Bill, clearance checking is somewhat explained in this thread. For more specifics you will need to do some reading or have someone you trust to do so. In most stock apps. there shouldn't be any problems, but you need to check just to be sure. I'm hoping around the June or July time frame. I've already started the process with a 5K deposit. It's just a matter of getting enough required deposits & scheduling of machine time for this to happen. The deposit is $450.00 which is about 1/2 the projected cost.
well, last monday i drove the approx 500 miles (1000 mile round-trip) to San Diego, CA from my home in South Lake Tahoe, CA on highway 395 and drove many miles around San Diego and Escondido (was staying in escondido and traveling the 60mile round trip to san diego every day) and drove back to Tahoe on friday... my fuel mileage going down south on monday averaged about 20mpg (a bit of down-hill on the way), in and around San Diego and to and from escondido, with VERY inconsistant driving i managed an average of 16mpg (with quite a bit of full throttle romps:3gears: ) and on the way home, going mainly up-hill (including numerous 7000+ft mountain passes and a 8100ft mountain pass) i averaged 15mpg with a heavy right foot, anxious to get home... i must say, that at sea level (i live at 6,500 ft elevation) this thing ROCKS.. punching it from a standstill (no loading the torque converter) there's no tirespin, until it starts rolling about 5mph, then she breaks loose.. GREAT FUN! guy in his new mercedes had alot to explain to his girl:bla: couldn't load the torque converter even just a little bit without her breaking loose only issue the entire time was my starter got heat-soaked at a gas station in the middle of the california desert and wouldn't start for a little bit.. i'll be getting a Telesco mini starter in the future... wes
Cool deal Wes. Anyhow, I finally got my trans straightened out tonight. Now all gears are working as they should. I took it out around the block and what a difference...now that the tranny isn't slipping you can really feel the car move out. Hopefully later this year I can get some chassis dyno time to compare the old rockers and Tom's roller tip. I know there is going to be a difference, but it might be nice to have an actual number. Anyhow, I am happy for now... Thanks Tom.
Hi guy's, I want to add some add'l info here. 1-Before you install the roller rocker's, purchase 2 new shafts, it makes no sense mounting the new rockers on the old shafts. I would NOT use the original shafts on a "bone-stock" rebuild! 2-After you've measured all the components for "fit" and you know the pushrod lengths are good, I strongly recommend having a set of new ones made up. They will be much stronger than the OEM's. The pushrods can be made by "Smith Brothers" in Bend, OR. They recently did a set for us here. I am not certain about the diameters, you would have to call. I used the .312" ones with no issues, BUT, it was all checked on disassembled unit. They may be able to supply some .250" diameters. They did have the correct ends (balls) on our .312"s. We've recently "discovered" 25 measureable HP on a SB Chevy in the dyno room! Went from .375" O.D. to .437" O.D. and picked up power. Thanks, Gary in N.Y. P.S. One more "tip" here, I've had a few questions about "rod-overlap" pertaining to "strokers". Without getting too technical here I'll clear it up some. On a "stock" crank that's getting an "upstroke" by making the rod journals smaller and substituting a different rod, you have nothing to worry about due to the fact you can only achieve a certain amount of increase. This will make using the "rod-overlap" formula a non-issue here. It will not hurt the unit!! We rely on this formula when choosing a 400" SB to determine whether we need a 350" SB main journal OR a 400" SB main journal. For example, we would choose a 400" main for a unit getting a 4.000" stroke or a 350" main for a 3.750" stroke. Much depends on the rod journal's as well, since we've started used a number of "Honda" rod journals in the SB's. It gets confusing sometimes. Anyway the formula is as follows: [Main Journal Dia. (plus) Rod Journal Dia. (minus) Stroke] (divided by) 2 = the journal (rod) overlap percentage dimension! (Add) The above statement should have read "journal" overlap NOT "rod" overlap. Typed incorrectly! Sorry For a stock Nailhead it would "read": (2.498" + 2.249" - 3.640") / 2 = 55% Overlap. A 454" BB would be: (2.749" + 2.199" - 4.000") / 2 = 47.4% A 400" SB would be: (2.649" + 2.100" - 3.750") / 2 = 49.9%
Gary, you lost me. What is the significance of this calculation? What is the "ideal" number? Do you want it big or small, is there a limit where you get in trouble? It doesn't result in a percentage, it's a length isn't it? If you picture the crank at TDC, this is the distance from the top of the main journal to the bottom of the rod journal. Inquiring minds ....
Took my first long highway trip down to Yardley's picnic this Saturday. I really didn't get into the throttle much. Cruised down at about and average of 70 Mph 140 miles from my house to his. The Riviera clocked an astounding 15.34 MPG. (Yeah, Tom that was even after the burnout in yard's driveway) :TU: :3gears: If you are looking for performance on your Nail and don't install these rockers-I don't know what to tell you but --->ou:
WOW. Is all I can say after an hour on the tele with Tom just now! Jeeze guys, this man knows nailhead stuff! So much in fact, I am sending in my deposit for a set of rollers and shafts! FYI, three years ago, I bought a 65 GS 4 speed Convertible, loaded with tons of rare goodies. . .console/tach, power windows, power bucket seat, tilt, A/C, posi and more., however, the original motor was destroyed a long time ago. Some idiot dropped in a 300 2v 2 speed trans. . .never hooked it all up, just sitting in the hole where the 401 SHOULD be! I have since acquired a 40K original miles Rivi LX code 425, 2X4 package with ribbed valve covers, factory air cleaner, all A/C bracketry etc. . .and I bought a complete 65 4 speed setup, including every part/piece of the manual setup from a fello I met at the GS Nats two years ago. . . .WoooHooo! this car will be going into a complete frame off next spring. In My Garage! I will say it is exciting to read about all the techno stuff that Tom and others have offered to make these Nailheads SING!! Yeeahhh Babbby! :3gears: Can't wait!!! Wheelz, Tampa Bay :beer
Cool Wheelz! Look foward to seeing a blow by blow depiction of the frame off resto. You need to start a new thread for it and keep it updated with lots 'o pics. :TU: :beers2:
Will DO! BTW, and I KNOW this is prolly NOT the best place to ask this, but anyone know the correct code for 1965 GS 14X6 rallye wheels? o No: I have acquired quite a few sets, some were on the car, some otherwise..and all have a few different codes...I really want to restore only the correct wheels! ThanX! :beer :beers2: :beer Wheelz, Tampa Bay
I was finally able to get the car out of the garage and tear the headliner out of it. The mice totally destroyed it this winter. I actually had a mouse sitting on the drivers door window sill looking at me last time I took the car around the block. Well, the headliner is out, the mouse/mice nests and droppings are all cleaned up, and I washed two years of dust and grime off the outside. I think I should be able to actually get some seat time in this thing this week. So far I have only taken it around the block 2-3 times. I had planned on taking it for a cruise today but threats of heavy rain kept the car in the garage and we took the wifes 54 Chevy-it has wipers and does not have slicks. ANyhow, I will keep all of you posted on how it runs as I get a few miles on it.
I would like some info (ie phone or email contact) so I can hook up with tom and get set of these rollers. I have been looking at cams for a while and isky can regrind an existing cam but without adjustable rockers they will have clearance problems. This sounds like a much better way to get the job done.
You can send Tom a pm (privatemessage through this board) by clicking on his username "telriv" at the top of one of his replies. I would recommend talking to him about cams before you have one reground or buy one. It may save you quite some time and money. His rockers usually will do what you would expect from a cam 'upgrade'.
Just an update, I have been drving the 55 back and forth to work for the past few days, the car is running very well. This includes some bumper to bumper, and highway speed driving as well as back road miles also. I have not had a chance to get to a good clear straight stretch of road yet though. Seems to run very well with the rockers and other mods.
Hi all I wanted to give an update on my Riviera: It's been about 6 months with Tom's Roller Rockers and the car is running great. We put a Dual Qaud on and it is running rich (will fix soon) I average 14.5 - 15 MPG unless I am beating on it, I am sure it will get better when we jet the carbs correctly. Last night I put an electric fan on, taking the old belt driven fan off. I let the car idle in the d'way for 20 minutes after it reached 180*. The gauge didn't move. When I had the belt driven fan It would be 215-220*. Worked out very well. It was about 85* high humidity when I did the test so I think this was a winner. (16" fan from Jegs $85.00, $40.00 for relay/temp sensor wiring harness- free shipping) I also purchased a G-Tech accelerometer off e-bay very cheap. I think it works very good. I did 5 runs and averaged 14.9 quater times at 94 MPH. RW HP was showing a peak of 250. I am sure this is not perfect but real close. I purchased a 63 Parts car for my Riv that had a 401 in it. I have a line on a 66 lark with a 340 in it which I plan to put the 401 in with a 4 spd. Of course Toms rockers will be on the Gessler ported heads. Will keep you'all posted :TU: P.S. - Still waiting to win lotto to finance all of this!! :laugh:
Last night I was fitting the Telesco's on my MR code 401 to check the valve to piston clearence with the W-30 cam. Looking good, cam timing looked good so far. I'll get some pictures tonight. Ted
