I just took out the 2004r and lockup. Got fed up of the yearly rebuilds, and they were not light on the wallet.:rant:
Going on 4-years with mine from Performance Trans in Sacramento. We had some teething problems, but got them worked out. Get the deep pan with rear-suction. It's all in the builder...there are a few real good 200-4R builders out there. as norbs said, a good one (and maybe not-so-good one) ain't cheap! GV TH400 is the best low-cost durable approach for an O/D. Especially for a heavy car like a 'cat...
I wasn't putting that much power through them enough to run 134 mph in a 3700 car driver included. I think it was the case of a poor builder up here in Canada, they just don't know how to build them to last i think. I went for a road test with my car, and i must say the sp is very tight down low on low stall and high stall it revs real loose like its supposed to. It would not be to street friendly in high stall all the time, but it really multiplies the torque wow
Norbs, Core cost if I provide a core is $600. Rebuild it $1400 for electronic function, or $1500 for full manual VB. This includes a 34 element sprag, dual fed direct clutches, etc. Good to 800 HP. If you are over 800 HP you need a billet input shaft because the stock ones break where they go into the OD carrier. I also recommend the Super Drum with the big 36 element sprag. A 4L80E is NOT as heavy as many claim. It is laughable to see the weight figures quoted on various forums. A complete unit, dry, without converter weighs 173 lbs. For comparison, a TH400 weight 135, and a TH350 weighs 125. A GV unit weighs slightly over 40 lbs, so a Th400 and GV weighs about the same as a 4L80E. I finished another 4L80E today. The one pictured was a full manual VB, the one I finished today will be using a controller.
4L80's come stock with a lockup converter. They can be setup using the lockup converter with the full manual VB or using a N/L. I always use the lockup converters. (No reason to give it up). Hughes offers a 3000 stall for about $700. PI or Yank can also build a multi-disc unit for ~$1000. I can get mild (2200-2500) re-stalled stock converters for about $450.
I have been very happy with my Hughes Converter. There Tech Support outstading at helping you figure things out. Dan
Yep, I talk back and forth with one of the lead trans guys at Hughes often and they make good stuff and are good to deal with.
I'm surprised there's been so little on here about the 2004r. Doesn't the lock-up converter give you about the same thing as the SP? I've got one torn down on the bench right now that I plan to use behind a 340 in a 2500 lb car, if I get 400 hp out of the 340 it will be pretty over the top. Looks to me like there's not that much needs to be done to beef it up and since it isn't a drag car a real high stall isn't going to be a big advantage. I'm thinking something around 2400 may be just fine, with full throttle I don't think it'll be staying there very long. Gearing right now is 3.9 with 24" tires but I expect to go to something like a 3.54 or 3.31 within the next year or two, maybe as low as 3.08. It needs to be comfortable cruising and it needs exceptional throttle response. I'm mostly worried about the shift properties. I'd like full manual control but I'm afraid that part throttle shifts would be harsh and that doesn't work at all. Jim
I have been dreaming of a PAE SP 400 for all my cars. But I drive them and race them. What stall would you guys think i should run in a basic 1970 455 3800 pound car the 3000 or 4000 sp i shift at about 5300 rpm's.
