Update on my t-type BBB - Deck lid pics

Here is our pit crew mounting the rear deck lid. lol., pit crew.

 

Lids

Skinned stock lid is the way I went . But, VFN............... nice :TU:

 

I still have to add more, it's filling up quick p

 

Here we go :

The trans is finished less the brake. I have a billet manual valve body in for break in. Don't want the temptation of trans brake launches :laugh: and some other neet stuff inside....

The rear is the 8.5 from the car. Moser 30 spline, spool, weld on ford "big bearing" ends and GM 373 gears. Welded tubes for grins.

The glass is in the car. I have a spare block that were going to bolt to the trany after the rear is bolted in, tomorrow I hope. Then we can start on the driveshaft and tube cross member. You can also see in the first picture the new glass rear bumper.

 

we cut the door braces off each door, what a pain. I will look for that pic...

 

Re: Update on my t-type BBB - build pics

Roughed out rear interior. We will be adding the rear seat loops in the rear firewall this winter. Not sure if the seat will ever go in though.

 

couple more . what do you think so far?

 

I think you got alot on your plate but will be happy when its finally complete. I wish my garage was the size of yours. Mine is so small I'm afraid to start up a heater as it will probably catch the wall on fire.

 

Your not kidding with the plate thing! lol, but I have some good support over here with Finishline Motorsports guys helping and such. Not to mention we had 8 guys over last Wed drinking my beverages while I wrenched, smirk....

Not sure how much heat you need in Ky? But it's colder than a witches t... (you get it)
up here. Soon I'll have the wood stove going and the torpedo heater at the same time!

I moved the 72 Chevelle to storage for this winter so we can FINISH the Buick. I will not allow spring to come and go without doing a huge burnout in front of my house! I have had it with not drag racing!

 

Are the glass bumpers from VFN as well? How did you mount them?
Everything looks GREAT so far!!:beer

 

Thanks "430" ! Yes on the VFN bumper (rear). Still need the front one. The VFN rear does not have mounting brackets so I removed the stock aluminum filler and used only the stock alum frame, after I sawzawed the thing into just the perimeter or shell. I made alum mounts to replace the stock shock type. The whole thing weighs about as much as two summit mags and three jegs!

Below is the test Block and heads for clearance stuff. The trany is under there as well. The Wilwoods bolted right up but the TA girdled cover doesn't fit. The top and bottom bolts are off by .030" to .050" in opposite directions.... The side bolts are right on? Not sure what’s up with that. The alum frame motor mounts don't come close to anything either? Great fun. Bob and Randy are the Wed night regulars.

 

Looks like we need to shim the motor mounts on the motor and the correct 10 bolt cover is on the way. (Grand National 10 Bolt girdled cover is not the same as BOP 10 bolt, lol, who knew)

 

We had to oblong one of the top two alum motor mount holes and ended up drilling our own third, or bottom hole.

NOW, we set the headers in to see if they would line up. Nope. They hit pretty bad on both sides. 2" primary stg 2. Drivers side hits the brake distribution block and the frame and the tranny shift linkage. The pass side hits mostly on the firewall, nothing a big hammer can't fix, and the frame.

 

Just a word of caution. I also used another block for mock-up and what I found when I installed the block I was going to run was that things were alittle different. Reasom being the block I used for mock-up was a standard block (never been touched) and the block (motor) I was going to run had been zero decked and that moved the headers down about .040 and things that did fit now hit something. Don't know what your using but take the block differences (if you have any) into account. I also have 2" header tubes and had to have the #7 cylinder tube re-configured to fit (no denting though) but for a different reason than you. Seeing I only paid $40.00 for a brand new set of headers it was worth putting some more money in them but they are a tight fit. It took me 4 hours to get all the header bolts in them.

 

oh ya, that makes more sense. I will stick some old gaskets under the heads, that might help. The heads I have are borrowed stg 2 Early castings with plenty of work done. O-ringed and decked etc... This weekend I might try to figure out how much they took off those in order to "build" mine back up. The blocks should be pretty close. Looks like if we shave the alum mounts the motor might slide back just enough to clear one of the many clearance problems.

Thanks for the reminder :laugh:

Here is one for ya .... Add these numbers up as fast as you can:

3+3





5+1





4+2






Pick a vegetable ?



Scroll down


















was it a carrot?

 

No, tomato?

 

Try that to someone you know in person and I bet they say carrot. About 8-9- out of ten usually pick carrot. Have them add up numbers that all equal 6, maybe even have them subtract to 6 .. then have them pick the vegatable, all while going fast.

 

I did that a long time ago, and yes, I did come up with carrot. Apparently, the number 6 is often associated with the colour orange, or in a vegetable context, carrot. You're right, though... the mathematical questions must be asked in rapid succession.

Now, back to your regularly scheduled big block Regal discussion...

 

lol... I wondered where the carrot thing came from :eek2:

 

This weeks progress, the pipes... Great fun. We had to grind the upper control arms, the lowers, the frame, the brake distribution block and the firewall. Next will be the frame notch and weld, then the brake line re-route. But they look cool. The plastic is up across the half way mark in the barn and the wood stove is cranked. 12-12-07.