I get many questions about what does it take to run turbo's through a carburetor. So I have composed a list of Item's that I would use to turbo any Carbureted car in the future. Note that not all of these parts are required this is just the easiest way that I know to make the tuning easy.
1. 65 psi 450 lbs/hr 8an in and 6an out $210 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3137/
2. Bypass regulator $68 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-12-803bp/
3. Boost reference conversion kit $10 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RPU-5006/
4. Instead of parts 2+3 you can use http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-13301/
5. Blow threw Demon Carb 850 for the 455 for $600 Ebay seller richdesbiens
6. Wide band AFR gauge kit $200 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AVM-30-4223/
7. Carb jet kit $50 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-36-181/
8. Jet tool $10 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-62293/
9. Water/Alcohol Injector $375 http://www.alcohol-injection.com/dvc...age-2-305.html
10. And of course one of Burton Machines Turbo Kits $1995 Call 509-860-3370 ask for Mark. Do not be afraid to call mark, he is very helpful.
Items 4,5,6,7,8,9 are not required
1. The fuel pump needs to be mounted no higher than the lowest point of the gas tank. I would suggest that you put a bung on the bottom at the back of the tank and mount the fuel pump right there. The pump must be able to pump 6psi + what ever amount of boost you will be making. So if you are going to be running 9psi then you need a pump that will push at least 15 psi. It is better to go to big than to small.
2. You may need to put in larger fuel lines. I ran 1/2" but 3/8" will be fine with this pump. I think you could even get away with 5/16"(Stock).
3. Next you need a Bypass style regulator. You may get the one that has the boost reference port built into the regulator part no. 4 or you may replace the adjustment bolt with part no. 3 this will convert a standard bypass style to a boost reference bypass. you will then need to run a vacuum line from the port to the carb hat. You must have a return line that goes from the regulator back to the tank.
4. You may opt out of purchasing a Blow thru Demon carb and just modify your carb to take the boost. I prefer not to go that route, I just purchase a Demon Blow thru carb, no fuss no muss.
5. You many get lucky and your car will run just fine with stock jets. I doubt it. I would just get the jet kit. You will need the tool as well because if you don't you will just screw up the jets.
6. Remember, going lean is what usually kills the pistons. Next I would install a Wideband AFR gauge. This is not a requirement but it will be a lot easier to tune. Once I put my Wideband in it took 5 or 6 pulls down my street to get the AFR correct by swapping out bigger and bigger and bigger jets. I had to go up 10 sizes.
7. All turbo's heat the intake charge, so some sort of inter cooling will help you to produce more power. It will also allow you to run more boost without killing the pistions. I choose to run a chemical inter cooler (water/alcohol injector). This not only cools the intake charge but it also increases the octane of the fuel. If you are going to run 6psi or less this will not be required. However you will benefit from a cooler intake charge.
8. Bolt on Burton Machine Turbo Kit and run a hose from the carb hat to the bottom port of the waste gates. You will also need to put a 1/4" T fitting in the oil pressure line to fee oil to the top of the turbo's then you will need a large(3/4" ID) hose coming from the bottom of the turbo to the oil pan. You must use a large line because the turbo will froth the oil. I just welded in bungs on the side at the very front of the pan. Make sure that these return lines have a straight path to the oil pan.
9. Pull your timing all the way down to 2-4* initial timing. Get your AFR correct (11.5-12.5) before Moving the timing up. You may increase the timing 1* at a time. If you hear pinging back off the gas as fast as you can, recheck AFR and possibly take more timing out. With a turbo car you need a much smaller advance curve than normal. You may even want to lock the timing at something in the range of 28*. I clamped a camera to my steering column to record the AFR and Boost reading for playback for tuning. You may also have someone ride with you to let you know if the AFR is getting dangerously low. The second method is probably the safest. If you are not in the safe range(11.5-12.5) you might as well just let off the gas and install larger jets.
10. As far as cam's go the less overlap you have the less of a chance you have of your exhaust contaminating the intake charge, this is also called reversion. This happens when the intake and exhaust valves are opened at the same time and the exhaust pressure is more than the intake pressure. The other thing to think of is the lobe separation. the lower the separation the more overlap you will have. But if you go to a higher separation like a 114 the more cylinder pressure it will bleed off at the beginning of the compression stroke. But this shouldn't matter because your boost will compensate for that. All of this mumble jumble means that if you keep your duration around 220 @.05 and the LSA at 114 and install it 4* advanced you should be fine. My cam is @ .050 223int/218ex 114 LSA with .480/.480 lift. Crower is the only cam I have found that is specifically designed for turbo app. Call Crower at 619-661-6477 and they will help you get a cam for your application. A stock cam will work much better than a blower style cam.
11 Enjoy your 600+hp that idles like it is just a stock 150hp sbc. Can you say sleeper. I wish you guys could hear my car in person. I have had a lot of people say that it sounds like a stock small block.
If you drive yours on the street be warned that the massive torque that the turbo makes when it spools will over power the tires at very low RPM's. Mine has caught me off guard several times. It usually goes something like this: I need to just speed up a little to merge or switch lanes and so I press the gas just a little and it builds boost and shifts gears at the same time and breaks the tires loose. Once on a merge the car went sideways at about 1/4 throttle. Another time I was switching lanes at low speeds in town trying to make it to my next turn and almost hit the sidewalk. Although this sounds like a good problem to have just keep this in mind if you decide to let someone else drive your car. As a matter of fact the only place I will let anyone drive my car is at the race track in a straight line.