I forwarded the link to my brother who understands this stuff better. We basically ordered cam based off info provided from buick. Which claims 9to1 stock. I will have the heads off soon enough to identify pistons
Back in the day me and my brother would jack up a car and turn the back tires and watch the rotations of the drive shaft is that still accurate? I might be missing a step.
Yes. If you ever remove the rear cover to change the gear oil, there are 2 numbers on the rig gear edge. Divide the smaller into the larger and get the gear ratio. This is a 4.09,
My car was bought new in may of 1970 so it's an early 70 production. Does that increase my chances of having the higher compression pistons?
I decided on the avs2 because of annular boosters. This link and hundreds of customer reviews are what sold me on the AVS2. They showed 80 ftlbs of torque increase on a dyno with annular booster. That's insane. http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/1908-inside-look-new-edelbrock-avs2-carburetor/
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/tuning-edelbrock-avs2-carb/ Another article. I'm interested in driveability and reliability as well as performance. With a mild built 350 I'm curious to why this isn't a great choice. I will modify it if needed. I guess I don't understand why this carb is leaving alot of power on the table...?
Because at best it’s an aftermarket carburetor designed to fit a chevypontiacoldsmobilebuickfordchrysleramcstudebakerjeep from 200 to 400 cubic inches installed in a cartrucktractorboat. Cheaply. Whereas the Rochester Quadrajet you should run was designed to fit a Buick 350 in a Skylark or GS and can be rebuilt and tuned by a knowledgeable Buick person for your engine, cam, trans etc. Patrick
I threw around the idea of a quadrajet. A part of me really is excited about the annular boosters on the avs2 though. If it takes tuning and jetting to get it just right then so be it.
I have experienced the avs carb. And compared to the Holley terminator efi 950 that replaced it, felt like I gained 50 hp thru the rpm range. I read up on annular boosters. I don’t see the hype. Check the edelbrock avs forums . Google it. It can work but you will be changing metering rods and jets, and possibly a accelerator pump, as you will probably have a hesitation with the single plane intake. You will find that out once you get it running. Air fuel meter. back to your engine work, The thin head gasket is steel , not composite, I suggest having both block and heads surfaced . So you have the best possible surface for that type of gasket to seal. I have used these gaskets. Surface is critical for coolant not to leak. As you have engine out, replace freeze plugs, they are old and rusty on the in side. Save yourself the headache of a leak later down the road. I as suggest a new front cam bearing with a new cam. Strongly recommend the ta performance backgrooved front cam bearing. I personally would drill out oil pickup passage to pickup tube to 1/2 inch at least and the 5/8 pickup tube(melling # 20-is5) The custom torque converter is the better choice. Will be best on performance. Probably hold up the longest. Just all around better unit. If you want to use a less expensive converter, I suggest this and it’s on sale. https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/60400/10002/-1 It’s a tight fit. As any aftermarket converter should be , with tighter tolerance. You may need to tap in with rubber mallet. As far as your over 100 mph thing, Fuel supply. Gas filter ( which a avs does not have so you will need an inline one down near fuel pump) , weak fuel pump, 50 year old rubber hoses that can actually suck air thru the tiny cracks in the rubber. Plugged air vent for fuel tank. Any of these can affect fuel pressure to carb. You should check and eventually replace this stuff due to age. Check your suspension also, bushings are 50 years old , rubber gets old. Could have extra tire drag /alignment problems, slowing you down at such speed. .
Will getting the block surfaced require the whole rotating assembly and everything to come out? How are freeze plugs installed? An engine shop would have to do all of this I'm assuming?
Yes. You will need to pull crank and rods. Freeze plugs tap in with hammer. But if your not ok with it have someone do. cam bearing needs a special tool. You can probably do crank and rods , but will need a ring compressor and rod bolt protectors.
I'm the second owner and it only has 60,000 miles. Was owned by a lady before me. It was never hot rodded. If I don't surface the Block and the heads is it pretty much a guarantee it will Leak with the metal gaskets? I really don't want to have to remove crank. I could definitely see about getting the heads resurfaced though if that would make a difference.
It takes more and more HP as you go faster to overcome air resistance, which rises exponentially. 100 MPH is moving. You are reaching the limits of the engine power. Air resistance is a big factor. At the track, you gain much more speed in the first 1/8th of a mile, than you do in the second 1/8th. The reason is the rise in air resistance.
When you get the heads off, check the block. Run a fingernail across it. I can’t say it will seal without seeing it. But 50 years old. I’m thinking it may not have a great surface. Even with coolant you get some rust or pits. Head Resurface may help. But you can just have them take an extra cut or two and use fel pro gasket.only 60,000 , bottom end may be decent condition and I would not want to rip it apart either.
In my case yes, but I also did a cam and intake change at the same time on an otherwise stock but rebuilt 455. It doesn't sound like you are trying to build a race car so it will be fine in my opinion. Quadrajets are excellent carbs too when properly set up but it sounds like you already have the Edelbrock. Mine idles great, starts easy and pulls to the redline easily, so will a well built Quadrajet. It sure doesn't feel like it's loosing 50 horsepower through the range to me. Ken
Read that article carefully.. they are not saying that AVS carb will add 80 ft lbs... in their test, they tried to pull an LS motor on the dyno, down to 1800 rpm.. something very difficult to do, and a totally un-natural load for that engine and carb. In that weird instance, the annual booster carb fattened it up so it ran smooth, and sure, you will see huge number differences vs an engine that is spitting and bucking. That said, I have never tried that carb, I might have to get ahold of one, and do a real true dyno test, followed by street driving impressions, and track times. I am always looking for something new and better.. JW
Yep, I understood that. Whether the gains are that good or not alot of people are reporting efi type throttle response and that the annular booster is making a huge difference. I cant wait to try it. They make an offroad version too that I plan to buy for my k20 pickup.
