I'm trying to remove the right front wheel well. Does anyone know if I have to remove the outer fender to get the wheel well out? Either way all suggestions are welcome.
Ok...I have a 1970 GS 455 and got the inner ww's off w/o removing the fenders. It wasn't easy! I jacked the car up and removed the wheel/tire. The big prob is if the bolts are rusted bad...then the weld nut breaks and spins...then it's a nightmare on the car. I don't know how nice your car is, or what you are trying to do. But it might be easier to pull the inner and outer together and work on it off the car.
Jac the car up by placing the jack under the engine crossmember. Makes it easier to r/r the fender liner as this method removes any pressure on the liner.
It does look like it might be easier to pull the fender. I broke two weld nuts trying to change the body bushings and need to access that area. Car is in good shape the bolts holding the wheel well came lose without too much trouble. It just looks like an ordeal to get it out. Other than the bolts to the core support where are the bolts to remove the passenger side front fender?
2 bolts at bottom of rear fender 1 bolt at pillar 2 bolts on cowl area and then the bottom fender brace up front and dont forget to disconnect turn signal plug wire and its a good idea to make some marks for alignment for when you slap it back on tape and a marker ,and be careful taking it off and on /2 person operation ...
Theres also 3(?) on each side around the headlight bezel. You may need to drop the bumper too. Hood and hinge on that side as well. Go for the inner fender. Unless its a show car, take a cut off wheel and cut an access door by the bolts to get them off. An oversized patch painted black and tech screwed back in will fool ALL the judges! Keep any and all shims in EXACT order. A drop of oil on each bolt helps. When going back together, get ALL the bolts started, then start securing with the top (cowl are) first, then the front, and the last are the two bottom bolts Those will "squeeze" the fender pushing the body crease out to clear the door. DO NOT TRY TO OPEN THE DOOR UNTIL FINISHED! My door clears the fender with a dollar bill as a feeler gage. Don't forget the 2 mud deflector bolts and cover way back inside behind the tire into the frame. Those should really come off first. If you forget them the fender will have to hang on them otherwise. Those are down by the body bushing bolts anyway. Can you pull the lower rear inner away enough to get a hold back wrench in there with an impact on the bolt heads? PB blaster may help down there. Its one of the rustiest spots on these cars! ws
If your referring to the front body bushings, you didn't break any "cage nuts" those are just nuts in those positions
Clever work on that core support. I need to come up with something for that while I'm at it. That area is totally rusted out.
I made patch panels and screwed them in with tech screws, and the did the same with a repair patch for the front of the right inner fenderwell. Both sides needed attention and turned out structurally well, in my book. The judges hate it; but form follows function... ws
