OK, see the interest here. Hopefully this summer I am finally going to get the TSP test car going. I bought the thing back in 2005, but never had a chance to do anything with it. It's a real "little old lady from Pasadena" car, totally rust free.. I have the protecto plate for it with her Pasadena, CA address on it. AC car, Red/Black/Black, that the second owner cloned with a couple emblems/grill to be a GS 455. I also have a hood for it. Earlier this year I ran into a guy who was looking for a VP converter, and we are getting real close to being able to rebuild those again here. He mentioned he had a 70 455 with 60K miles on it, and that is exactly what I have been looking for to start the test car program. Low mileage 70 455's are like hen's teeth, I have been looking for one for a few years now. Not worth more than core price to most folks, but I have a unique use for it. I want to do kind of a Kenne-bell type progression buildup, but maybe a little more realistic. So I needed the stock 70 motor to start with. Did not want to rebuild something, because then it's not stock. Over a period of years I want go from a high-13 low 14 second car, to a 10 second street terror, yet retain all the driveablity and manners that these cars are known for.. And the AC.. And we will document together that whole program. Scientifically this time, with all ET/MPH corrected to sea level and standard conditions. Our first projects will actually be traction related, because if the car spins, your numbers are junk. Hopefully that motor is as advertised, and I can get ahold of it, and begin the test car program. I have a 700-R4 on the shelf, that I rebuilt for my Dad's suburban many years ago. As far as the TV cable stuff goes, it will be the same as a 200, and I will definitely throw that in the car at some point, and develop the procedures and parts to make this OD swap much simpler than it is now. When I did that first OD swap in about 07, the TV stuff was the number one pain in the butt, so I came up with this deal. That car happened to be originally a GS 350, and still had the TH-350 gas pedal, which got the wheels spinning in my mind. Not way out on a limb here, engineering wise- remember that tab on the gas pedal was used to work a Trans linkage very much like the TV cable linkage, in sync with throttle opening. It has proven to work well, the biggest thing needed to put a "kit" together is the pedal, cable and the instructions on how to do it. I wonder how many 350 gas pedals are left in the world.. JW
There's a junkyard in town i bet i can get a few from there. Mine is a 350/350 already. So, hopefully that means I'm ahead of the game.
Jim, I tried to send you a PM but your inbox was full. Just wondering if you had any time to look in to the TV cable kit for the 2004r? Thank you,
Jims' a Uranium level contributor, if His in box is full He's in trouble. :grin: If he's building an engine for You it'll take a bit longer. PONCH
I tried to PM him yesterday and it said his box was full. I didn't even think that was possible:laugh:
You are correct, You must have the geometry correct or you can smoke the unit. Its very important to place the bracket correctly and where you mount the TV cable to the throttle linkage is very critical because that is where the sweep ratio comes in. I have seen this problem several times in the past. Here is a very good 200-4r tip link. Put this in your favorites, there is a ton of good info all over there website. http://www.transmissioncenter.net/2004RTIP.htm
Hello I should mount a h200 R4 in my 73 buick estate wagon, with original 455/quadrajet. I use i wire rope, and i hope this will work with homemade bracket.. I Measured exactly 1 5/16 " from center shaft.
I have been wondering when someone was going to come up with this kind of set-up. It looks like there is too much slack in the cable right now. Once you get it dialed in it should work. Its a matter of the distance from the center of the throttle Shaft to the center of the connector on the end of the bracket on the ear. Great ingenuity Man!! :TU: I always thought about a wheel on the Shaft. Having the correct Dia. it would pull the cable out no matter where it started from. With a regular bracket, if it started at the bottom it would pull out then up as the throttle is floored. That wouldn't work. If you had a small Half or even 1/4 of a wheel it would. One could be made to fit. Then you could put it just about anywhere on the shaft. As long as it makes the 78* sweep. PONCH
I have a 68 riv gs, i put a 455 in it and a 700 r4. I have the b4b edlebrok manifold with the 4mv q jet. I just grabbed a stock steel bracket. A very short plain one. Looks like a right angle L with a hole at the _ . The only bolt hole that was behind the carb is off to the left a little. It works fine. The thing isn't straight but it s been working for 10 yrs no problems. I just had to weld in a round tab that the cable slide snaps onto on the linkage . Was simple. The 200 is more critical than the 700 as far as throttle pressure goes, The 350 cars do come with cable on the gas pedal as Jim says. Not all but enough of them did. That would absolutely be the easiest way to do it. I have done 200 r4 swaps before also and i usually used a stock bracket that came off a cutlas v 6 with a 200.
Let's switch gears for a second (pardon the pun) but how did you guys deal with the neutral safety switch? you are adding an extra detent right? Untouched, will the column shift go one selection past L1? What needs to be done or can it simply be left alone? Pics are always appreciated. Dan and Ken G thanks for continued advise. Is it even possible to manually shift into the "new" L1? What needs to be done, as I don't wish to move to a floor shifter
What kind of shifter are you using? If you are using a 68-72+ console, this worked well for me: http://www.shiftworks.com/buick.htm As for the neutral start switch, I used a GN switch that I JB-Welded onto the old switch backing plate in the console: http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?176591-TH350-200R4-swap-summary&p=1865049#post1865049 Here's a good thread on swapping in an OD trans: http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?176591-TH350-200R4-swap-summary
I want to continue to use stock column shifter. I guess my question is, if I do nothing, will the shifter allow me to move it one extra detent down past the original L1? I don't really care about whether or not the letters line up. I see in a link that Ken's NSS actually broke when he forced it into the new L1. Perhaps that's my answer.
I think you are blazing a trail. You should have everything but L1 if it is tight. If you have a little slack in the column and adjust it up where Park is reachable but not overly so, you might be able to get L1 out of it.
returning to the main Topic. Is anyone aware of an adapter that fits a 2bbl Rochester? Pictures of homemade solutions? Patrick
My first 2004r was a manual valve body and I have a column shift car. Never had any issues with 1 2 3 and OD. Original NSS. And that was 10,000 miles of constantly shifting on the column
