Yadada yadada bearings, paint, posi blah blah.. Then I get the axles in and realize to much play cause I got them swapped. Fixed. So... Did you know it don't take much to put 79 to 85 Caddy, Rivi, or Toranado brakes on these? You didn't? Well now let me show you. The backing plate required 1 new hole, 3 oblong. Now I know what your thinking... It's gonna move around. It can't, the studs keep it locked in. Lil die grind trim for rotor clearance. Outside hub of axle milled down to 5.080 or inside diameter of disc with some clearance. Now the issue is that stock Buick wheels won't fit without 1/2 inch spacer. The hat of the rotor isn't deep enough to set calipers back towards shocks. I'm getting different wheels anyway, but have rollers to use for now. Factory e brakes cables will work, here's how. You turn them around. The locking ears snap right into place on frame. Use a 14mm deep socket if you need to remove it again.
Did the same thing. Actually,the rear disc brake kits that Right Stuff Detailing,Inline Tube,and a variety of other vendors sell,is the same thing. Late-70’s Caddy Eldorado caliper,with a late-70’s Camaro/Firebird rear rotor. They just make a modern caliper bracket that fastens to the inside of the flange. I have a few pairs of the GM brackets that mount to the outside. Mine look very similar to yours,but had different flange holes for staggered shocks. I just clocked them in the position I wanted and drilled 4 new holes in each.
I think the Camaro rear disc hats are deeper? The cost is cheaper via the junk yard, and the bracket goes between the axle and retaining plate. With the thinker seal from the part numbers you gave me, works fine. 79 Buick to 85. I dunno about any other years. But while in the junk yard, I looked over at a newer Buick, and the calipers are close on design. However, they no longer mount on plate but on suspension parts.
Brackets 16 for the pair, calipers were 30 for the pair normal price. Junk yard day was 50 percent off, ordered new rotors and ceramic pads 90ish, caliper rebuild kits 40 total. 160 with tax? Meh
Why does everyone get those lower extensions? Have we not enough adjustments with adjustable control arms...lol. Soild crush sleeves etc. gimmicks to get that money out of your pocket... I really wish Moser did not do the uppers with the bushing cast extensions either... I am glad to have something though as 12 bolts around here are all dried up and or Just junk and overpriced ... NICE 50.00 CRATE BY THE WAY...God.... Look at all the snow in the box... was that from driving in a pick-up?
That factory brackets DO go between the axle and retainer plate,but the new brackets that everyone are making mount behind the flange. There are offsets machined into the brackets,to put the calipers in the same position as they were with the GM brackets. Most of the kits are using the 79-81 Trans Am rotor. You can get them plain or cross-drilled/slotted. Inline Tube started offering their kits with dust shields,but I would prefer not to use them. It also makes a pain to set them down or ship them because you will bend the shields if you don’t have blocks under the control arm brackets.
don't for get the labor.... Jim clean and rebuild each caliper redrill the caliper bracket and fit make the spacer plates paint everything to look like new. can of paint (cast blast) all the little thing add up.... when you do it as a business. hardware mounting kit (slide pins, sleeves and rubber bushings )... Might be included in the rebuild kit might not? Remember in the north the used parts are JUNK... salt up here will totally destroy every moving part exposed. Southern parts are great. No acidic soil... Biggest bummer about the BOP is the axle flange having to be turned down...I have seen guys just go to town with the grinder too...lol. it works but not the pretties t thing in the wolrd ...as you do not see it anyway. Jim
Jim, I like the raised upper ears,and the shock mounts moved inboard. Heck,if they made an 8.5” like this,I would get them. The adjustable lower brackets are a little excessive. What I really don’t understand is why they still insist on putting OEM rubber bushings in the upper ears. Obviously,if you are at this point,you are not using rubber bushings. Yea,the crate was too tall to fit under my tonneau cover,so it got snowed on. The crate is a bit overkill for a bare housing and shafts.
Yep I still use the right stuff...even though they changed owners here in Columbus Oh...try to keep the money in our state best i can. I never use those splash shields either as state shipping nightmare!!! Yep you can get them with colored calipers drilled slotted etc. If you have rims you can not see any of that then do not bother. The pluses and on the rotor are NOT that great for a street car beside the cool effect. (that can be taken 2 ways...lol)
What are you going to do about the caliper plate being too thick? You putting in a shim to hold the axle shaft from sliding in and out of the housing?
The seals I have are thicker than the original that came off. I've done everything I can to make sure that are seated well and they still force tension again axle plate. The original backing plates are .1 and the caliper bracket is .2. Even tightened down, the axle plate slightly bows. If it was a big concern, I could make a plate with a milled surface that pushed down on that seal. No?
