Urgency for rust repair

Discussion in 'Chassis restoration' started by zethreal, Mar 13, 2018.

  1. zethreal

    zethreal Member

    I just bought a 1973 LeSabre 4-door hardtop and there's rust at the base of the rear window under/around the chrome. I haven't pulled the chrome piece for fear that once it comes off, it won't go back on because of the rust. I was wondering if it should be OK for a while or if it's a "drop it off at the body shop to get fixed immediately" deal?

    The rust is just barely visible under the chrome, but is obviously rot on the edges and not just on the surface. I'm planning on doing all of the body work I can, since most is just cosmetic. This is an area that, when the time comes, will definitely be done by a pro. I'll post pictures Saturday, which is when I'm actually taking delivery on the car.
     
  2. philbquick

    philbquick Founders Club Member

    Melt candle wax in that area which will seal it off from the air and moisture and prevent it from getting worse until you have time to fix it right. You can use a heat gun or small torch to liquefy the wax.
     
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  3. Matt Knutson

    Matt Knutson Well-Known Member

    I wouldn't put wax on there. Remove the chrome and clean all the crud that is built up and check for water leaks into the trunk. If no pin holes or leaks you can paint the area with POR15 and buy some time before you have it all properly repaired. If you have pin holes or worse you will need to remove the glass and do some repairs to the area. Then reinstall the glass and chrome. If the car is garaged and not driven in the weather - leave it alone until you can get the repairs done. If you put wax or silicone sealant on the affected area it will leak and cause adhesion issues. You could use urethane sealant as a temporary repair (band-aid) without the problems other band-aids will cause. Perhaps you will post a picture or three of the area and get some other free advice (ideas).
     
  4. buick64203

    buick64203 Buick Hunter Staff Member

    I had the same issue on my 70 GS beater. I pulled the rear window, wire wheeled the area. There were a few holes that I filled in with long strand fiberglass filler. Painted the channel with some Krylon tan which matched the Bamboo cream pretty well. Replaced the clips and re-installed the window. Not the best repair for longevity, but Im sure that bought me quite a few years.
     
  5. zethreal

    zethreal Member

    I'm picking the car up on Saturday & I'll post pics then.
     
  6. JZRIV

    JZRIV S.W. PA - Farm Country

    If it rains where you are, a BIGGER concern than the rust you see around the rear window is the rust potential in rear passenger floor and/or trunk from the most certain rear window leak.
    I would pull the back seat bottom and look under carpet and also under the lining in trunk.
     
  7. zethreal

    zethreal Member

    Here are the 3 areas of rust by the rear window. The last one is on the passenger side.
    IMG_20180320_182729.jpg IMG_20180320_182719.jpg IMG_20180320_182709.jpg

    The window seals are in really good shape and there is one small bit of rust on the floor of the trunk. The front and rear floors are in great shape.
     
  8. buick64203

    buick64203 Buick Hunter Staff Member

    That's it?? :rolleyes::D:D If the window doesn't leak like a sieve, I'd leave it alone. If you really want to pick that scab, pull the moldings off, clean out the channel and maybe paint some rust converter on the areas with an artist brush. The clips are readily available if you break a few. I don't think that rust is that extensive
     
    zethreal likes this.
  9. philbquick

    philbquick Founders Club Member

    The reason wax works is because it wicks between the layers of metal and seals the metal from the air and moisture. Yes, it needs to be cleaned before a proper repair is done since it will splatter like crazy when it's welded. I also do this after I repair rust by welding metal since it (again) wicks between the metal flanges where paint does not go. I do this after I'm done with sheetmetal fabrication after everything has been epoxy coated on all sheet metal flanges (where one piece of sheet metal is attached to another), especially where the lower quarter meets the riser and the wheel house. Why you ask: because paint doesn't go there and moisture does. Even if you use weld through primer some of it gets burned through during welding and some metal is left unprotected. And yes, it needs to be thoroughly cleaned with silicone and WAX remover (otherwise known as prep-sol) before any further painting is done. To do this the surface needs to be hot enough for the wax to get thin like water so it and wick between the layers. I've been doing this a long time and my cars DON"T RUST.
     
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  10. zethreal

    zethreal Member

    Thanks. I just want to make sure I get it taken care of before there's an issue. What can I say, she's going to be my baby & I want to keep her going for a while. I guess that means I get to focus on the hood and replacing dashboard lights. Thanks for the advice!
     

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