"X" pipe install

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by Steve S, Apr 8, 2017.

  1. Steve S

    Steve S Well-Known Member

    I'm installing a Torque Tech X pipe system on my Skylark and would like to know if anyone else has a side picture of how the "X" sits. Is it level with the headers or pointed up? The mufflers are higher than the outlet of the X so the pipes point up. I don't really see any way to get the x part to point up without some fancy angled cuts on the pipe coming out of the header. Its a 3.5" in 3" out X if that matters. Just looking to get it tucked up as best I can. Thanks.
     
  2. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    Yea it's best to Jack rear end up and put the X about 1.5 to 2in under the driveshaft, that allows enough rear suspendion movement for most situations. Order some 2 120° bends and 2 45's from Summit and come straight off the headers and push up the X and use the angles to hit the mufflers good and square, that's going to allow the muffs to sit square, tailpipes to fit as they should and get max clearance along with be aesthetically pleasing
     
  3. Msharkf2

    Msharkf2 Well-Known Member

    When I installed my 3" Torque Tech system, I was very anal about the tail pipes looking even and in the correct location. After fooling around with everything for a couple of days, I ended up working from the back (tailpipes) forward. It ended up working the best for me that way as the 3" tailpipes are tough to fit without them hitting or rubbing somewhere as they go over the axle. Its a very tight fit for the 3" tailpipes. So I was able to get them where they needed to be and then fit the rest of the system to the tailpipes. I also wanted the mufflers to look level as seen from the rear of the car. On the "X" pipe (mine is 3") I also cut off the top reinforcement plate on the "X" pipe. This is a small, thin (about 1/8 thick) piece that it is about 2 1/2" square and it is welded on to help keep the "X" pipe joint strong. There is one on the top and bottom side. I did this so that I could tuck the "X" pipe up as tight as I could to the driveshaft. I checked this with the car at ride height. I also didn't want the "X" pipe to be seen from the side of the car. I have my "X" pipe very close to the driveshaft, like about 1/2" -3/4". I figured most of the travel of the rear end would be upwards (squatting) as in launching the car at the track, which moves the driveshaft away from the "X" pipe. The driveshaft never touched the exhaust. You just have to remember to jack the car up under the rear end and to support the car under the rear end on jack stands and not by the frame. If you let the rear end sag you could damage the driveshaft. I did use some additional pieces up front, between the headers and the front of the "X" pipe to make it work. I also took alot of time to make sure both pipes that slid into the front of the "X" pipe were square, so that I could slide the "X" pipe off and run open headers if I wanted to. If they are not square and parallel, you can't remove the "X" pipe by itself. I used band clamps in these areas so that I could remove the "X" pipe easily and my mufflers are supported in the front so that I leave them and the tailpipes on the car when I run open headers, by just removing the "X" pipe alone.This is just how I did mine. Hope it helps and good luck. Just take your time, you will be rewarded for doing so.
     
    Steve S likes this.
  4. BrianTrick

    BrianTrick Brian Trick

    If you have your car in a lift,or if you jack the rear of the car up,to let the rear hang,will the X still clear the driveshaft? You might not ever lift your car that way,but any dip in the road could make your suspension travel farther than you think. Not saying you did anything wrong,just trying to prevent anything from getting damaged. An exhaust system is one of those more time-consuming jobs because I want everything level and perfect.
     
  5. 70 GMuscle

    70 GMuscle Plan B

    My 3" x is pointed up a bit at rear.
    It is tight in car.
    Driveshaft movement is critical and make sure you have room for driveshaft loop.
    I also highly recommend flanges on rear of muffler and front of tailpipe.
    I can remove complete x and mufflers in 1 piece leaving tail pipes hanging in car and headers in place to service transmission if need be.
    Makes system fully serviceable.
    I have 3" flanges and header gaskets separating them at back.
    Well worth it to me.
     
    Steve S likes this.
  6. Steve S

    Steve S Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the replies guys. I did weld my flanges at a slight upward angle and left about 1.5" between driveshaft and X when the rear is hanging free. Used flat muffler clamps (came with kit marked "muffler') at the front of the muffler so I can get the pipes apart if need be. I don't think these collapse the pipe as bad as the regular clamps.
     

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