As promised, I am going to do an install thread on the FI Tech TBI unit. http://fitechefi.com/default.asp.pg-Products
This is a new very reasonably priced "self tuning" TBI.
This is going on a 1972 GS
455 bored to 462
Block zero decked to pistons. 10.5.1 compression.
Block girdle installed
edelbrock performer intake (wanted to retain original ram air cleaner so went with this)
Heads and intake port matched and polished
TA forged pistons
Roller cam 580/560 248 duration 110 center.
Comp cams pro 1.6 roller rockers
TA high flow waterpump with aluminum radiator
Robb MC fuel pump
TA shortie headers
MSD 6AL2 programmable ignition, converted HEI distributor for MSD pick up.
I decided to go with the "Go EFI 4 - Power Adder 600 HP System" because I am running a nitrous plate system on the car. After calling and talking to them, they suggested this system based on the amount of nitrous i plan on running. I like the nitrous control the system gives me, and I also like the addition of an AC rev increase signal I get with this upgraded unit.
Here is the description from their site:
"The Go EFI 4 Power Adder 600HP is for the enthusiast that demands more from his system or is planning a future upgrade! This system is capable of 25 lbs of Boost right out of the box and can be used in a Blow Through Turbo or Blower application or on a single Roots style 'draw through' supercharger. You can also run a single stage of Wet Nitrous and control your A/F as well as Ignition Timing."
I don't have any experience with any other fuel injection systems, so I have no basis of comparison to other products.
I really like the look of the factory air cleaner and have my nitrous purge running through the air scoops, so I want to try and retain it:
I am starting with a newer style 800cfm quadrajet (with the APT and integrated electric choke).
Initial impressions were very positive. Items arrived packaged very well. I read through the instructions, they seem reasonably understandable. I only found one contradiction so far, (if I should install a fuel filter pre fuel command center or not), but I will call the company and get clarification on it. I would have liked more information on the timing control functionality of the unit....but I will deal with that when I get there.....not sure if I am going to use the FI Tech control or keep my MSD 6AL2 in control at this point.
Here are some side by side comparisons. Hard to see in the picture, but the FI Tech TB air cleaner flange surface is about 3/32nds of an inch taller than the quadrajet. Also, no throttle return spring needed now....throttle return spring is integrated into lever: FI tech dimensions: http://fitechefi.com/virtualoffice_files/30001.PDF
I started by trying to fit the fuel command center in the driver side front radiator / fender well area. I couldn't quite get it to fit where I wanted it with the factory location of the widow washer fluid container. I wanted it to fit further back in the pocket:
After looking at it, I simply moved the location of the washer container holder back ~1/2 inch on the fender by drilling new holes. This allows everything to clear and gives me the mounting location I like:
I moved to the throttle body mock up installation next, to check for fitment:
I had a quadrajet nitrous plate on there before...but had luckily held onto my holley plate, so I put that one one first. The system accommodates both bolt patters, but i read that there is additional space required for the quadrajet pattern usage (may require an adapter depending on manifold) so i just swapped over to all holley.
Now, to mock up the air cleaner to see how it will all fit under the hood......uh oh....factory quadrajet style flange air cleaner won't go down over the holley style flange on the TBI.......so on this seems like a good stopping point tonight. I will order in an air cleaner spacer and then continue to mock up the air cleaner:
I ended up finding a Spectre 1/4 air cleaner spacer that will work perfect. You will also need a carb stud 5/16 to 1/4 adapter, unless you want to run a 5/16 stud:
Now, everything fits great. Please note I had previously cut my foam seals down to 3/4 inch to accomodate the difference in intake and nitrous plate height. This spacer raised the assembly a little more, but it all still fit under the hood, foam seals well to hood seals, and there is not too much pressure on the air cleaner.
Now, onto the fuel command center install:
I made an L bracket out of some 1/8 X 2 aluminum stock I had. I also cut out a rubber pad for the bottom of the unit, since I will install with the bottom directly on the fender well/radiator support well. I did not want metal to metal vibration and wear. I could have also mounted raised a little, but didn't want to worry about it vibrating down over time and then having issues:
Final mounting finished....time to run some lines:
I put the lines in place to see how I will route them. I will route the low pressure line from the existing location of my regulator. The high pressure line will run under the window washer fluid container, down the fender well/fender edge, under the hydroboost unit, and over to the TB. Not sure on the vent tube routing yet.....I will hook it up to the old evac canister line I think....I just need to get under there and find it. I disconnected it ~20yrs ago .........the instructions are insistent you must run the vent to the gas tank, otherwise stuff can explode.........
That's all for today. I expect to finish the install this Saturday. Will update then.
Made some progress this weekend. Finished all plumbing and tightened down everything. Ran a hard plastic emissions line I had left over from another project to my factory vent line by the inner frame rail on the drivers side. I installed my oxygen sensor here...I am running shorty TA headers with these modified TA down pipes.....so put it here:
I finished most of the wiring, but since I am using the unit for nitrous and fan control, there was additional wiring and relays that needed to be installed. The system controls relays on and off using the negative relay terminal, so there is never any load going to the unit to control these things. I also had a short in my nitrous switch, so it took me awhile to track that down.
So far, nothing really hard about the install, but it is taking me longer than expected. I read in some other threads of 2 guys doing this in 4 hours. I have about 12 hours in it so far, and still expect to have 2-3 more before I am finished.
I also tried to shortcut the priming instructions of the fuel command center by taking the low pressure fitting off and manually putting fuel in it. Don't do this. I made a mess. I will just have to follow the priming instructions.
Finished all the wiring and had the first start up tonight.
It was difficult to find where to configure the nitrous settings in the interface. You have to go into "display", then enable display of N20 and power adder, then go back and configure.
Initial start took 5 attempts to get it to fire. I had properly primed the system per instructions, but air in the system plus required throttle adjustment prevented immediate start. Once I opened the throttle slightly with the gas pedal, it fired, but the idle was rough. I adjusted the idle screw, turned off for 30 seconds to reset the ECU, and fired again. Car would still not start without me slightly touching the throttle, but once started, idled smoothly at ~850 rpm.
I stopped and started 3 more times, and on the third attempt it fired up on its own.
My initial impression......there is a noticeable difference on the throttle crispness and response off idle. You can hear and feel it. In fairness, I had trouble getting my q jet idle AFR tuned where I wanted it.....it always idled a little rich.
Video of first idle - ignore the APSX FR gauge you see....you can't read it, but the display is rock solid at 14.1 (which is where it is set at right now in software). I have a 3rd z - tronix gauge that confirms the FI tech is right.....and the APSX gauge is the one that is off.
Final install pics:
I will post initial driving impressions and experience this weekend. I started the car again today to test my fan functionality. Car started up on the first crank, idle fluctuated a little, then smoothed out and it warmed up. Fans clicked on and off at set points I put into software. The fuel pump in the command center is very quiet and I can't hear it at idle.
I called FI tech asking guidance on default cam selection. I was wondering on cam "3" vs "4" for my set up. They said if idle vacuum is >10, select cam 3. If <10, select 4.
See posts later in thread about fuel line issues. Long story short.....make sure you DO NOT use their line provided with kit if it is not Russell branded. Issues with original fuel line provided.....lucky my car didn't burn to the ground. FI tech made it right though.
Drove the car to work and back today. 20 miles round trip. I LOVE the way the car drives now. Very crisp off idle and mid range response. WOT feels compatible to carb (which is expected). 10-15mph rolling burn outs at will now. So far, this goes in the books as one of the best upgrades I have made to the car.
Had some other problems with the car, so haven't had as much drive time as I would have liked. Problems were not related to the FI Tech unit. Since the last update I have correctly plumbed the vent tube to the gas tank and teed into a factory vent line. I learned you can't use the factory vent line that originally went to the charcoal canister because that line can become pressurized and cause issues with fuel pressure in the fuel command reservoir.
Took the car out for another drive today. Throttle response is amazing compared to the Q jet I had on there. Car will now loose traction at any full throttle stab at 35 mph or below.....(time to buy some drag radials.) I put the replacement TB unit that FI tech sent me (due to the failed fuel line, contamination got in the original throttle body). I am amazed how fast these things learn. Within a few miles of driving and 2 full rpm full throttle runs it seems to be dialed in. I will drive some more and post about fuel mileage any Dyno results within a month or so.
Having issues with high side fuel pressure. Been having intermittent issues for 3 months....hence no Dyno trip yet. Car going dangerously lean at 4000+ rpm. Seems to be an issue with the fuel command center. See a full description in later post in this thread. Sent back to FI Tech, they sent it back to me "repaired" and I still have the same issue. Evaluating my options.........
Decided to install a Tanks Inc EFI gas tank and pump. Ditched the fuel command center. See details on page 7 of post. Car is back up and running great. Not gonna sugar coat it.....pretty disappointed in how FI Tech handled this issue. Very poor customer service with this issue in my opinion. I now have a very nice looking paper weight (old FCC). I want to see FI Tech succeed. I want more affordable fuel injection options. I hope they get this worked out and work out the customer service issues.
8/16: had car strand me while at Hot August Nights in Reno. Issue turned out to be a melted orange power wire that feeds the fuel pump. My 12v battery wire to unit was also showing signs of overheating. I am running a 400lph pump that is only supposed to draw 14.3 amps. When I converted to the intank pump I decided to use the original orange power wire from the FI Tech unit with an inline 15 amp fuse. Bad decision. I ended up fixing it while in Reno. Wired in a relay and cut orange wire back to good part, then used that for 12v signal to pump.
1/17: this is the first winter I have had a fully functional car. Having issues with a cold start problem if I turn my car off before car is warmed up then I try to restart a few mins later. Once warm, it starts and runs fine. Going to play with my prime fuel and crank fuel setting in the cold temp range. Stay tuned.