When to run a stall converter?

The motor is tore apart. I read your link here. I'll probably try doing it.

 

I have access to one

 

getting this baby degreased. What's the "4" under 350 represent?

 

This is where I'm at on the project. How far in on the sides should I go? Also, call me crazy but I took a belt sander to the exhaust side of the head to clean them up. Lots of gasket residue of some sort. Belt sander Worked great and was fast!

The valve spring compressor tool I have requires being bolted to the head. It's meant for chevy stuff I think. It's just a L shape bar with a hole in it. Anyway to make it work with buick heads?

 

Spring compressor, not without work. Maybe if you bolt some kind of shaft across shaft pedestals. Try the autozone tool rental. It’s only like 35 bucks for a new one. They charge you that and give you the money back when you bring tool back. Exhaust should not have a gasket. Should be carbon and rust.
You can put the gasket over it and mark an outline with a marker a thick one. Then head towards marker. Should be more then enough since your not going with bigger valves. The work at a decent contour of valve guide.

 

How far in do I go when porting? My bits are only 3 inches long. Carbon and rust sounds about right. Can that surface be pretty rough or should I smooth it out with some finer paper?

 

For what its worth listen to these guys, the things that seem minor will make drastic improvements, simple and cheap stuff such as setting your timing per Larrys article will really wake the engine up. And the time and money spent on the heads is just as important as the camshaft choice.

 

You will need some longer bits.
You need to reach all the way thru. From both sides. larrys posted article shows bits and some rear good information. But it is time consuming,especially the gasket match of the openings. That’s why I say stick to the area around valve guide and valve opening. Read the article, check out what he’s doing. And if you have a inside measure to keep them all similar in size. Should be able to fine something like this cheap. Just to make each port close in size.
And keep in mind he put in bigger valves so he needed more air flow. So he had to open up more.

 

I've read through some of this already. I have the pics all saved. I snooped around all of these message boards for a long time before I joined. I don't plan to port to this extent so I just kind of wanted to know what will make a difference on my build? Figure I could reach into the ports a couple inches if that doesn't make a difference at all then I'm probably screwed because I already spent $80 on these bits.

 

what's the "4" under 350 ?

 

I've never ported heads before but I've seen some being done. Clean up and deburr was my main goal at first but I will reach in as far as I can with these bits I have. I do own a pair of digital calipers. So I'll be able to get them close to same size. I dont plan on taking so much off that I break through a water port. Is there a benefit to only going 3 inches into the port?

 

I tried my hand at porting a set of 72 455 heads. In the end after about 20 hrs of f*ing with the castings, and the $100 to flow the heads, I only gained something like 10 cfm. There are much better ways to spend your time and money. Put the money into tuning your combo, and getting the best parts available if you're stuck using stock heads.

 

Im no expert on heads either but I spent a total of like $2,300 to have my heads professionally done. your gain of 10 cfm sounds pretty good to me for what it cost you?

 

I read an post last night about a harmonic balancer sleeve to protect new front seal. Will this be something that I need to address? Or is it just one of them things that could potentially be an issue?

 

Well here’s the flow sheet. You be the judge. It was an “eh” experience. Could have been done better