trouble matching stratomist blue

Alright guys, so the shop I work at we use sikkens paint, and they don't have a code for 26 stratomist blue (wa4069), I've made the color as close as I can, But I want perfect if possible. So just wondering what brand you guys have used and what your experience with matching is. Any help is appreciated thanks

 

I would use Nason Ful-Base if you are using Base/clear , or Nason Ful-Thane if you want single stage. Both Dupont products. Most paint companies dropped the older formulas.

 

I looked it up a bit and it sounds like that they're solvent based paints which is hard to get locally. Everything here is switching to waterborne paints, but I'll see what I can find. Has anyone sprayed ppg? I know they have a code, and that's a brand we have locally too

 

I would try Glasurit 90 Line if you can only get waterborne in your area. Their 55 Line solvent b/c seems like a good match for Stratomist.
The nice thing with BASF (Glasurit & R-M) paint is they have formulations for all the old colors in b/c.
A couple years ago I got some PPG DBC b/c mixed for that color, and it was not a horrible match. But when I compared the sprayout to some original color on my car, I remember it was a little too green. I'm not crazy about DBC, and it's expensive on top of it.

 

I would try the PPG. I have found all of their colors to be dead on. If you watch the show Graveyard cars the PPG is what they use for all the Mopar colors. We know how picky those guys are on those high dollar cars. You can give PPG dealer the code from 1971 and they will have it. My paint guy used the PPG Deltron 2000

 

http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?manuf=&model=Buick&year=1970

HTH

 

Alright thanks guys. I'm probably gonna start with ppg in a couple weeks since another supplier in town has ppg for there paint, and I'll see how it compares to my sikkens color.

 

No paint is gonna match without tinting, if youve got a healthy area of paint to go off of like trunk jamb or behind the fender on the cowl use it as top.surfaces will be faded a lighter hue especially on a light blue like Stratomist, I use PPG on my high end jobs, last Strato Car I sprayed was to dark and to coarse straight off the machine so I substituted the coarse silver for a medium coarse and added a little white and extra silver to lighten it.if its too green but otherwise good just add a little red to kill the green.

 

It's just a major pita to use another brand that you don't have in your shop and have to mess with tinting it. I'm sure the PPG would match good enough for a complete as nobody is going to have anything to compare it to anyways.
We've used the R-M system for 22 years plus, switched from PPG to it when we were having issues with the paint on my frame off '70 Chevelle.

 

yea im going off of my trunk jam/behind the quarter extenstions for my color matching since it has a nice bend to check the flop, ive tinted as best as possible, metallics are good and 4 out of the 5 major angles look really good. its just the one angle where youd be looking perpendicular to the sun. i'll post some pictures for you guys.

 

alright guys, these are different angles of the same spray out. the first four are all in sunlight, cause thats where it matters, the 5th is in shop lighting and 6 and 7 are the angles where it starts to look a little off. or is it a common problem due the extreme flop? thanks for the help guys

 

I Never considered this a light blue. The GM generic name for this paint was Bright Blue, Olds called it Viking blue.

 

Some transparent black will darken the flop which is what it appears to need but from a pic its only a guess, also that jamb is pretty rough, polish up a spot on the cowl and try it there, and it is an all over so you obviously have
Wiggle room on the color , but no sense in not trying to.match it best you can. Also spray it over a light gray sealer and a dark grey and see if one are the other alters the flop . The Dark grey will help tone it down

 

Our spray out cards have black and white both and im not a huge believer in having different color primer/sealer to change a color cause to me if you have 100% coverage it doesn't need it (plus we have coloured primer so I want blue for stone chip reasons) and if you don't use 100% coverage then it's tough to match if you ever need a repair. But I agree that transparent black would help that part of the flop, might try it next time I do a spray out, and just hope it doesn't affect everything else too much lol. But my cowl area seems to be quite a bit lighter (more metalics) so i didn't wanna go off of that cause I wasn't sure whether or not thats got less coverage since its and inner or what, so I chose the back there since I could pick off the paint that was there to find un scuffed factory stuff. But thanks for your input. This color just has a big color change on the flop makes it a tough one to duplicate. Especially when you have to create it off of only a color map book and waterborne paint. but im off to school to get my next apprenticeship level and they have ppg there, and ppg has a code, so I'm gonna spray it out just so I know. Both paints are great and I'd be happy to spray either on my car, just want as close as possible Sorry about the paragraph guys. Bit of a spiel

 

It depends on the paint line , and the color as to how much binder is in it, I paint every day on every car imaginable, in a NON force dry booth. So I understand your goal, its my daily routine unfortunately, ha. I would MUCH rather do all overs on muscle cars than spend hrs matching 4q2 on a Toyota. I use a Kerosene Heater to create my spray environment which of course adds to the fun, ha. But some colors no matter the amount of coats will allow bottom color to affect the top. My Hugger Orange car is over Black Sealer and has probably 6 to 10 coats of base on it, and its much darker than if it was over a white or grey sealer. Only reason its over black is I was anxious to spray some parts I had ready one Saturday and all I had was Dp90, even tho I knew it was gonna be pita to cover I done it anyway. If you have to look through a RM color map its the best variant deck I've ever used , may be easier to pick a blue that has less flop and tint it. Then again once you mix some PPG it may be just what you're looking for, good luck

 

Haha sounds like we deal with similar problems as far as paint production. We also only have a cross draft booth for now, and on days it's humid the waterborne doesn't dry at all, and in our manitoba winters, it wants to suck all the cold air in from any crack in the shop, so we use a propane heater to keep it warm so it'll dry. But we're moving to a new shop hopefully this year, and that will change once we get a down draft with air makeup unit. But yea I know what you mean some colors are rediculous how transparent they are, yellow colors from my experiences are the worst for that. Luckily for me it's just 3 coats for coverage, and then Just a drop coat over top

 

I think the solvent borne PPG b/c has white pearl in that color. Either that or something like DX 820 ? Flop enhancer. I don't care for the flop that pearl gives, and the original color definitely didn't have pearl in it.
The Glasurit 55 line b/c I thought was a better match than PPG DBC b/c back a couple years ago when I was messing with it.
There are times when PPG matches good on newer colors, but I don't think they really care how their matches are on old car colors. They probably figure everybody is painting old cars complete, so no big deal.

 

Tanger57 I will spray out a panel for you with Nexa PPG ( ICI ) PM your address. I will send you panel. It's solvent. I think Nexa matches better than PPG . I'm willing to take the Pepsi Challenge! iIf it's DBO ! I'll ship it to you

 

I have Sikkens , Nexa ,and Spies Hecker (water borne). I will sell paint at wholesale. No mark up.

 

Hey Tanger57. Don't knock old cross flows Water borne likes them Big a Time ! Have you noticed that Spraying Water everything you know about solvent you do the opposite with water. crazy! waterborne drys different. are you doing a total reprint on that car?