Which Flow Through filter top to use?

I currently only install my factory cold air filter for shows otherwise, I run a 14" chrome open element filter with a K&N element installed. I want to pick up one of the high-flow tops and find prices all over the place. K&Ns are running $80+. I've found one sold by Speedway Motors called the "Super Flow" that sells for less than $40 with free shipping. Is anyone using this top and is it as good as the K&N for half the cost?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075NMHRCY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1FJ1WMPKJVUMQ&psc=1

 

The dyno tests I've seen uniformly show that those stupid filter-lids ERASE horsepower.

You do NOT want one. Money saved, mistake avoided.

 

What's the logic behind that? Is it a velocity thing?

 

I've heard its a turbulance thing. for whatever reason, the air coming in from the top and from the side dont play well together at RPM

 

Well, I'll just save some money, then. Thanks, gents.

 

I run the Speedway top because of the low drop of my L88 base.
The air would have to make a 90 degree anyway with the orig chrome top. This way air comes in from all sides and top, similar to running no air cleaner that most guys will do at the track for no restriction what so ever.

The K&N filter & Speedway top both get dirty from air flow, so it must be pulling in air from both.

Haven't tried testing both lids at track yet but will this year..

Definitely remove the fiberglass under hood insulation whatever cleaner you run.

 

Hypothesis: Air velocity coming in from the top screws up the idle and/or the main air bleeds.

 

Engine Masters made a video about it.. The engine used is in a engine dyno, so no wind or hoods to clear.. IIRC, the filter that made most hp was a vertical cone, and the filter top questioned now, also picked up some..

 

Velocity stack?

 

Same scenario here, I looked at my drop base, and the hump is just slightly higher than the top of the carb opening, so that was my reasoning for using the open top K&N, without the open top filter, it looks like the airflow would be super restricted with just the drop base, filter, and a closed top.
Whatever the scenario, the air still has to make a 90 degree turn.

 

Yep, especially with the added 1" tapered spacer cramming things up against the underside of hood.

Mark, you need an aluminum intake.....

 

I know I know, AND 4.10 gears and overdrive
I'll make due with my iron single plane hi rise

 

Yep.. Going from a big diameter to a smaller.. Increases flow..

Just didn't know the right names

 

Mark, you're sucking in all this dusty crap...

 

The best compromise IMO is to ditch the spacer, run a smooth drop-base (not the L88 style, too big of a drop) and a solid top with your filter.

 

Oh oh, new stuff to try,
time for more experimenting.

As long as I have the clearance for fuel line & linkage.

 

3” Wix Racing paper filter, Allstar Perf (I think) filter base, Qjet and is good for 10’s and is very streetable (details in sig). I can’t fit a 4” filter, so a 1” spacer won’t work either.

 

Bob,
Think that base will clear a Holley HP?
I didn't see float bowl clearance areas. Some bases won't.