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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Pine City, MN
    Posts
    9,666

    Default BOP 455 Rear seal Install- Step by Step

    I have had a few folks ask for this, and don't mind sharing.

    Once again, as I mention in every "how to" I post.. this is how I do it.. and it's been proven by dozens of installs. Someone else may have other ideas, and that's fine, I don't mind..

    Step by Step:

    1. Insure you have purchased the BOP RMS 02 rear seal.

    2. Open the package, and discard the instructions, unless your building a Pontiac.

    3. Fit the seal.. I have found the best way to do this is to use an old rear main cap from another engine, or if your careful, you can fit both halves, using the cap that goes to the engine your working on. Our parting line is right in the center of the mains on this engine, so you just use the cap to fit both.- Line one side up so it's flush with your cap, and then grind the other side so it's out about .005 to .010.. or just above the surface. I will confess that I have done this so many times, I just do it by eyeball now.. One side flush, and one side sticking up "just a little bit" is what we are after here. Do this to both halves, grind only one side of each seal.

    I use a small right angle variable speed die grinder with a 2" rolock "green corps" 40 grit disc to grind the seal very carefully. Keep the ends square and straight. you can use a bench grinder, disc grinder, file board.. whatever.. Main thing is to keep it straight and square.


    Now let's check our fit..

    Install the rear seal so the parting line does not line up with flush with the cap.. like this:



    Offset the seal half in the block so it will work with the seal as you have it installed in the cap. Now install the cap, and tighten the bolts.

    Here is what we see..




    What we want to observe is the seal halves coming together, with no bulging.. like this



    On this seal, I actually left it a little big, to illustrate what you don't want to see.. look at the bulge here, where the halves come together..



    Once you have verified that you have a good dry fit, it's time to install the sealer.

    4. Use Permatex "the right stuff" in either the cheese-wiz can, or the calking tube. You want a small tip for this, so don't go hogging to much off the end of the tip. put a very small bead of sealer in the block and cap seal groove. Do not put any sealer in the area where the seal ends will come together.



    Now, you can see that someone was here before me, and dimpled the block with a punch.. don't do that! I am fairly sure that the dimple hurts more than it helps.. the seal is not going to spin with the sealer on it.. in fact, you will need a pliers to pull it out someday.

    But if it's been dimpled like this one.. no biggy, the sealer will save the day for us.

    5. Now take a Q-tip and take most of the sealer you put in, back out.. we are looking for a thin coating, about the thickness of a sheet of paper here. It should look like this:



    See-thru

    Note my finger at the point where I stopped with the sealer.. this is where my seal halves will come together.





    6. Now install the seal, lip pointing toward the inside of the engine. I have built many wet sump vacuum pump race motors, and never turn the seals around, and never had leaks. I limit my vacuum pumps to 11-12". Dry sump motors may be different, consult your pump manufacturer for their recommendation.

    7. Now refit the main cap on the engine, and tighten the bolts.. inspect the seal to insure that no sealer is around the lip of the seal, remove any that may have squished up there, but if you followed these directions, there should be nothing.

    In final assembly, lube the seal generously, and put a see thru film of the right stuff on the main cap, in the area around the seal.


    ___________________________


    I have used this method on rear seals on 455 Buicks since the 90's, when we used to cut the Caddy seals down. Then TA found the Ford seal that works (no trim) and I bet I installed at least 50 of those No trim TA seals.. never had one leak that I am aware of. I only ever had one rear main leak, that car also leaked with the BOP seal, it had a rare issue with the crank.

    Good luck, and happy sealing..

    JW
    Owner/operator

    Tri-Shield Performance
    Jim Weise
    Founder/Owner
    V-8 Buick.com
    320-629-8999

    Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.
    Abraham Lincoln
    16th president of US (1809 - 1865)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Central PA.
    Posts
    579

    Default Re: BOP 455 Rear seal Install- Step by Step



    Wow... thanks Jim. Very good, detailed explanation. Just wish I had this info when I installed my BOP seal. But I guess I must have done it 'good enough' a couple years ago as I don't seem to have any leaks... yet. I am going to print this and save it for next time though. Thanks again!
    Dave

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Pine City, MN
    Posts
    9,666

    Default Re: BOP 455 Rear seal Install- Step by Step

    Ya, it's hit or miss without the sealer.

    I put in 4 or 5 of them per the instructions, without the sealer.. but had one develop that annoying little drip, so I reverted to previous procedures.

    JW
    Owner/operator

    Tri-Shield Performance
    Jim Weise
    Founder/Owner
    V-8 Buick.com
    320-629-8999

    Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.
    Abraham Lincoln
    16th president of US (1809 - 1865)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Ely, NV
    Posts
    4,371

    Default Re: BOP 455 Rear seal Install- Step by Step

    I like that use of the Q-tip! That alone would of saved me with the recent rear main fiasco, as it was an excess of Ultra Black that came around the back side of the seal and pushed into the backside of the lip causing it to deform, then leak excessively. I've used essentially the same method on the grinding/cutting of the seal. Just a smidge of an interference fit but nothing dramatic.
    The Silver Buick- '77 Skylark coupe w/455, SPX, MegaSquirt 2 & TKO-600 (Drag Week 2011!), '72 Centurion Conv't - 455w/TH400, '67 T-bird 4Dr (suicide) w/428, MegaSquirt 1 & C6. '69 Firebird replaced, now building a Pontiac Turbo L6!

    My Skylark thread
    http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=208168
    My Pontiac OHC Six thread.
    http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=219250

    I'm just a regular guy that fuel injected an old Buick and Thunderbird.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Grants, New mexico
    Posts
    848

    Default Re: BOP 455 Rear seal Install- Step by Step

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Weise View Post
    I have had a few folks ask for this, and don't mind sharing.

    Once again, as I mention in every "how to" I post.. this is how I do it.. and it's been proven by dozens of installs. Someone else may have other ideas, and that's fine, I don't mind..

    Step by Step:

    1. Insure you have purchased the BOP RMS 02 rear seal.

    2. Open the package, and discard the instructions, unless your building a Pontiac.

    3. Fit the seal.. I have found the best way to do this is to use an old rear main cap from another engine, or if your careful, you can fit both halves, using the cap that goes to the engine your working on. Our parting line is right in the center of the mains on this engine, so you just use the cap to fit both.- Line one side up so it's flush with your cap, and then grind the other side so it's out about .010 to .015 or just above the surface. I will confess that I have done this so many times, I just do it by eyeball now.. One side flush, and one side sticking up "just a little bit" is what we are after here. Do this to both halves, grind only one side of each seal.

    I use a small right angle variable speed die grinder with a 2" rolock "green corps" 40 grit disc to grind the seal very carefully. Keep the ends square and straight. you can use a bench grinder, disc grinder, file board.. whatever.. Main thing is to keep it straight and square.


    Now let's check our fit..

    Install the rear seal so the parting line does not line up with flush with the cap.. like this:



    Offset the seal half in the block so it will work with the seal as you have it installed in the cap. Now install the cap, and tighten the bolts.

    Here is what we see..




    What we want to observe is the seal halves coming together, with no bulging.. like this



    On this seal, I actually left it a little big, to illustrate what you don't want to see.. look at the bulge here, where the halves come together..



    Once you have verified that you have a good dry fit, it's time to install the sealer.

    4. Use Permatex "the right stuff" in either the cheese-wiz can, or the calking tube. You want a small tip for this, so don't go hogging to much off the end of the tip. put a very small bead of sealer in the block and cap seal groove. Do not put any sealer in the area where the seal ends will come together.



    Now, you can see that someone was here before me, and dimpled the block with a punch.. don't do that! I am fairly sure that the dimple hurts more than it helps.. the seal is not going to spin with the sealer on it.. in fact, you will need a pliers to pull it out someday.

    But if it's been dimpled like this one.. no biggy, the sealer will save the day for us.

    5. Now take a Q-tip and take most of the sealer you put in, back out.. we are looking for a thin coating, about the thickness of a sheet of paper here. It should look like this:



    See-thru

    Note my finger at the point where I stopped with the sealer.. this is where my seal halves will come together.





    6. Now install the seal, lip pointing toward the inside of the engine. I have built many wet sump vacuum pump race motors, and never turn the seals around, and never had leaks. I limit my vacuum pumps to 11-12". Dry sump motors may be different, consult your pump manufacturer for their recommendation.

    7. Now refit the main cap on the engine, and tighten the bolts.. inspect the seal to insure that no sealer is around the lip of the seal, remove any that may have squished up there, but if you followed these directions, there should be nothing.

    In final assembly, lube the seal generously, and put a see thru film of the right stuff on the main cap, in the area around the seal.


    ___________________________


    I have used this method on rear seals on 455 Buicks since the 90's, when we used to cut the Caddy seals down. Then TA found the Ford seal that works (no trim) and I bet I installed at least 50 of those No trim TA seals.. never had one leak that I am aware of. I only ever had one rear main leak, that car also leaked with the BOP seal, it had a rare issue with the crank.

    Good luck, and happy sealing..

    JW
    I realize this is an older thread, but I was wondering if these instructions would be the same using the T/A 1515 neoprene 350 rear main seal? Also T/A lists their seal as a "no trim" seal, so is the fitting step necessary? I am planning to do this in the car as I already have the transmission out of the car. With the flex plate removed it seems I have pretty good access to do the project.
    Is it recommended to NOT get any sealer between the ends of the seal pieces where they meet?
    Thanks,
    Last edited by 64 skylark mike; 10-17-2016 at 09:28 PM. Reason: added question
    Michael

    1964 Skylark

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Pine City, MN
    Posts
    9,666

    Default Re: BOP 455 Rear seal Install- Step by Step

    Yes, I used this method with dozens of TA 350 and 455 seals, with a very low failure rate.

    JW
    Owner/operator

    Tri-Shield Performance
    Jim Weise
    Founder/Owner
    V-8 Buick.com
    320-629-8999

    Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.
    Abraham Lincoln
    16th president of US (1809 - 1865)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Grants, New mexico
    Posts
    848

    Default Re: BOP 455 Rear seal Install- Step by Step

    Thanks for the quick response! I'll be ordering a seal kit from T/A tomorrow.

    Is there any tips for getting the wedge shaped pieces into the groove on both ends of the cap?
    Michael

    1964 Skylark

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Grants, New mexico
    Posts
    848

    Default Re: BOP 455 Rear seal Install- Step by Step

    I got the old seal out of the 350 today. Actually not that old, was installed in June. It was the Ford 460 seal. Discovered it was installed backwards, and the ends were not offset from the cap parting lines. Also the length hadn't been trimmed as detailed above.

    Interesting note, the part #s on the 460 seal are exactly the same as on the seal I just got from T/A.

    I have a question concerning the RTV sealer. Does Permatex Ultra Copper high temp work the same as the Permatex right stuff black?
    Michael

    1964 Skylark

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Grants, New mexico
    Posts
    848

    Default Re: BOP 455 Rear seal Install- Step by Step

    Any comments about the RTV sealers? I don't want to have to do this project again, want to make sure I do the best possible job I can to try to insure the rear main won't leak.

    Thanks,
    Michael

    1964 Skylark

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Pine City, MN
    Posts
    9,666

    Default Re: BOP 455 Rear seal Install- Step by Step

    Technically, any form a gasket type product should work.

    JW
    Owner/operator

    Tri-Shield Performance
    Jim Weise
    Founder/Owner
    V-8 Buick.com
    320-629-8999

    Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.
    Abraham Lincoln
    16th president of US (1809 - 1865)

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Grants, New mexico
    Posts
    848

    Default Re: BOP 455 Rear seal Install- Step by Step

    Thanks, and also appreciate the detailed write up on this project.
    Michael

    1964 Skylark

 

 

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