Welcome to V8Buick.com.
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 26 to 42 of 42
  1. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Las Cruces NM 88003
    Posts
    1,469

    Default Re: 1977 Skylark S/R

    "vortec" chevy heads (96 - 02 in production vehicles) have a different mounting bolt arrangement, the attaching bolts are vertical like many Ford engines, and require a specific intake that will not be the same as earlier engines. so unless you are starting with heads that are "vortec" there will be a mismatch.

  2. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    9

    Default Re: 1977 Skylark S/R

    Quote Originally Posted by newmexguy View Post
    "vortec" chevy heads (96 - 02 in production vehicles) have a different mounting bolt arrangement, the attaching bolts are vertical like many Ford engines, and require a specific intake that will not be the same as earlier engines. so unless you are starting with heads that are "vortec" there will be a mismatch.
    I was going to post that as well but I looked at his link for the intake and saw that it was a Vortec intake. The traditional sbc intake manifold has 12 bolts to mount it and the vortec uses 8. Also worth mentioning is that fel pro makes a "problem solver" gasket set (ms98000t) that has a great lower intake gasket but I haven't found it separately.

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    39

    Default Re: 1977 Skylark S/R

    Lots of things preventing me from doing this project, mostly my own doing but some of it is a car I've been rebuilding for a loved one. Once I'm done with that, I need to jump on getting rid of a parts car to free up shop space and do a 5 speed swap on my daily driver. THEN I'll be able to start building up the 350 haha. Still haven't found any Vortec 5.7L heads.

    Happened upon a guy wanting to get rid of a couple Q-Jets, and I'm thinking of picking one up and using it for the skylark. He's asking $20 each, and for a carb that sells for 250/300 remanufactured, I think that's a good deal. Especially considering the fact that a rebuild kit is only 30-40 bucks. This way, I wont be out $450 for a new carb. All that can go towards the heads.

    Of course I'll have to get this spreadbore intake instead,

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2116

    but hey, I think it's what, $10 cheaper than the squarebore? Score!



    In other news I have the floor pan and carpet, that's probably the first project I'll tackle once I'm done with all these Hondas. Goodness
    Roland

    Why wasn't I born in the late '50s? I grew up like an old man anyways

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    9

    Default Re: 1977 Skylark S/R

    I bought a 57k mile 4 bolt 5.7 vortec engine for the short block. I won't be needing the heads. I would take $200 for them. If you are interested I will pull them and send you pictures. I am in Grants Pass, OR. PM me as I don't check in real often.

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    39

    Default Re: 1977 Skylark S/R

    PM sent!
    Roland

    Why wasn't I born in the late '50s? I grew up like an old man anyways

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Las Cruces NM 88003
    Posts
    1,469

    Default Re: 1977 Skylark S/R

    Happened upon a guy wanting to get rid of a couple Q-Jets, and I'm thinking of picking one up and using it for the skylark. He's asking $20 each, and for a carb that sells for 250/300 remanufactured, I think that's a good deal. Especially considering the fact that a rebuild kit is only 30-40 bucks. This way, I wont be out $450 for a new carb. All that can go towards the heads.

    A smart decision. a double pumper would be way overkill for that combo. (Auto Trans w/ most likely either a 2.41 or 2.56 rear end) Quadrajets, when properly set up, tuned, and rebuilt if necessary make excellent fuel mixers.

  7. #32
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    39

    Default Re: 1977 Skylark S/R

    Thanks for the input!

    I found out one of them is an 800cfm (larger primary bore), and it was my understanding that they were rare and worth a lot but upon further research I couldn't find any supporting facts. It was missing a lot of parts so I took the 750 anyways. Oh well.
    Roland

    Why wasn't I born in the late '50s? I grew up like an old man anyways

  8. #33

    Default Re: 1977 Skylark S/R

    I like the Q-jets a lot, and use them on all my cars..

    the 800 CFM's aren't all that rare - if you need a divorced (manifold mounted) choke, then any 71-73 Buick 455 carb will work, the last 3 digits of the carb number will end in 540 or 240 for the easiest ones to find. A rebuildable core on e-bay will run you less than 100.00.

    But the 800 CFM carb I like even better is any 2nd generation M4M 76-79 Buick Quadrajet, no matter what it was on. These generally go for pretty cheap as people consider them emissions carbs. They will have a hot air choke set up, but are easily converted to an electric choke. These will require some recalibraton from an expert like Ken from Everyday Performance (Techg8), or Mark (Carmanx?), but are a better design than previous carbs. I look for 76 240 carbs, or 77-79 247 or 249 carbs.

    IMO, if you drive your car anywhere these are better choices than a Holley, and will support a car running well into the 11's in basically stock configuration with no trouble at all.
    Rhett

    65 Gran Sport Convertible
    71 GS455 - Unconfirmed Stage1
    73 Gran Sport Stage1 4spd
    72 Pontiac Grand Ville Convertible

    71 GS455 Conv. 4spd Tribute - Sold, now a Swedish citizen
    66 Corvair Monza 140 4spd Convertible - Sold, presumed Hurricane Sandy victim

  9. #34
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    39

    Default Re: 1977 Skylark S/R

    Thank you for the info and advice! Carbs Unlimited showed that the Quadrajets I have originally came off of Chevy trucks, one of them also had a "Marine" application designation, but I'm sure this guy pulled it off a 78-79 truck. The one I'm using is a R4-4MV, number 17058213. The 800cfm (supposedly off a truck 454) had a lot of missing bits and supposedly California emissions standards.

    I'm excited to rebuild it and put it on the 350, I've always wanted to experiment with Q-Jets and for some reason I thought I'd never have one, but here goes!
    Roland

    Why wasn't I born in the late '50s? I grew up like an old man anyways

  10. #35
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    39

    Default Re: 1977 Skylark S/R

    Slowly getting through some things in the way of this project. Home life, work and other projects still require more attention, but I'm feeling like parts of it will clear up soon.

    Haven't heard back from skylarkgp yet, but still planning on getting those heads. Talked with the local machine shop, who is going to try and compete with the price of a Northern Auto Parts engine kit (ek1900) if I bring them the block.
    Roland

    Why wasn't I born in the late '50s? I grew up like an old man anyways

  11. #36
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    39

    Default Re: 1977 Skylark S/R

    Ended up having to do the ultra cheap intake and carb swap, used 2101 intake and a rebuilt Qjet (plus waterpump etc.). Change of plans I guess, no time or funds. I have a couple questions;

    Any ideas on hooking up the kick-down cable to the throttle linkage on the 4MV Qjet?

    How do I remove the seat-belt guides on the upper sides of the bucket seats?

    Before



    After
    Roland

    Why wasn't I born in the late '50s? I grew up like an old man anyways

  12. #37
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    39

    Default Re: 1977 Skylark S/R

    Sucked in the rear bumper, I feel proud of my work. Those nuts and bolts get fricken rusty!!

    Before (never had the plastic piece to begin with)






    The end result


    Roland

    Why wasn't I born in the late '50s? I grew up like an old man anyways

  13. #38
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    39

    Default Re: 1977 Skylark S/R

    Okay, having a bit of drivability issues here..

    Before the intake and carb swap, the 305 would at first stumble and nearly die with hard acceleration. Now, with the Quadrajet & EDL 2101 intake, it does the same thing, but only when it's cold (it also backfires out the carburetor). Even more disappointing, when it's (the engine) warm, it doesn't like acceleration at all; it won't stumble and die, it just has terribly slow acceleration. Sometimes it backfires through the carb and sometimes not, but it really bogs down and takes its time getting up to 30/40 MPH. Does this symptom sound like anything super obvious? The carb is balanced/tuned, no intake leaks, timing is at about 10*BTDC, vacuum advance is advancing, I'm at a loss. Don't get me wrong I'm going to do more research and tinker but I thought I'd give asking the forum a shot. Thank you

    Edit: Also worth mentioning is the 305 has new plugs, wires, cap and rotor, recent fuel pump, new water pump and thermostat. The Quadrajet was rebuilt before installing
    Roland

    Why wasn't I born in the late '50s? I grew up like an old man anyways

  14. #39
    No Lift is offline Platinum Level Contributor
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Central PA
    Posts
    2,205

    Default Re: 1977 Skylark S/R

    Pretty much sounds like a normal operating 305. Just had to say that.

    I'd pop the valve covers off and look at each rocker arm as it is running to make sure that all of them at least look like they are lifting up about the same as all the other ones. It will be easy to notice if one or more is not the same after you stare at them for a while. You can do one side at a time which will cut down on the oil flying around. That era's engines were notorious for worn lobes on the cam. Also I'd be looking into a fresh timing chain set even if the cam looks good. That chain is probably stretched a good bit which retards the cam making the engine sluggish and a 305 is already sluggish. If the cam is bad you have to make a decision because at that point I'd be looking into any 350 that doesn't smoke and doesn't have a worn out cam. It is just not worth it to keep spending money for performance parts on a 305. Intake/carb is one thing but having to open the engine is another. If you do need a cam get a SMALL cam for it. Something just one step above stock is all you need. That will keep the low end torque and again the 305 needs all it can get especially with a stock converter and lousy highway gears. I'd like to know where the idea that you need an 800 cfm carb for that engine came from. The only reason it works with the 750 is because of the controlled secondary opening. Hopefully the secondaries aren't popping open too fast at WOT and causing it to sputter or bog. Toss a 1" 4-hole spacer under that carb to get a better draw out of the carb which will perk up the bottom end also.

    You haven't mentioned recurving the distributer. If you haven't done so, do it. 10* timing initial is good but if the mechanical advance in the distributer is too much then the total will be too much and that is not good either. Getting a correct recurve will help with any mods you do. You've got no real chance of top end power with a mostly stock 305 so you need to beef up the lowend and midrange to get the most out of it.
    Mike Pesarchick
    1976 Century 455
    BPG #1572
    NE GSGN #29
    GSCA #8
    Texas Mile 164.4 MPH

  15. #40
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    9

    Default Re: 1977 Skylark S/R

    Use a piece of bailing wire through the spark plug hole to verify that you are on tdc and see where the balancer is pointing. The ring may have slipped on the balancer and you could easily be quite retarded in your timing.

  16. #41
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    39

    Default Re: 1977 Skylark S/R

    Thank you, both of you, for the great tips!

    About the crazy carburetor...I kinda rebuilt it for practice, and then we had that spreadbore intake laying around and I said why not..I almost took up Holley's holiday sale deals to get a smaller squarebore & adapter, but I decided against spending the money. reason being is that I'm selling the car now, don't want to, but I need to cut myself down to at most two cars total, just have too many right now!

    Haven't had much of the intake backfiring, I don't know if that's because I let it completely warm up before driving or if I'm used to being easy on dead-stop acceleration, but it hasn't been misbehaving. It's up for sale, have it on a couple craigslist areas and that's about it. No one on ebay wants it (aside from one person offering to make a steering wheel trade).


    In any case, yeah, I'd love to take the covers off and adjust my rockers, install a smaller carburetor and start driving it every day. I might take it to my Friday class sometime and at least adjust the rockers, but I can't justify making it my daily with gas priced the way it is today. Thanks again for your advice, tips and tricks! I at least learned from you all! I really appreciate it
    Roland

    Why wasn't I born in the late '50s? I grew up like an old man anyways

  17. #42
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Upstate NY
    Posts
    2

    Default Re: 1977 Skylark S/R

    Hello! I saw your post and wondered if you kept this car and fixed it up as planned? My main question was if you knew what the colors are in the interior. My father is handing his 75 skylark s/r down to me and she's in need of a complete resto. I am just having trouble figuring out what the name of the color on the dash and door panels is. Thanks!

    Jeremy





    Quote Originally Posted by notanova View Post
    Hello everyone,

    New member here, seems I've finally found the right place to talk to others about my Buick. I bought it to do some mild upgrades and flip it, but I'm thinking now I'll keep it (my other half wont be happy about this).

    It's a '77 S/R 2 Door Coupe, Limited Slip differential...and the bummer...a 305 Chevy Small Block. It's also an Automatic, but at least I've read these cars came with Turbo 350 transmissions. (Oh and I have A/C, which is cool from a selling stand point but I don't like it, cramps up the engine bay)





    OD says 89,322, my guess is it hasn't rolled over yet; the interior is way too nice for a 189,322 mile car.

    Other than this of course


    Not to worry though, I have new carpet for it and I'm ordering the floor pan soon.


    Replaced the brake booster & master cylinder, gotta do wheel cylinders now because I broke off a bleeder screw trying to bleed the brakes.



    Also I'm installing an oil cooler for the trans because it was free and the lines are leaking at the radiator so why not


    And another shot (I have all hub caps by the way)



    Okay now that I may have some of your attention, I have a lot to ask about this car and what to do with it. When I first got it, I wanted to slap on a 4bbl carb and intake on with some headers & glasspacks, fix the hole in the floor and list it for sale. I figured "Hey, it's a late '70's beater Buick with a Chevy (305 at that), it's automatic, pfff, just slap on some bolt-ons and try and make some huge profit off of it," but now I'm trying to figure out if it's worth more the way it is; low mileage high-trim model, and a LSD/Posi-Trac/Trac-Lok/whatever it's supposed to be called from Buick??? Did some reading and supposedly only 3,000+ were made?? I don't know and I'm confused.

    HOWEVER, I'm starting to find I want to actually do some upgrades that will do further good, but I don't know what to do. Camshaft? Valve train? Which would go with an intake, carb, and exhaust. What are good upgrades that don't require taking the engine out? I'm not looking for easy/lazy stuff like a lot of other people, I just want to know how much stuff I can to do to it, the right stuff.


    Originally I wanted to get:

    -EPS Performer Intake (2701)
    -600cfm Holley Double Pumper (Still up in the air, some tell me it'll work, others say with stock automatic I need Vacuum Secondaries)
    -In the case above; 600cfm Classic Holley (0-80458SA) Much cheaper
    -14" Round Air Cleaner
    -Schoenfeld Headers 166-3 (For the mere fact that they claim to fit in this car)
    -Two Magnaflow 18129 Glasspacks




    But by doing some research I've found getting all of that wouldn't gain a lot of horsepower in respect to price, so I'd need to get a Cam, and modify/upgrade the heads a little bit. What does that entail?

    Thank you for looking, and I look forward to learning a lot about this car and what many others have done to them.

 

 
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Similar Threads

  1. TheSilverBuick's 1977 Skylark
    By TheSilverBuick in forum The "X" bodies
    Replies: 558
    Last Post: 09-16-2016, 11:19 AM
  2. 1977 skylark interior
    By patman in forum Parts wanted
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 10-28-2014, 11:49 AM
  3. 1977 skylark
    By PEEDUB77 in forum The "X" bodies
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 07-12-2009, 07:13 PM
  4. 1977 skylark sr
    By ccumbow in forum Suggestions and On-Line Voting.
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 12-22-2006, 10:26 PM
  5. 1977 skylark
    By blueskylark350 in forum Members Rides
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 11-25-2002, 05:09 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Back to top