Hi gang.... I've been stalled on pulling the posi unit out of an old axle since I don't have any power tools. Might this bugger on ebay help me out? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4649591483 Has anyone else used something different to get the yoke/pinion nut off?
I use a piece of old bed frame angle iron. All you need to do is make it about 2-3 feet long and drill 2 holes. You want the holes to be the same distance apart as the U-bolt holes or screw holes in your pinion yoke. Mount the bar and the then us a breaker bar to loosen the pinion nut.
The e-Bay tool should work, along with a piece of pipe. It would not make a good yard tool, as the big rectangular shaped head is too big. Many times, under vehicles, one is fighting the tool up between tailpipes to get to the pinion. The best pinion flange tool I've ever used was the dealership tool Kent Moore J-8614-10. These are a contoured cast iron piece, & are very tough to find for sale, esp with the puller attachment. I gave looking for one on eBay years ago. Ck any GM service manual from the 70's in the Differential section & you will see a pic of this tool & the attachment. To make a somewhat copy of the Kent Moore tool, I ended up taking my good friend's original tool to local steel supplier. They digitized the shape & cut several blanks out of near 1/4" steel. Later, after bending two of these 1st versions at the "neck" (crushing 12 bolt crush sleeves), I went back & had same design lazer cut out of thicker steel. Actually had several made & used to sell them at swappers. As a matter of practice, I usually carry a thinner version with me when yarding & use one of the thicker versions when building rears. Got Posi? :3gears: Roger
Thanks guys! I've seen the tool in the service manual, and even asked around a couple of the local gm shops...I just get the "deer in the headlights" look. Mmmm. Bed frame section. I might be able to do that. Should I drill the holes as close to the center? I've already bent a couple of pry bars on this bugger. Time, Money, Tools. I never seem to have all three in the right amount!
The bed frame side rail I use is about 3/16" thick and it is a very hard, heat treated steel piece. I drilled the holes in the center of the flat so when I mount it on the yoke, it will not move. I can send a pic of it, if you want to see the detail. I kept mine to 2 feet so it fits inside my yarding tool box. I mount it on the yoke at the salvage yards and let it hit the floor pan when I break the pinion nut loose. I use a Craftsman 1/2" breaker bar and have never failed to remove the pinion nut from any rear axle. If you just want to remove the posi unit as you stated initially......you don't need to mess with the pinion nut. If you want the gear set, then you need to remove the pinion and ring gear.
Thanks for the tips, George. Yes I need the pinion, 'cause it's a 2.xx posi, and I'll need the pinion to swap over into my 3.x one legger on the yacht. I thought I could use the whole axle, but the sides are pretty long gone. I understand what you're saying....the times I've tried to loosen the bugger up has only been pry bars, and cressent wrenches. That surely didn't provide the needed leverage. Since you mentioned it, I remember a good mechanic friend of mine that told me a while back.....bed frames make great projects/tools/etc, especially for welding lessons! p
