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  1. #76
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    Delaware
    Posts
    313

    Default Re: A guide to building the lil guy. The Mighty 300

    Quote Originally Posted by 87GN@Tahoe View Post
    TA Performance- TA1513

    Any other Aftermarket Numbers (Fel Pro,Federal Mogul,NAPA,CR,National) other than TA?
    Doug
    1965 Gran Sport Convertible 3 Speed Dual Quad
    1965 455 Thin Pillar Post 11.40@119.8
    1965 Skylark Convertible

  2. #77
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Stroudsburg, PA
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    482

    Default Re: A guide to building the lil guy. The Mighty 300

    Quote Originally Posted by 1965GSDOUG View Post
    Any other Aftermarket Numbers (Fel Pro,Federal Mogul,NAPA,CR,National) other than TA?
    Doug
    Felpro TCS45930
    Big Matt

    '65 Special w/300 V8
    '65 Skylark w/300 V8
    '66 Skylark w/430 big block
    '69 Skylark w/350
    (2) complete 455's waiting to be built

  3. #78
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    The Buick City flint,mi.48506
    Posts
    284

    Default Re: A guide to building the lil guy. The Mighty 300

    231 V-6 is what I used
    Sean Etson
    the BuickCityPsycho
    A.K.A. buick3001964
    64 special worlds fastest 300" buick 12.52@104
    ^^^^^ car gone ,still have the powertrain
    66 Opel Kadett Wagon ( new project )
    JUST WAIT and see
    BPG#1261

  4. #79
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lawrenceburg, Tn.
    Posts
    7,213

    Default Re: A guide to building the lil guy. The Mighty 300

    Well, I just discovered this thread today,,, The 64/65 skylark with the 300 ''optional'' engine, fell just into the top of the old G Stock automatic class back in the late 60's.... based on advertised hp/weight ratio... Buick kept the hp figure very conservitive so it was a class winner...
    Before building a engine , one should determine just what kind of performance he wants to get out of it... back in my day there was zero speed equipment available for the engine and we had to make do with what we could get,,, by scavinging parts off of other cars and basic tricks, like lightening the vehicle or gears and posi's..... I got real good at scrounging wrecking yards and swapping parts...
    I built the ''optional'' engine, kept the switch pitch 2 speed, lightened the vehicle, port matched everything I could... installed bigger exhaust... cold air pkg... ect... I won more , broke less than with any other engine that i have had...
    Now you have good cams, turbos, better mufflers, better transmissions, ect... but you need to make up your mind just what kind of car you want to build...
    If I were going to build a performance 300 today, I would borrow as much GN tech as i could make work....
    There are some things that would have to change, it would have to have forged pistons,,, forged rods, and the crank really needs to be hard chromed... naturally the oil system would need to be blueprinted for performance...
    I regularly turned up to 6000 rpm with my engine and never had a problem, but now I know better.... but better ignition systems and rev limiters that you get now days will take care of that....
    The low budget racing is fun with this engine,,, a good 4 bbl intake , [I dont know if it would take the ''Doc dual plane'' mod or not] i would check it very, very close before doing one to be sure....
    A 600 or so cfm carb would be good....cold air pkg...
    a good cam....anti pump up lifters and good valve springs...
    what ever head work the rules alllow...
    port matched factory exhaust manifolds with bigger pipes and mufflers...
    a good trans,,,[switch pitch] / gear ratio/posi. ect....
    air lift air bags inside the rear springs....
    Do your homework, research the project X 57 chevrolet that was in the rod books in the late 60's and do the car like that,,, you will have a lot of fun for a little money....
    brings back memories....
    Doc "Widely unknown"

  5. #80
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    East Central Oregon
    Posts
    136

    Default Re: A guide to building the lil guy. The Mighty 300

    OK, well on the 300, can anyone tell me the cfm flow volumn difference on the discharge ports of the 2bbl intake VS 4bbl intake. I know matting faces are identical, but do they change anywhere within. If ya follow my madness, can it be done.
    Thanks
    Wil

  6. #81
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lawrenceburg, Tn.
    Posts
    7,213

    Default Re: A guide to building the lil guy. The Mighty 300

    The ports of the manifold/s both intake and exhaust are sufficent to support a large 4 bbl....with vacume secondaries....
    I am sure that one could improve the heads with a port job.....port match both the intake and the exhaust manifolds... the exhaust manifolds are very well designed....you might check into doing the ''Doc dual plane'' mod to improve the intake manifold....but be very cautious here , because I have never done one of the 300 manifolds and do not know what is possible....I do know that there is a water passage in the manifold and so you need to be carefull if you do it.....
    Doc "Widely unknown"

  7. #82
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Salt Lake City, Utah
    Posts
    941

    Default Re: A guide to building the lil guy. The Mighty 300

    1999 Range Rover valve covers and headers I picked up for cheep. The valve covers look great with a little work.

    The headers need some welding and grinding. The ports are much smaller than the 300 heads (I have the aluminum 64 heads). I ground them out to fit the heads without too much work. The header on the right side is a perfect fit. The header on the left side will need to be cut and welded to clear the steering shaft. I cut about 1/4" pie shape out of the bottom of each pipe next to the mounting plate, bent the plate inward and welded it back up. I don't think these are as good as a long tube header since they have a 2 in 2 design but I think they will be better than the original manifolds and they look great. If you get a set from a wrecking yard make sure you get the down pipe conection. These are 2.5" pipes but they have a strange 3 bolt mounting flange that is not standard. I didn't get the down pipes so I had to modify a 3 bolt plate by slotting out the holes. This makes for a very tight fit on the bolts but it works.



    Brian R.




    Low Flying 1964 Skylark, 355 Wildcat, 200 4R. My build link... http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=213961

    1960 Pontiac Ventura. 2 door, thin pillar bubble top.

    My great cars that got away;
    Totaled 67 Camaro SS RS 350 4 speed.
    69 Camaro RS Convert. Scored 96 out of 100. Investor talked me out of it, it's been collecting dust every since.
    63 Lemans conv, white with red int, rare side skirts, low mile original, also collecting dust in a private collection.

  8. #83
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Bathurst NB
    Posts
    931

    Default Re: A guide to building the lil guy. The Mighty 300

    Need a distributor gear for my 300. Any cross reference on part numbers? I keep getting the "Oh, a Buick 300!, Good Luck!" or "Sorry no listing for that"

    I read some where that any SBC distributor gear will work. Correct?
    Michel A Arseneau
    Bathurst, NB

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iIOpTC85xH067

    340 CI, .30 os, 10.25:1 pistons, 1" spacer, 4bbl, heads mild porting and matched. 100psi springs, Crower cam 50232, recurved distributor with petronix all in at 2200 rpm, ported stk exh. manifolds, 2.5 inch x2 SS Magnaflow exh, 200r4 BFR trani, 2500 Stall D5 TC, 3.23 posi trac, 2 inch drop.

    michel_arseneau@rogers.com

  9. #84
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Stroudsburg, PA
    Posts
    482

    Default Re: A guide to building the lil guy. The Mighty 300

    Quote Originally Posted by CanadianBird View Post
    I read some where that any SBC distributor gear will work. Correct?
    I don't know the answer to this. But a Buick 350 distributor gear should work.
    Big Matt

    '65 Special w/300 V8
    '65 Skylark w/300 V8
    '66 Skylark w/430 big block
    '69 Skylark w/350
    (2) complete 455's waiting to be built

  10. #85
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Bathurst NB
    Posts
    931

    Default Re: A guide to building the lil guy. The Mighty 300

    Quote Originally Posted by Big Matt View Post
    I don't know the answer to this. But a Buick 350 distributor gear should work.
    Yes it will, confirmed by T/A Performance. Till what year can I ask for a 350 buick, more recent the better. T/A shows a different part# with HEI.
    Michel A Arseneau
    Bathurst, NB

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iIOpTC85xH067

    340 CI, .30 os, 10.25:1 pistons, 1" spacer, 4bbl, heads mild porting and matched. 100psi springs, Crower cam 50232, recurved distributor with petronix all in at 2200 rpm, ported stk exh. manifolds, 2.5 inch x2 SS Magnaflow exh, 200r4 BFR trani, 2500 Stall D5 TC, 3.23 posi trac, 2 inch drop.

    michel_arseneau@rogers.com

  11. #86

    Default Re: A guide to building the lil guy. The Mighty 300

    I want to add the T/A stage 1 intake and a cam and lifter set up to my stock 350. Do I need any head work or will the stock heads be fine?

  12. #87
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Arlington, TX
    Posts
    303

    Default Re: A guide to building the lil guy. The Mighty 300

    Might want to re-post elsewhere...this thread is for the 300ci engine !!!
    David

    '64 Skylark Convertible 300/355 Wildcat TH350 Trans

  13. #88
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    26

    Default Re: A guide to building the lil guy. The Mighty 300

    I have 300 in my skylark and it is one reason why i bought it. IT is one off but thats the challenge. Only stock now 310 wildcat but want to warm it up.Want to install 4v carb and manifold and duals(67 iron heads wont change) and posi rear next. ITs a nice cruiser but needs a bump up FRIDAY

  14. #89
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    6

    Default Re: A guide to building the lil guy. The Mighty 300

    Has anyone test fit some of the TA Performance 215 aluminum heads to the 300 yet?

    I'm wondering about performance numbers versus the stock 300 heads, iron or aluminum.

    I've owned three of the little 300 engines in the past. The first was in a 65 skylark with a two barrel carb. It was a daily driver.
    The second was pulled from a 64 LeSabre. It was a two barrel engine with aluminum heads and an aluminum two barrel intake manifold. I put that engine in a 68 Special Deluxe. I raced it a little....

    My last one was in a 65 special. It never ran when I bought the car, so I pulled it and dropped a 350 Buick in. I never knew there was any aftermarket support, or I would have built it up.

    I am considering a 300 build up for a near future project. Somebody please tell me if there is any documented evidence of using the TA heads!

    Thanks for the great info to everyone here!

  15. #90
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    6

    Default Re: A guide to building the lil guy. The Mighty 300

    Also, do the 340 4V intakes and heads fit the 300?

  16. #91
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Bathurst NB
    Posts
    931

    Default Re: A guide to building the lil guy. The Mighty 300

    Quote Originally Posted by wkillgs View Post
    Finally got on Crowers' site to check out their 300/340 cams. What a great selection!
    I just completed the spec sheet and one of their guys called me. His recommendsations were 50232 if it's a daily driver and 50233 if it's a a toy...I am leaning towards the 50232...he mentionned anything smaller may cause detonation issues due to comp ratio...
    Michel A Arseneau
    Bathurst, NB

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iIOpTC85xH067

    340 CI, .30 os, 10.25:1 pistons, 1" spacer, 4bbl, heads mild porting and matched. 100psi springs, Crower cam 50232, recurved distributor with petronix all in at 2200 rpm, ported stk exh. manifolds, 2.5 inch x2 SS Magnaflow exh, 200r4 BFR trani, 2500 Stall D5 TC, 3.23 posi trac, 2 inch drop.

    michel_arseneau@rogers.com

  17. #92
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Stroudsburg, PA
    Posts
    482

    Default Re: A guide to building the lil guy. The Mighty 300

    I've used the 50232 cam in the past and been very happy with it.
    Big Matt

    '65 Special w/300 V8
    '65 Skylark w/300 V8
    '66 Skylark w/430 big block
    '69 Skylark w/350
    (2) complete 455's waiting to be built

  18. #93
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Bathurst NB
    Posts
    931

    Default Re: A guide to building the lil guy. The Mighty 300

    Matt,

    Did you have any issues with retainer to valve guide boss clearance with that lift?
    Michel A Arseneau
    Bathurst, NB

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iIOpTC85xH067

    340 CI, .30 os, 10.25:1 pistons, 1" spacer, 4bbl, heads mild porting and matched. 100psi springs, Crower cam 50232, recurved distributor with petronix all in at 2200 rpm, ported stk exh. manifolds, 2.5 inch x2 SS Magnaflow exh, 200r4 BFR trani, 2500 Stall D5 TC, 3.23 posi trac, 2 inch drop.

    michel_arseneau@rogers.com

  19. #94
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Stroudsburg, PA
    Posts
    482

    Default Re: A guide to building the lil guy. The Mighty 300

    Michel
    That's an excellent question. I wish I had an answer for you, but I put that cam in while I was just out of high school and didn't know enough to check.

    There was no valve to piston interference, originally a 2bbl engine 9:1 comp. However the retainer to guide clearance remains a question. There were no obscene noises, etc and the engine ran great for 60,000 additional miles after the cam swap so I just don't know. Since your engine is assembled it'd be a pain to pull the heads off now; but maybe your shop cut the valve guides for additional clearance when you had the engine apart? What I do now is give Greg Gessler my engine/cam info and have him set the heads/valvesprings/etc up to match. It really helps that he lives about 20-25 minutes away from me.

    But anyway to answer your question I don't know. The fact that the 50232 cam is still less than .500" lift with 1.6 rockers you "might" be okay. But I would check.
    Big Matt

    '65 Special w/300 V8
    '65 Skylark w/300 V8
    '66 Skylark w/430 big block
    '69 Skylark w/350
    (2) complete 455's waiting to be built

  20. #95
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Edmonton Alberta
    Posts
    15,229

    Default Re: A guide to building the lil guy. The Mighty 300

    Quote Originally Posted by KrisW View Post
    Also, do the 340 4V intakes and heads fit the 300?
    The intakes are different and do not interchange. The heads are different as well but do bolt on... The 340 heads would give a change in compression ratio likely.
    __________________________________________________ __________________________________
    My book called Small Block Buick Performance covering the V6, 215, 300, 340, and Buick 350 engines will be released soon.

    http://www.v8buick.com/forumdisplay....rformance-Book
    __________________________________________________ ____________________________
    1970 Buick Skylark Turbo 350 street/strip

  21. #96
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    Sep 2009
    Location
    Stroudsburg, PA
    Posts
    482

    Default Re: A guide to building the lil guy. The Mighty 300

    As far as I know the 300 and 340 heads are identical???
    Big Matt

    '65 Special w/300 V8
    '65 Skylark w/300 V8
    '66 Skylark w/430 big block
    '69 Skylark w/350
    (2) complete 455's waiting to be built

  22. #97
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Edmonton Alberta
    Posts
    15,229

    Default Re: A guide to building the lil guy. The Mighty 300

    I guess I should clarify that there are 3 different types of 300 heads:

    1. the 64 Alum heads
    2. the 65 Iron heads
    3. the 66 Iron heads

    Looking at a casting #1374870 (65 300) compared to the casting #1376330 (66 300/340) the intake passages look different to me, I should cc the chambers.
    __________________________________________________ __________________________________
    My book called Small Block Buick Performance covering the V6, 215, 300, 340, and Buick 350 engines will be released soon.

    http://www.v8buick.com/forumdisplay....rformance-Book
    __________________________________________________ ____________________________
    1970 Buick Skylark Turbo 350 street/strip

  23. #98
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    82

    Default Re: A guide to building the lil guy. The Mighty 300

    Hi all,

    There is a lot of decent info on this thread but I would like something more specific. I have a 64 300 wildcat 310 in my 64 Special. I have acquired a 64 4bbl intake. The motor is stock with 95k on the odometer. I am looking to have the engine rebuilt. Could someone please provide a parts list and a list of machining mods that should be done to this engine to obtain a streetable rod. All the talk of stroking with a 350 crank and turbos and such really distract from this thread as they are all theoretical. This will be a N/A motor.
    I am looking for specific information such as.

    1. Oiling Mods I should have my machinist perform/part number for oil pickup tube if oil pickup is drilled out.
    2. Current available cam/lifter/valve spring/rocker options.
    3. Piston/Rod options.
    4. Timing Cover mods oil pump mods etc., will a rover timing cover work with a distributor as I like the option of a crank driven oil pump.
    5. Front and rear seals I would like to go to neoprene instead of old school.

    Basically I was hoping this thread would give a definitive parts list and modification list to beef up this little motor which I don't believe this thread does.

    Thanks!

    Kelly

  24. #99
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    6

    Default Re: A guide to building the lil guy. The Mighty 300

    Well, first off, building a MIGHTY 300 (this thread) would imply some performance talk. So, take it easy on those of us who are looking to do some radical work.

    A call to TA Performance will show you a plethora of cam/valve train combos. So many, in fact, that it may be difficult to choose what you want!

    The rods and crank are pretty tough in stock form. TA can blueprint those, since they can blueprint 350 rods. I am pretty sure you can use aftermarket Buick V6 rods as well, since the 300 is on the same architecture as the 231 V6. I know if you bore your 300 .050 out, you can use standard 231 pistons and rods with no problem at all.

    Rover timing cover should work fine, according to the stroker 300 article (the one where they put the 350 crank in)

    Buick V6 neoprene seals should work.

    As to oiling mods, I have two books that I consult. The first one is the Buick Power Source (turbo V6 manual) and the second is a high performance Buick engine book that I bought from eBay.

    Both books point to some key things to do. First, you need to buy the TA Performance grooved front cam bearing. Its pretty much a must on all Buick V8 rebuilds except the nailhead. I also like to gasket match the timing cover and engine block where the oil passages go. I gasket match the block to pickup tube as well. My books also speak of boring out the main oil galley in the block to 9/16", and using a die grinder with a round bit to smooth all the transitions in the oil galleries that you can get to. I used to cut a groove in the front cam bearing hole, but now that TA makes that slick bearing I don't do it anymore. I also chamfer all the oil holes at the main bearing bores.

    TA has all the big pickup tubes and everything else. You should call them and download their catalog so that you can peruse it.

    Good luck on your rebuild!

  25. #100
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lawrenceburg, Tn.
    Posts
    7,213

    Default Re: A guide to building the lil guy. The Mighty 300

    I built my 300 ''back in the day'' when you had to do everything the hard way.... now days you have good cams, good ign. systems, good valve springs ect... but basicly the engine is a 6000 rpm engine,, no more.... and I regularly wound mine up that tight and it lived... no problems,,, but you have to remember that the crank is cast iron, not steel... so to really trick one out , a man could have it hard chromed and ground to spec... that would improve the durability of it.... then you have to deal with the rod/piston situation,,, for street/strip stock rods, and pistons are fine,,, but buy forged pistons if you can afford them... that is what I used... forged trw's.... oil mods,, just use your brain.... you can enlarge the pick up some... blue print the oil pump,,, ect....
    use good tri-clad bearings... and all steel timing chain and gears.... run a 180 deg. thermostat with a oversize radiator... and a good fan system...with a shroud.... smaller crank pulley would be some benifical but dont get crazy with it.... just a little smaller....
    DDP mod on the intake, with great care, will be very benifical, dist. recurve, and a cold air pkg... all these work very well, because, I have done them and know that they work good... port match the intake, heads, and exhaust manifolds... use a good 3 angle valve job.... roller rockers if you can come up with some....
    switch pitch trans and a good performance gear in the back...
    Lighten the vehicle as much as possible.... firm up the suspension.... good wide tires to get the power to the ground... locker differential....
    Doc "Widely unknown"

 

 
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