Sport Mirrors - The ones on the 76 Riv were pretty good. Some light scratches on the mirror surface of both. The housings were nice; no cracks or chips. The right side one is manual, the left cable adjusted. The adjustment operation is 'lazy'. $25 for the pair. On a side note, the intrerior trim is nice as well. Both pullhandles were there in one piece; same for the chrome/woodgrain panels. One of the Centurys did have sportmirrors. The housings are in nice shape, but the mirror was missing from the passenger side. Looks like they just popped the ball out of the socket & you'd be able to snap another in. The driver's side mirror was still there, but cracked in half. $10 for the pair.
'68 Riv parts: Disc brakes - probably. Someone was very careful in removing every last piece of the front suspension & steering components. Cowl Seals - appear to be there. Difficult to get to. The hood and hinges are damaged & doesn't open well. Headlight door actuators - rusted solid (the car has been under water - part of the yard flooded a few years ago). Manual AC cable - we may finally have good news from this car: All the knobs work smooth and snug. Going to be a real treat getting it out though. Doors are wedged shut, interior's about half full of weeds & muck. Price: Free as long as they don't have to remove it. :laugh:
David Gramlow: I have your fuel line. The corners of the nut by the carb are just slight rounded. I did it that even using a flare wrench - that one was tight!!!! Price: free. He felt he owed me yet for a couple of used-up derby-car shells I gave him this summer. Does this wheel look like a 15x7 to you? I can't jack the car up to pull one very easily - there's another car on top of this one. Anyone know what size was stock on a mid-70's Century Luxus?
76 Sport Mirrors- I'd like to get the mirrors. What is the next step? My email is cvs1961@hotmail.com. Since the interior is in good shape, do you know if it's a split bench or bucket seat? What color is it? Carl
69 Sportwagon trim: The "Sportwagon" script is in ok condition. Not pitted, but very faded. Would need to be polished & repainted to be put on a nice car. The chrome trim on the gas-tank filler is decent. Both taillights are missing. The bezels are there, but pitted and or bent/broken. The "400" tag is missing on the driver's side. I doublechecked the rear quarters again. The drivers side is shot; rusted badly and bent. The passenger side is straight, but torn as in the picture. The entire drivetrain is gone.
64 Riv - SORRY - the one car I forgot to go back to! I should be there again tomorrow morning, will check then. I remember the drivetrain was gone as was most of the interior.
Re: tilt steering column Aluminum engine and a fiberglass body?? Have to tie it down when the wind blows??? heehee Thanks for the revenge on the steering column!!! :laugh: :laugh:
It looks to be a 15" rim, but I do not know if it would likely be 6" or 7". I can't use a 6" rim, and I don't imagine you can find out without pulling it. Tell you what, pass on any rim that isn't in very nice condition, similar to the pic I'm posting. I'm willing to spend market value $$ to buy the remaining rim I need, if you don't see any really nice ones there. Thanks for checking this out Greg, I owe ya! And for the fuel line too :TU:
Too bad about that cable, but no worries I'll try to have it made Rivman: Regarding the headlight actuators, did you see my earlier thread about this issue? You can use the actuator from a 68-69 Camaro RS with a slight modification... Here is the thread
Why too bad? Just because it'll be a challenging job doesn't mean I'm not going to do it... :TU: Or can you tell from the pics its not going to be the right cable?
Oh I thought you meant you wouldn't be able to get it From the picture it looks like this car indeed has the manual a/c! It should be an easy disconnect in the engine bay, its the cable with a red piece of plastic located on top of the heater box (see photo). Let me know what you want for it if you get it.. inside the car it may be a bit harder to disconnect it, someone told me earlier that you could remove the ignition switch and work through there but I didn't try this yet. :beer
Hood / Cowl seals - Vaccumm Pots Greg - looks like you had quite a list to check! If the seals are accessible and in decent shape for a reasonable $ I'll take em - if not then 'thanks' for taking the time to scope it out!
Manual AC Cable Greg / Bjorn - The hardest part of removal is disconnecting the cable from the control panel, as it is not accesible unless the control unit is free off the dash panel. You may get at it with ignition switch removed, but I don't think it will give you enough access. The plastic cable ends are very easy to break, particularily @ the control unit end as they seem to get brittle with age, and have very little 'flex' tolerance.
83Stage1, Is the 'local junkyard' happen to be Johnson's? It looks kinda familiar but I havent been there since 1989. Rob
Johnson's is a great junkyard but really muddy in the spring (but I guess they all are arent they). I visited it when I was going to school at BSC. I am originally from the Minot area. Later, Rob
