I did the same thing to mine and my master cylinder cap. I then went and got some rattle can Duplicolor clearcoat and laid 4 coats over each of them. Holding strong after 2 years and easy to clean. Parts look like the day I cleaned and detailed them.
Now I have a bunch of extra that I need to return. I ordered a dashpot bracket, dashpot, and transmission lines from The Parts Place. The dashpot bracket puts the dashpot in the wrong spot, doesn't even touch the carb arm. The dashpot looks good but is a universal style and has extra length and you are supposed to cut it to length which I would rather not do since the cut end won't have any plating on it. The transmission lines aren't even close to the right length - The vertical run that connects to the top port on the radiator is several inches too short. So its all going back. I dug around in my parts stash and found a used dashpot and bracket so I am cleaning that up and will be using it. On a more positive note I also got Power Brake pedal cover for my '70 from The Parts Place and it really looks good. Has anyone ordered automatic transmission cooler lines for a '67 Gs400 from a supplier that fit?
Tried twice from Inline Tube and they failed on both attempts. One set was too long, the other too short. I'm done dealing with that joint. They wanted me to send them my original lines so they could copy them. I don't think so! I'm just going to bend my own when I get around to it.
The manifold and all the brackets that mount to it is about done. I am going to install it after I get the heat crossover plugs. That's an extra choke stat shown in the photo, the one I will use is out getting re-plated. The photo below shows the ultimate combination of completely useless/hard to find stuff. These are smog parts from 4 different 1967 Big Block Buicks. I had to scrounge all that up to get one complete system for my car. I am trying to figure out which pump looks best so I can start with that one.
Does anyone know what is involved in uninstalling a shift kit from a transmission? I want to take my transmission back to stock.
Stacey, the choke thermostat rod is still mangled. Who did that carb? Some things seem odd on it to me. The shift kit should be removeable, it really depends on which kit is and what was done. The lower level kits usually call to remove a ball bearing type ball or more and sometimes open a passage or 2 up by drilling a larger size hole. The balls can be added back in, the plate can be replaced. Upper level kits have a lot more to them. Then, back in those days rodders would do different things to them w/o buying kits. I'm not really a tranny guy at all. How do you know it has a shift kit in it? Does it just shift too hard? It could be other stuff.
That is the original tweaked choke stat linkage in the photo. The un-tweaked one that I will be using is out getting re-plated. Cliff Ruggles at Cliff's High Performance rebuilt the carburetor. The previous owner mentioned the shift kit and I can tell by the 1-2 shift harshness that it has one. I have 2 spare 1967 switch pitch transmissions so I should have enough parts to take it back to stock, If I can just figure out what it needs.
I am looking at you from the bottom of the proverbial slippery slope - I dropped a hose clamp in the engine and it rolled past the cam and I heard it CLINK onto the windage tray. Can I pull the engine/tranny without removing the core support?
OK back at it after a long period of family and work obligations that kept me out of my shop. I started by reinstalling the seatbelts which I had restored by Ssnake Oyl. They came out really nice and include new labels with correct date codes. The last photo shows the belts installed in back. The Fisher body manual shows the mounting bracket orientation flipped 180 degrees from what you see below. It seems like the webbing of the belts would rub on the edge of the sheetmetal cutouts in that orientation. I must not have taken photos when I pulled them out. I also tried to deduce which way the labels face by the witness marks left by the fasteners that bolt the brackets to the body. If I am correct the latch side of the belt has the labels facing down and the clip side has them facing up. Does anyone know which is correct? I removed the distributor to have Todd at DC Musclecars restore it and swap it over to electronic ignition. I also started getting ready to pull the engine. Since I have to pull it to get that hose clamps out of the oil pan, I might as well re-gasket it and paint everything.
I don't know what is "correct" on the seat belt labels, but any time I've installed them, I put it so the label is down when I'm buckled in. Just looks cleaner when you're in the car, and at shows or cruises I buckle the belts so the labels are hidden and there's nothing to catch your eye but nice black and chrome belts.
I think I will swap them around so labels face down. The bracket in the photo below came off the brake booster vacuum hose from my parts car. I didn't get a photo before I removed it. I am going to use in on my convertible; does anyone know what location it is meant to bolt to? Is it painted engine color or black?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rsd-atc6805/?tab=Overview These cooler lines fit my 67. I can't speak to whether the bends are the same as oem or not but length wise and fitting size they were good to go.
Winter is now summer. Still working on this thing. Got the parts below back from the plater: Everything turned out nice but knowing what I know now, I probably should have just painted some of the parts. Below is a comparison between the battery cable block bracket on the right that has been plated with Zinc Phosphate and the accelerator pedal linkage on the left that I painted with Eastwoods Zinc Phosphate spray paint. The accelerator bracket looks much darker in the photo than it actually is and is a pretty good match to the plating on the right. I decided to paint it instead of plating it because of the plastic and rubber parts that are permanently attached to the assembly. I would recommend the Eastwoods paint if you have any Zinc Phosphate parts. Be sure and wear a respirator when painting though, it smells like it will turn your lungs to jelly. This is the original, date code correct brake booster from my '67 car. Re-plated and rebuilt. As I mentioned in an earlier post the reproduction parts have a sharper corner at the point of the pie-shaped indentations and are easy to spot if you know what you are looking for. For my car at least (can't say if this is true for all 1967 GS cars) the straight plastic check valve as shown is correct, not the 90 degree version.
Looks great Stacey. I am waiting for a/c parts to arrive and for my condenser and evaporator to be flushed and pressure tested. Then comes reassembly for me!
While disconnecting stuff get ready to pull the engine, I pulled the console and shifter assembly and let the shifter soak in Evaporust overnight. It was originally unpainted except for the chrome bits so I primed it and repainted it with Eastwood raw metal paint. It was one of those weather days in Minnesota that makes you wonder why anyone would live anywhere else so I got the '65 for a spin between coats of paint. Don't worry, 6 months from now there will be a series of weather days that will make me wonder why anyone in their right mind lives here at all.
Had the red convertible out yesterday afternoon and evening here in Fort Worth for a monthly large car show event. Probably 200 cars but mine the only GS400 and got lots of compliments. Went to the show to hand out flyers for our downtown Fort Worth Wheels for Wellness show in September where we will have 450 -500 cars. After the sun went low in the sky here it got almost pleasant with a nice breeze and in the shade, probably 92-94 but felt cooler. Enjoying your step by step updates. Keep it up
I started pulling the front end apart so I can pull the engine. I found that whoever painted the car before I bought it either used a random collection of nuts and bolts when they put the grill back on the car or just left fasteners off in some cases. I will be looking for replacement fasteners for that area. I also need to find one of the plastic headlight bezel mounting wells. This is the plastic standoff that attaches to the core support and which the headlight door screws into. One of mine is cracked. I also test fit the Smog pump system and made sure I have all the parts. Looks like I am only missing one short hose. I also ordered a flocking kit for the console this morning. Got this far before running out of time. The Air Conditioning condenser is almost the same size as the radiator! Does anyone know where I can find one of these? It's the cracked plastic standoff at 10:00 o'clock near the headlight ring.
I would check with Cole, I believe he has access to a few '67's............http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?members/cole.1467/
