Background: Just installed a new Ron Francis 24/7 wiring harness. Replaced the front turn signal sockets with new sockets (not just the spring and pins), extra ground from the socket to the grounding backbone, Super-Brite LED 1157 amber bulbs, new headlight switch, rear tail lights are Digi-Tails full panel replacement LED lights. What works: Headlights work fine; front marker lights work fine; rear tail lights work fine; rear brake lights work fine What doesn't work: turn signals... If I engage a turn signal, both the front and rear lights on that side light up but do not blink. Both the left and right side does this. What I've tried: three different LED rated flashers, swapping the flasher fuse and relay, no changes What I need: Any hints on where to start troubleshooting next?
This is the flasher I use. I got it from "SuperbriteLEDs" and it has "clicking". That requires a ground as it has three blades, two hit the normal flasher terminals, and I added a ground wire using a female spade. (it fits in the corner "cutout" on the upper right of the block) Hope that helps. (1964 Skylark, so the fuse block is near identical to the '65)
TrunkMonkey and GSX455-4Ever hit the nail on the head. Swapped the polarity of the flasher with a couple of jumper wires and things work fine now. I have a disk type polarity changer coming from Amazon that will clean up the installation. With the exception of the dash lights, every light, socket, wire, switch and the fuse panel have been replaced with new parts from Ron Francis. I also used the Ron Francis grounding kit with a couple of my own modifications. There is a 10 ga ground wire that runs from the engine compartment to the trunk with junction blocks in the engine compartment, under the dash and in the trunk. Lots of new grounds from the lights, top pump, gauges, etc to this grounding backbone as well as cleaning and restoring to the extent possible all of the stock grounds. New braided cable from the engine compartment grounding block to the engine block and then to the frame and from the frame to the body. Lots of extra circuits and a couple of extra relays for the electric fuel pump, electric fans, etc. for when the engine swap happens. The electric windows and the top now operate noticeably faster. Now to put the interior back together... Thanks for all of the replies and help.
TrunkMonkey was first on it . But its good to see you solved it . And nice to let us know its solved .
