UMI handling kits

Discussion in 'Pro-Touring' started by JC2133, Aug 20, 2015.

  1. JC2133

    JC2133 Member

    Does anyone have any of their suspension kits installed? Can you chime in how how the install process went, any fab work needed or was it a direct bolt on? I'm flirting with the idea of upgrading my suspension and their stage 2 and 3 kits look very appealing.
     
  2. blyons79

    blyons79 Well-Known Member

    I have full BMR suspension. No fabrication was required. Lowering the car is a must. Without lowering my front upper control arms were hitting the frame. Went with QA1 coil-overs mainly because they're easier to install than the spring and shock setup. Buy the hardware kits and grease from them too. Never know what shape the old bolts and locking nuts are in and the proper grease is hard to find at the local parts store.
     
  3. gsla72

    gsla72 Well-Known Member

    I have the equivalent of a stage IV or V kit from them (I've pieced it together over the years, not as a kit): Viking coilovers, full front and rear components, etc. I absolutely love UMI parts. They're well built, reasonably priced, and UMI has always provided great customer service. As already mentioned, the biggest difference I noticed was in lowering it on the coil overs. With a double adjustable setup, you can turn the dial to make them ride more comfortably or go the other direction and firm things up.

    My advice would be to start small unless you just absolutely had to have the kit. Piecing it together little by little allows you to determine which components you actually need and where your stopping point should be. Another word of advice is to make sure your brakes are up to snuff.
     
  4. credle72

    credle72 Member

    I have been back and forth on buying a umi kit for a little over a year as well. My constraint was budget (I'm a college student), but I think the UMI stuff is quality. If you email their customer service, you will probably still get Ramey. He helped me figure out what was the best starter combo of parts, and decide what I could do later when budget permits.

    Brakes are a big issue to address! My thought process is, my brakes should be better than my car needs.
     
  5. gsla72

    gsla72 Well-Known Member

    ^^^ Truth. At a minimum upgrade to the factory gs disc brakes or the wilwood d52's if you want a more "pro touring" look. Rears probably aren't 100% necessary at this stage in the game.
     
  6. JC2133

    JC2133 Member

    I feel you on the budget. I'm not a college student any more but I have 4 little kids who are my priority. I could easily get the stage 2 kit now but then there goes Disneyland money...lol, my kids wouldn't be to happy with that.

    If everything goes according as planned, I'll order my kit by early this winter. But before that, I'm getting quality disk breaks soon, before the suspension kit. Not Wilwood but something that has good decent stopping power.
     
  7. lostGS

    lostGS Well-Known Member

    I have been looking at UMI for the wagon. Ramey is a member at Pro-Touring . co. UMI is also a supporter of PT.com.

    Tim
     
  8. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    Get the kit with the spherical bushings in the rear control arms.
     
  9. Darron72Skylark

    Darron72Skylark Active Member

    I'm really interested in the UMI kits as well. Hoping to do a Stage 3 kit and option the taller ball joints. I haven't been considering coil-overs up til now, but it sounds like I should? If they are easier to install and give better control, then that is pretty compelling ...
    Currently searching for the right answer on brakes, too: Baer, Wilwood, CPP, Master Power, Right Stuff?
     
  10. gsla72

    gsla72 Well-Known Member

    I went with the coilovers (Viking) up front to give me flexibility on ride height. My build is a slow burn and things change along the way. Having the ability to dial in ride height if I decide to lose AC up front or relocate the battery (reduce weight) gives me the ability to keep things level down the road. The ride quality is honestly really good with the shocks set on a low number as well. I'm still running a viking double adjustable shock with UMI's lowering spring in back, but may change to coilovers at some point down the road. Not a huge priority though, as the thing already handles like its on rails anyway. Install was cake with the control arms already out (installed UMI's at the same time).

    I went with Baer for my front discs. I'll likely be getting matching rears over the next year mostly for appearance - vain I know...

    For what it's worth, the Baer kit was extremely comprehensive and well put together. I think Wilwood, CPP, or Right Stuff (using their master/prop valve on my build) would be fine as well. Either of those alternatives would likely be a little bit cheaper too. My main advice there would be to get a complete kit from the start so you aren't scrambling for miscellaneous parts halfway through the install. Buy once cry once.
     
  11. gsla72

    gsla72 Well-Known Member

    Before I forget - get the needle bearing spring seats for the coilovers. otherwise you'll have to pull the shock any time you want to adjust the ride height.
     
    Harlockssx likes this.
  12. Darron72Skylark

    Darron72Skylark Active Member

    Thanks for the great insight on UMI and brake suppliers!
    Which Baer kit did you go with?
     
  13. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Well-Known Member

    1964 Skylark convertible.

    I put UMI stage 2 and Wilwood discs all around. 2" drop spindles And Strange S60 with big ends. Install was a cakewalk.

    I should be firing up in the next few weeks. Up to this point, all I have done is push it in and it of the garage. About 1/2 mile. (Pant, pant, pant...)
     
  14. gsla72

    gsla72 Well-Known Member

    SS4 fixed position caliper with 4 pistons. The 6 piston was too large for my wheels or I would have gone with it.
     
  15. gs66

    gs66 Well-Known Member

    I’ve heard good things about UMI too. I have Heidt’s for mine due in part to a gift certificate I won on Power Tour. This also looks like good stuff.
     
  16. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    The main advantage of coil overs is the adjustabilty. Standard springs can work just as well as coil-overs. Priorities for handling. 1. with a 72 you need to box the frame. http://www.abcperformance.net/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=4_93 Don't know why they went to the c channel frame on the GS models in 68 but they did. Put in new body bushings as well. 2. fix the front suspension geometry. UMI, Global West, ABC all have good options. 3. Beef up the rear control arms. MUST have spherical joints at the frame or rubber bushings at all ends. UMI and Currie have spherical joints in their control arms or have spherical bushings for you to add. This will give you a sound basis for all the other stuff.
     
    Harlockssx likes this.
  17. Darron72Skylark

    Darron72Skylark Active Member

    Thanks Doug, this is great info! I was aware to the issue with front geometry and the roto/spherical joints in the back, but didn't know about the frame boxing and body bushings. I'll definitely check it out!
     
  18. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Well-Known Member

    UMI often does discounts on Black Friday.

    I got enough of a discount to pay for the Proforged steering kit. Drag link, idler arm, and inner tie rods (about $300.)
     
  19. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    Kind of sucks that you have to box the frame. Before 68 all GS's came with the convertible frame. Those are stout. Here is a pic of my frame center section boxed with the ABC kit.
     

    Attached Files:

  20. Yanchik

    Yanchik Well-Known Member

    Dont mean to hijack thread, but I have a question about brakes. Does anyone have the c5/c6 corvette calipers or brake system from Kore3? If so, how do you like them? Im stuck between Kore3 and Wilwood. I'm on a budget, and Kore3 is cheaper from what I recall. Thank you!
     

Share This Page