Welder to get for rust repair

Discussion in 'Color is everything!' started by James McD, Jan 5, 2010.

  1. James McD

    James McD Well-Known Member

    All,

    Not sure if a 110V or 220V is better for me?

    Just looking into getting a welder to start doing some rust repair. I would like to stick to a 110, for its portability......but can add 220 if it can weld thin metal better.

    It will be used for thinner gauge metal, I don't see myself doing anything structural..... or using it that often.

    Thanks,
    James
     
  2. dr

    dr Well-Known Member

    I had a Miller 135 (110 volt) used it for a few years, nice machine. I purchased a Miller 180 (220) last year, great machine. Go with a 220volt, you can do so much more with it.
     
  3. henry

    henry Well-Known Member

    I have a miller 250x, 220 volt that I love, but have used a lincoln 110 unit that worked great on thin stuff. I just don't like flux core wire, get the argon. Scott
     
  4. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Hobart Handler 140 amp, 110v. Made in the USA on the Miller line, will weld anything you want on an automobile and is an excellent value.

    Devon
     
  5. techg8

    techg8 The BS GS

    I use a Lincoln ProCore wire feed unit. Got it at home depot or lowes, along with all the supplies I needed. Somewhere around $300-$400ish.

    It runs on 110 and handles up to .250" steel with no trouble.

    I use the fluxcore wire in it and get good results. I have used several Gas shielded units and the results are MUCH prettier with the gas shield.

    Good news is, the Procore is upgradeable to gas should I choose to do so.

    Prior to purchasing the Lincoln, I had tried using a stick welder with thin rods, but I never got the hang of it. The Wire feed welder with the point-and-shoot design has served me so much better.

    Variable wire feed speed and 4 heat settings. It has a chart on its inside to give you a start point setting for whatever material you are working with.

    Good luck!
     
  6. ubushaus

    ubushaus Gold Level Contributor

    That's the one I bought!

    Don't forget to search craigslist - I found mine cheap and in good condition.
     
  7. Aaron65

    Aaron65 Well-Known Member

    X2...I have one and it is GREAT for sheetmetal work. Make sure to use the gas hookup. I leased my tank from the local gas company (AirGas) pretty reasonably.
     
  8. Daves69

    Daves69 Too many cars too work on

    X3 I have the Hobart Handler.
     
  9. James McD

    James McD Well-Known Member

    Does a 220V weld thinner metal better? Or with sheet metal, does the 110V do just as well?

    Thanks,

    James
     
  10. Aaron65

    Aaron65 Well-Known Member

    For thin metal, 110 is just as good, maybe better. If you plan on welding frames or thicker steel, a 220 might be a good choice.
     
  11. Nothingface5384

    Nothingface5384 Detail To Oil - Car Care

    220 will give you room to expand to more projects but a 110 will be good for autobody

    i got a lincoln weld pak..3200? 135 max amp, does everything I needed so far!

    it'll do up to 14 plate but since at that ampagw the duty cylce will just suck where you cant lay a nice long bead ...but it'll do it with some stop and go action ..preheating thick metal(frames) works also to guarentee deep penetration
     
  12. Big Todd

    Big Todd Well-Known Member

    I love my Hobart 140, it's my favorite tool I have, my kid makes fun of me all the time, he says I allways try to weld everything, it's sweet though, Miller puts out that new one that you just enter the type of metal and guage and it automatically adjusts, it looks sweet but you could buy like three hobarts for the price of one of those though
     
  13. James McD

    James McD Well-Known Member

    Thanks for everyone's input...

    I bought a Hobart 120 with cart/tank/auto mask/cutting torch/cutting gas/two spools of wire/extra liner/books and a video for $300.00.

    Miller or something 220V would have been nice, but this suits my poor little budget better.

    Question, how come welding upside down or contorted under the car is soooo much harder than with it right in front of you? I ended up tacking my exhaust in place, and then pulling to get at it easier.

    James
     
  14. dr

    dr Well-Known Member

    Gravity can be your friend or your enemy. Gravity pulls the puddle down.
    Overhead welding is tricky I have set my self on fire a time or two welding overhead.
     
  15. Hawken

    Hawken Hawken

    I do nothing more than some hobby welding and some limited sheet metal work in sporadic auto restorations - so I am not a professional welder. But ..........., I recently picked up a 110V 90 Amp flux core wire feed welder for $80 at Harbor Freight. I know, I know, it is what it is, but it retailed for $199 and after the sale and an additional coupon tacked on to that which I received in the mail, the final damage was $80 plus the governor's fee.

    I figure that if I use it just a few times, it'll more than pay for itself.
     
  16. tom Hearsey

    tom Hearsey Well-Known Member

    I had to laugh when I thought back to gauging the expertise of a good welder by jokingly saying " He was so good he could weld overhead bare chested":laugh:
     

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