What to do? 350 engine budget build! $1500 - $2000 Max

So here's the story. I bought a 68 skylark about a year ago. I am no mechanic and I am not that technical but I try really hard lol. So the car came with a 73 rebuilt motor. (I didn't know about the motor and smog regulations before I started this journey) The motor is actually pretty good. Seems strong but man is she slow as molasses. I can't live like this!!!

This is what I have done so far. I swapped the intake manifold with a TA 4bbl Kit with an edelbrock 600cfm kit. Also added a TA Hei Distributor. Didn't know that wasn't the best decision but here is where we are. New water pump. New TA Valve covers I put dual magnaflow mufflers on and I plan to add some headers so i won't add that into the cost since I already planned on that

I took it to the transmission place and the transmission shifts fine but it is a 300 2 speed transmission so it's not helping in the speed department.
The car looks nice. LarryGS helps me out from time time and I get parts from FredGS so I appreciate these guys.

BUT I am too young to drive this slow. I don't need a race car or anything crazy but I would like to make this car my summer driver since she is a convertible- plus it would save me a ton on mile on my lease that I am currently way over on mileage on.

I have scoured the internet for parts an information. But there are so many options.

I have around $1500 - $2000. to get this thing moving faster than it's current walking pace.

If this was your build and your budget what would you do to get her running at a great pace?

 

The gearing is your biggest obstacle. That transmission and factory gearing needs torque to perform, which a low comp stock 350 won't provide.

There's a few options.

If you want to keep the engine the same or with a few mods, swapping that transmission to a TH350 or 200-4r with more gears, and/or improve your rear end gearing will do wonders for your take-off performance.

If you want to keep your transmission and/or rear end gearing, put in a big block Buick.

Or you could do a combination of both, or beef up the 350 that's in there now. Remember that compression will make more power, at the cost of better fuel needed. Alternatively, more cubes will make more power regardless of compression, though higher is always better for performance.

This is about as simple as it gets, and I'm out of time for now.

I'm sure others will chime in with suggestions.

Best wishes

 

What would you suggest for rear gears?

 

Here's where gearing up a low HP engine can be disastrous , all it does is put you in 2nd and 3rd at a lower speed and it will actually slow you down because the car will be pulling in 3rd for longer. To be honest there isn't anything worthwhile you can do with that budget. A 2004r would in fact be the biggest improvement and unless you source a good used trans your gonna eat the $1500 up QUICK

 

I say do a Q jet from Everyday performance, and also have him re-curve your distributor, and if you can find a Th-350 with Buick. Olds, Pontiac bellhousing and a short tail shaft swap that in. I am sure with a good working carb, and the timing coming in at the right time you will be impressed.

 

A recipe' for a sbb stroker build to raise HP and torque;

A set of nascar take out rods like these;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181969787105?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Should be able to get for $200 at the most, maybe less, have to make offer to see how low they will go.

And a set of these pistons;

http://www.buyracingparts.com/pisto...totec-forged-350-buick-dished-piston-kit.html

$649 piston and ring kit, cheap for a customizable piston that can be ordered to work with the nascar take out rods and to be able to dial in wanted compression. The part that can make a sbb stroker build possible without breaking the bank, other custom pistons would start at around $800 and that doesn't include wristpins or rings like the AutoTecs do.


Have crank offset ground .140"(if virgin crank, will be less if reground before) extra stroke, should cost around $350.

Rebalance, around $200.

Machine work for block can save some $$ here just having the block cleaned, new freeze plugs and cam bearing and honed. With the above pistons skipping having block bored will save around $100 because pistons can be ordered any bore size needed. Try to stay close to a bore size that has good rings available, so if the block is a virgin never bored, then 3.809" has some good performance rings available because that is an LS bore size and would be easily honed the .009" bigger than factory it needs to be. Cost of block work around $350.

The compression distance on that piston can be ordered any height you need for your build, so you can save $150 NOT having the deck machined. By doing this you can use the lesser expensive composite Fel-Pro blue head gaskets which would save you $50 vs. steel shim head gaskets as well because of the pistons above.

Balancing around $200, should be done on any performance build, being that it is a '73 and newer block and crank you are able to have the crank balanced internally if you wanted to and probably wouldn't need any heavy metal added. But to save a few bucks the internal balancing isn't really necessary unless you plan on spinning over 7,000 RPM often. The extra cost of an internal balancer would need to be purchased as well as an internal balance flex plate or internal balance flywheel to switch over to internal balanced rotating assembly.

Other things like bearings, gaskets and other things needed to do a rebuild needs to be done to make this happen, but adding everything together should be close to your budget for an almost bullet proof bottom end that would take very well to any cylinder head upgrades in the future you may be able to have done. Unless you want to try to attempt to do your own porting, I can help walk you through that if this is the path you're interested in traveling.


So around $2,000 for a sbb stroker short block(a short block is an engine without heads and intake). With a 3.809" bore and a 3.990" stroke you would have 363.72599 rounded up is 364 cid sbb. Let me know if you have any questions. GL





Derek

 

2004R trans and some 4.10 gears

 

Yes most of the comments are right.
Loosing the edelbrock carb is first and most importantl. It's not right for your engine and requires a lot of recalibrating to get close.
But best results are all of them.350 trans with a 2400 convertor, as if you go 200r4 you need a lower gear to match or lug the weak engine due to dropping rpm too much in overdrive to make any gains. But chances are the rebuilt engine has the cheaper replacement piston that will only have 7.7 compression. That's dropping hp and torque.
I suggest pulling engine and doing a Piston swap and a crower level 3 cam for a 9.5 compression or the TA 413 with 10 to 1 compression. Add a trishield torque converter with the 350 trans. That will change the engine completely. Big valves will further improve power from there.you would be making enough power that you can decide on gearing later.

If a piston swap isn't an option you can do the big valves and shave heads for a smaller bump in compression. (.050 off head is 8.7, or .060 is 9 to 1) with the crower cam. You will need .050 shorter pushrods and possibly some shaving off intake face maybe needed. . Guesstamite of 100 actual hp gain possible.
Either combo will like a 3.23 or 3.42 gear but chances are you will already be close to your 2000 budget so the rear end will have to wait .
You may also need a 4 barrel accelorater cable if your car was originally a 2 barrel car. .

 

Amen! loose the Edelbrock carb. It will never operate correctly. Get a proper Q-jet.

Save your header money for compression and camshaft. All new bearings, bore for new Auto tec pistons to get 10;1 compression, Crower level 3 cam, pocket port the heads will get you at least 310HP and 375lb torque.

Also loose the 2 speed for either a TH 350 or 200R4. For the cost of a 200R4 that will live you can have a TH350, convertor, and 3.42 gears installed.

 

You can often save $$ by slightly raising the intake ports with a carbide rather than milling.
I avoid the milling the intake side whenever possible...I have both methods at my disposal.

 

Ok so first thing is to get a Qjet. I have been thinking that for some time...

Next is to decide which tranny. What is a good torque converter for each tranny?

 

It is were me I would tune up the engine and find a th-350 core and have it went through by a trans shop and then swapped in when you have time and money, adding a new converter at that time.

Jim Wise the owner of TSP and this board can get you a nice custom converter however for your application any reputable converter would be fine.

Something like these below would be good, you want a higher than stock stall rating but nothing too loose or you will loose driveablity.

For the th-350:

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/hup-gm25/overview/

For the 200:

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/hup-21-25/overview/

And there are a million other options but something in that price range would be fine.

 

This is why I say you may or may not need extra work on intake face. And as far as convertor you should decide on camshaft range first, as this will change what convertor you need. Some canes come in low and a closer to stock convertor is acceptable as where say the TA 310 or 413 requires 3000 rpm or higher rated and also with any convertor see what its rating is for small block.
As it works on torque a bigger motor will stall higher. So what says up to 2800 would be for a powerful big block . On a 350 it may stall at 22-2400. If you stick to a low end cam 2400 is ok. (Cams rated 220 @.050 or lower) and 3000 or better for cams 230@.050 or higher . But these cams need higher compression. So basically you need to change the entire package or combo to truly get the results your asking for. But you won't be disappointed by doing this the correct way.
Also get a Quadrajet built by Quadrajet power or everyday performance.

 

subscribed...

 

For this type of budget there is a need to leave out as much machine work as possible, do as much DIY as you dare, and follow a whole package recipe.
A good working used thm350 with a shift kit would be a major improvement over a 2 spd and anything thought to be gained by the lower gearset of an OD (more $$) could be used towards breathing improvements...VJ, pocket porting, cam, headers, etc..
ALL above ideas are good. A lot will depend on what you can find thing$ for co$t wi$e.

 

Torque converter $150
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/60400/10002/-1
You should be able to find a working 350 trans local for under $200. Try Craigslist.
Double roller timing set $60
Crower cam lifter and springs about $250-300
.050 shorter TA pushrod $50
Break in oil $25
Gasket set $100
TA big valves $300
Install and blend valves $450(estimate)
Shave heads for 42 cc(9 to 1 compression) $200
Quadrajet build $350
About $2300. Estimate.
That's if you can install trans and heads. Similar to Matts build earlier this year.
14 second/91+ 1/4 mile times after tune

 

A piston swap would be more cost effective. 250-300 for Pistons . No work done to heads except for spring change. Press piston on rod. $50. Possibly rings and bearing if you find a problem. Vs the 300 for valves, and 650 for machine work and head shaving.
Use the 340p piston at 9.2 compression and a level 3 cam or go with hyperutectic 522h piston or the 3.0 v6 flat tops for about 9.8 -9.9. Compression and go to the TA 310 or 413 cam . But really need headers with those cams. So add $550 but hp could be in the 350 hp range

 

I apologize for what seems like picking on your posts, it's great advice so far...I'm just going to adjust your prices to fit the budget.
He can spare great expense in valves and VJ with mild porting and a basic VJ, as long as the valves aren't already trashed and a VJ is adequate.
Installing bigger valves without opening up the bowls is often a flow loss...waste of time power-wise.
Look for a shop that can shave heads for maybe $75/both or less.
DIY port the heads.
Make a total goal for all of the above $200-300 or find a less worn set of heads.

 

Yes and all shops do differ in price. I did mention that previously that bigger valves are an option . Sure things can be left out. Op will need to choose what's best for him and his budget

 

The gain with the bigger valves does not justify the cost. $750+ dollars for maybe 10hp at peak? Remember I've dyno'd these changes.

Open the valve pockets to the diameter of the lowest step of the valve grind and you will gain more. As noted, not doing this will render the big valves nearly worthless. Also headers are not needed up to 350hp. Again $550 for little gain.

Use that $1300 to build a solid long block with correct pistons and compression ratio.