As far as colors, that car looks alot different than than when it left the showroom. Code 42 is Willowmist Green, A 71 color. Upper color, code G is a green vinyl top. And the Trim 100 is green vinyl bench. Geez...triple green, Must of looked like a string bean! p Engnie code J is 350 4 barrel single exhaust. Get some white vinyl dye and have at it. If the molding is still pliable, try removing it carefully. It will make painting it alot easier. Scrub it real good to get the dirt out of the grain. Wipe it down with some alcohol or wax and grease remover before painting it.
We have parted a few cars and there were a few of them with that type of trim. I also have pictures of a red 70 GS 455 that had a vinyl top added at the dealer and those moldings were used. I know for a fact this car was all original,but the top was added after delivery of the car.
As was mentioned before...don't paint over it without some sort of adhesion promoter or you may find yourself doing it again, and again, and...... If you can get it off the car that would be best....but you will want to paint it in the SHAPE (curvature) that is as close as possible to the installed form. The vinyl paints are flexible but flexing still doesn't HELP adhesion. Clean the stuff THOROUGHLY...get all the existing paint off of it if possible. Start paint process with Bulldog Adhesion Promoter (get it at O'Reilly's etc in a spray can....one can is way more than you'll need. Cost approx $13/can). READ THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE BULLDOG CAN (or whichever brand adhesion promoter you use) and FOLLOW THEM SEM should have a white vinyl paint that will match fairly well and it's perfectly compatible with the Bulldog Adhesion Promoter. Remember, this stuff is thin paint...so it's not bulletproof. Take it easy when you wash the car, etc. I doubt I'd want to spray it with one of those high pressure wand type deals at the coin operated car wash. Your supposed to be looking at houses anyway!!---do you have time for vinyl top work? (See my latest posting on your "house buying" thread in "the Bench" section).
Now it is red with white top, white interior with bucket seats with full console. Someone put alot of work into the car to make it a Custom clone, lol. Thank god it doesn't look like a string bean anymore.
That data plate looks like it is original to the car. Looks like it was never touched. The goop is seam sealer the factory put on the rivets. Most cars came with it. The area around the VIN tag looks a little funny however. Maybe some work dne there. How do the VIN rivets look? Do you have the title and does it have correct VIN? You need to cover your butt in case something fishy with car. Alot can happen to a car in 38 years.
I can't see any VIN rivets. It's like theres a slot in the dash and the VIN is recessed in there about a 1/4". Maybe someone could post a picture of what their VIN tag area looks like so I could compare it to mine. Title VIN# matches car VIN#. I don't have a way to get the car in the air to check the tranny vin. I'm skinny- but not skinny enough to go that far under it. What else can I do to protect myself? I've never had any problems registering it or titling it. The dude I got it off of was pretty shady though, lived in a trailer right next to his brothers junkyard- seemed poor as dirt but he had this georgous car. It's been dolled up like that Galaxie on the "Don't buy cars on ebay thread", just not near as bad. If I could go back in time I porbably would have "kept looking" but I was young with 5 grand burning a hole in my pocket.
Is the plastic trim piece around the VIN? it should pop right up with a screwdriver. It is held in by tabs. Just be careful as you do not want to crack the piece. The rivets are hidden by them
back to the molding...is it metal or plastic...that will determine the process...best bet would be to remove it....but you need to first figure out how it is atached...from factory it should have studs...aftermarket would be rivets thru the clips...if plastic it would be best to media blast with plastic pellets..... or scuff as much of material off as possible... then use adhesion promoter such as SEM Sand Free or Bulldog from KleanStrip...then plastic primer and topcoat...metal...same thing remove all the paint and primer and use a self etch prime and top coat...this van also be done with molding in place....but make sure you use a quality fineline tape to mask off areas
The moulding is a plastic, its pliable to bend around around the contour of the car. It was originally clear, painted white to match the vinyl top. Pulling it off won't be fun but the end result will be much better than if I left it on the car. Ill clean it as best I can, scuff it with a SOS type pad, clean it and then....Where do I get an adhesion promoter at? After that is applied I will do a plastic primer than a topcoat. Any brands of choice Sean?
If you're going to paint it, then you will probably get better results by sanding it down a bit to remove the peeling paint edges. Bulldog Adhesion Promoter + SEM paint/dye will work well. You can get both of these at your local auto-paint-supply store.
