at idle it shows up...this popping is the same as when there is a vacuum leak for instance. I guess this has nothing to do with the initial timing right?
I don't know what that is. You describe it as popping, unless it is misfiring, I wouldn't worry about something like that. Might be nothing, I'd have to hear it.
Yes....I thought i would adjust it back to TDC and see what happens with the cough but it accelerates really terrific...thanks again Larry.
