Here is the application: Moog 5230 and 6204 fit 1964-1972 A body The 6204 is full factory ride height and will assure great lift on launch. The 5230 is at least 1/2" lower. Just a hair less lift at launch. With a 450 HP+ eng and loose front end, you would probably be yanking the front end enough to not matter which spring you have.
Thanks a lot Gary.:TU: :bglasses: Without your several postings on this subject, I would still be banging my head against the wall. o No: :spank: :blast: ou: uzzled: Hopefully, I will be able to test out the changes soon. :Brow: ray:
Gary, Have you took some measurements of the different springs new (before install) and used (after a time) to see the differences? Like what I did for the rear. _____________________________________________________ Old springs (Moog 5385) Been on the car since 2000 and measured: 12 1/4 " tall free right and 12 3/8" tall free left. wire diameter 0.585" _______________________________________________________ New Moog 5379 14 3/8 " hight both wire diameter 0.560" After they have been on for a month, I will remove them to see if the new springs height changes. Or should I wait longer?
Took the car around the block to see the changes. Made two changes so I am not sure it was the spring change, but that helped things. Now there is rubber on the quarter panels and the car is much better to drive. Two thumbs up for the Moog 5379 spring change.
The only measurement I did as a follow up was to check the drop from the point of my front bumper. It dropped 1/4" in less than a year and about 200 miles driving on new 6204 front springs. Glad to hear from you guys, and looking foreward to some reports on traction improvements, or 60 ft times.
13.2 at 101 1.87 60 ft. at about 3200 da 373s 2500ish stall moroso rear trick springs edelbrock lowers stock uppers gas shocks front and back 28 10 15 hoosiers v6 springs on front no travel limiters. new bushings and ball joints no sway bar up front. any improvements to speak of?
Lookin' good for a small cam. Try shifting out of low at 4500-4800 and second at 5000-5300. Might look into fine tuning the Q-jet and distributor curve. There may be a little more there. I think the low rpm 1-2 shift may really help as some guys have improved 1-2 tenths with mild cams with this experiment. Try lower stalls on launch to ram higher rpm's out of the converter at the line. Have fun 462...!
kinda scared to recurve dist. heard stories that the roll pin for the gear is offset on the shaft. have to take whole dist apart to do it. its a mallory 42. what kind of tuning to do with the qjet? secondary rods is the only thing i know how to change. wanted to try just off idle launch but was afraid of a bog since i put the headers on the day before and its not as smooth as with the manifolds off idle. ill try short shifting. maybe i can get my 12.9 slip next weekend
For best performance and to save your engine from damage, I would get them both tuned right. * The distributor needs about 20 degrees mechanical advance and some way to control the maximum advance at wide open throttle. About 14 at idle and 34 max at 3000 rpm is a good start. Vacuum advance unplugged for testing of course. * The carb is likely lean, at least during idle and cruise. I would send it to Cliff http://www.cliffshighperformance.com/ Sounds like your carb has other issues also, such as accelerator pump, primary jet rod combo, apt setting, etc. * Another thing to consider is fuel supply. Remove the sock/strainer from the pickup tube in the tank, make sure you have a 3/8" line or bigger, fuel tank vents are not rusted or plugged by dirt dobbers, good fuel pump, no kinks or rust in the lines etc. Proper fuel pressure and volume, under full power, is the goal here. The above items could mean a full half second of performance gain or even MORE!
8 gal fuel cell 8an push lock holley blue w regulater 6psi. carb was super smooth w manifolds. dist has 14 mech advance with 20 initial at 2800ish vac unhooked. carb was recently built to stg 1 specs . might need to tune on it. i should really get cliffs book. i like doing most of my work. if i go with a bigger cam i might be forced to go to a holley.
Wow, looks like you have a good setup. There is some power eluding you.... A Holley carb may not be he answer unless there is a problem with the Q-jet. My guess is the Q-jet needs a little recipe tuning. Cliffs book & his parts kit can help you find/fix any Q-jet problems. I remember a Buick guy telling me he reset his lifter preload and picked up several tenths in the 1/4 mi! Some unexpected problems are hard to find. I do think you have some hidden power there somewhere.
the carb works so flawless i hate to mess with it. holleys just so simple. and im guilty, i need adj. pushrods some of my valves are less than optimally set. may do docs dual plane mod and get a rear sway bar. but first i gotta get some stuff fromd mike g. grinding is kinda scary right now since i drilled a hole in my finger the size of my thumb. note. never drill through a metal composite gasket and hold it with your hand. it will grab the bit and twist your finger up with it
I just want to post, for the record, that the best investment I have made for better traction off the line was a new converter. With the stock 2,200 stall D5 converter I couldn't hook it up at all on street tires so I bought a set of drag radials, which was a big improvement but a PITA to have to change them everytime I went to the track, and even then I could spin them if the track wasn't good that particularly day. I recently switched to a 10" 2,800 stall and went to the track with the drag radials and it hooked so well it almost scared me the first time. I also blew the rearend on the 4th pass The next time I went back with just the street tires and it hooked up great and the 60ft times were the same as with the drag radials. I wish I'd changed the converter years ago.
Appearantly, the higher stall gave you better traction by raising the front end enough to plant the tires. Good converters and soft springs can make a great combination. Extra front end lift can do wonders.
