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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    SAN ANTONIO TX
    Posts
    175

    Default Who can tell me about replacing my heater core?

    I have found that my heater core has a tiny leak. How difficult is it to replace? Is it one of those long drawn out jobs or is it pretty straight forward?
    Thanks for the help,
    Randy
    70 QQ STAGE 1 GSX
    71 GS455 CONV. (RED) W/BUCKET SEATS & CONSOLE
    EX: 70 1010 STAGE 1 GSX
    EX: 72 GS455 CONV. (WHITE)
    EX: 72 GS350 CONV. (SILVER)
    EX: 70 SS396 CHEVELLE (GOLD)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Central, Indiana
    Posts
    666

    Default

    It's a pain in the rear end. Has to be pulled from the inside and ac box in the engine compartment has to come off.
    Dave
    ______________

    71 Skylark Custom Fire Red w/ Black Interior
    Resto In progress
    Summer of 2006 ok Summer 2007 or bust

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Sacramento CA area
    Posts
    3,658

    Default

    I wrote a story on here somewhere about how to replace this without pulling the fender. Does require partially (300 degrees)hole-cutting the wheelhouse with 1.25 inch bi-metal holesaw.

    Search the forums for the story.
    BadBrad
    '70 GS455 - Power Brute Super T10 4spd
    ex. '70 GSX
    New Project: 2000 Mercury Grand Marquis - for the kids to drive.
    New Muscle: 2013 Ford Taurus SHO - Twin Turbo Terror

    Spare 455 on the stand, just in case!


    Slideshow of BadBrad's Car: http://s517.photobucket.com/albums/u...view=slideshow

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Holland, PA
    Posts
    9,676

    Default

    Geez, again I'm still amazed that the engineers did this. I know the engineers hadn't planned on these cars outliving most of the parts, but my 69 Riv has a 2 piece box and the heater core takes all of an hour to swap. It was a last minute design change, so at least on my model that thought about it.
    Yardley
    2008 BPG Nationals BCO Race Champion
    2005 Muscle Car Eliminator Champion!
    Visit my webpage. I worked hard on it.
    http://www.1badriv.com
    BPG #1033 GSCA #81 ROA #7453
    NE GS/GN Club Member
    1969 Riviera GS Stage1 Clone 12.92@106MPH!!!!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    "Doo Drop Inn" Trenton, Ont. Canada
    Posts
    4,114

    Default Re: Who can tell me about replacing my heater core?

    RANDY TAUSCH said:I have found that my heater core has a tiny leak. How difficult is it to replace? Is it one of those long drawn out jobs or is it pretty straight forward?
    Thanks for the help,
    Randy

    Do a search for "heater core removal".

    Good luck.
    Korrie

    "Mayor of Swaggerville"...where women faint at the sight of rippling biceps.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

    '69 Special Deluxe Wagon
    '70 GS Stage1
    '72 GS Stage2

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Grand Haven MI
    Posts
    1,469

    Default Ouch Baby, Very Ouch!

    The book tells you to start by removing the front outer fender.

    Then the inner fender.

    Then the heater/AC box. There is ONE bolt you can't get to without tearing the front end apart.

    Then you can go inside the car and get the heater box out.

    I just saw some advice from Joe Taubitz on how to avoid all of that. Do like Doo Wop said, search the forum for heater core removal.

    If you go the whole front removal, replace the heater fan motor while you're at it.
    John Eberly
    '68 GS400
    former '71 Centurion Convertible (gave to my brother)
    former '95 Riviera (gave to my daughter)
    WAITAMINNIT!!! I'M RUNNING OUT OF CARS!!!
    BPG #1430

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Swartz Creek MI
    Posts
    821

    Default

    Here we go again!! The manual says to remove the fender, but if you look at the plastic cover over the assembly on the inside of the car, you will see in the bottom right hand corner, a round emboss. If you drill a 5/16 hole through the middle of the emboss, you will take out the stud that requires the fender removal. Then follow the directions in the manual and you can pull the core. When reassembling the unit, a little dum-dum in the hole will disguise what you did, and the three remaining bolts hold the assembly just fine.

    Joe Taubitz
    37 Special coupe --455 powered
    40 Super convert restored
    69 Sportwagon
    72 GS455 convert
    92 Roadmaster wagon
    04 Rendezvous

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Sacramento CA area
    Posts
    3,658

    Default

    Hey,

    That's even easier than the way I did it (I think?).
    BadBrad
    '70 GS455 - Power Brute Super T10 4spd
    ex. '70 GSX
    New Project: 2000 Mercury Grand Marquis - for the kids to drive.
    New Muscle: 2013 Ford Taurus SHO - Twin Turbo Terror

    Spare 455 on the stand, just in case!


    Slideshow of BadBrad's Car: http://s517.photobucket.com/albums/u...view=slideshow

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    "Doo Drop Inn" Trenton, Ont. Canada
    Posts
    4,114

    Default Thx For The Tip

    The Old Guy said:Here we go again!! The manual says to remove the fender, but if you look at the plastic cover over the assembly on the inside of the car, you will see in the bottom right hand corner, a round emboss. If you drill a 5/16 hole through the middle of the emboss, you will take out the stud that requires the fender removal. Then follow the directions in the manual and you can pull the core. When reassembling the unit, a little dum-dum in the hole will disguise what you did, and the three remaining bolts hold the assembly just fine.


    Used your tip on drilling out the bottom right corner stud. Worked great. Only a couple of hours to do the re & re on my heater core today. That was on a 70 with a 350 and air.

    Took out the passenger bucket seat and passenger kick panel as well. Made it a bit more "roomier".

    Thanks again...great tip!
    Korrie

    "Mayor of Swaggerville"...where women faint at the sight of rippling biceps.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

    '69 Special Deluxe Wagon
    '70 GS Stage1
    '72 GS Stage2

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Monroe,Conn.
    Posts
    3,163

    Default

    You've got to admit,it was a stupid design. When I was restoring my car,I replaced the heater core before putting the fender on. Certainly much easier at that time. I couldn't imagine pulling that fender back off my car after putting it all together.
    Carl Rychlik N.E. GS/GN Club
    GSCA #2090 BCA #23261 BPG #1064
    1970 Gran Sport Stage 1 Coupe-BCA Senior Gold Award-2005 ,BCA Senior Gold Preservation Award 2011, GS Nationals/Larry Miller Best Of Show Award 2011, & HEMMINGS MUSCLE MACHINE OF THE YEAR-2006, AACA Junior and Senior 2010,GSCA 10th year Gold Concours 2015
    1987 Grand National (original owner)
    2006 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD Ex.Cab w/Duramax

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Chandler, AZ
    Posts
    1,756

    Default

    Is the procedure the same on a non A/C car?
    Rick Sanford
    1970 GS 455 4spd, Original 3 spd Car
    BPG #1541

    "I got news for you pal. You ain't leading but two things right now: Jack and $hit, and Jack just left town."

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    1313 Mockingbyrd Lane, Moonbase Alpha, Magrathea
    Posts
    4,927

    Default

    It was fairly easy for me. I didn't know about the bolt that you have to remove from the engine side, so we accidentally pulled the box off it (stripped). We did it all from the inside.

    It'll take a little time, but is'nt that hard.

    Wish we had this board back then, I'd have taken more car to drill the box at that one bolt.
    Truzi
    1970 Buick Skylark Custom Convertible

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Daytona Beach, FL
    Posts
    1,000

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by The Old Guy
    Here we go again!! The manual says to remove the fender, but if you look at the plastic cover over the assembly on the inside of the car, you will see in the bottom right hand corner, a round emboss. If you drill a 5/16 hole through the middle of the emboss, you will take out the stud that requires the fender removal. Then follow the directions in the manual and you can pull the core. When reassembling the unit, a little dum-dum in the hole will disguise what you did, and the three remaining bolts hold the assembly just fine.


    Awesome - very helpful.

    Thanks!
    Andrew

    Fighting to be a Cancer SURVIVOR!


    1972 Skylark Custom
    350-4 Doug Nash 5 Speed
    285/40/ZR17 Tires Centerline Wheels, it Handles!
    Too Many Mods to list.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Hesperus, CO.
    Posts
    116

    Default Heater Core

    In my 1970 chevrolet chassis service manual, under 'air distributor duct and core replacement, it says, "all except corvette - from under dash, drill out lower right hand distributor stud with a 1/4" drill. Don't these engineers aver talk to each other?

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Boston Ma
    Posts
    3,991

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by landshark
    In my 1970 chevrolet chassis service manual, under 'air distributor duct and core replacement, it says, "all except corvette - from under dash, drill out lower right hand distributor stud with a 1/4" drill. Don't these engineers aver talk to each other?
    Obviously, no
    Chris Blair
    1970 Skylark Custom/GS455 clone convertible
    1997 Riviera SC

  16. #16
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    home
    Posts
    1,328

    Default

    what about if you already have the whole front clip off the car? ( 70 GS 350 with A.T. & air conditioning. i take it i must remove the A/C box under the hood? must i also remove the dash pad ? or just heater related parts on the inside of the car?

    TIA

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    1313 Mockingbyrd Lane, Moonbase Alpha, Magrathea
    Posts
    4,927

    Default

    On my 70 'Lark I basically just removed the box inside the car (pulling it off without knowing about that one stud - stripping it out of the box). I didn't have to remove the fender or the A/C box under the hood, or the dash.

    Under the hood I believe the only thing I had to do was remove the hoses connected to the core. Watch for dripping fluid, or you'll have a mess.
    Truzi
    1970 Buick Skylark Custom Convertible

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Hudson FL
    Posts
    101

    Default faq

    ehi faqU all

    it's the more incredible ****in'forum with talkin'idiots
    86 Regal with 1970 455, th200-4r,9"2.75 gears

    86 Monte SS with 355, built th200-4r.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    3,423

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 86regalwith455
    ehi faqU all

    it's the more incredible ****in'forum with talkin'idiots


    ----------------
    Drive it like you rented it. Driving it like you stole it means driving 5 mph under the speed limit and using your turn signals.

    "Those who are willing to trade civil liberties for temporary security, deserve neither". -Benjamin Franklin

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Hudson FL
    Posts
    101

    Default

    that post was not by me, time for me to change password!

    Dean
    86 Regal with 1970 455, th200-4r,9"2.75 gears

    86 Monte SS with 355, built th200-4r.

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Gold Coast Queensland Australia
    Posts
    9

    Default

    While restoring my 63 Riv, after removing the AC/Heater Box in the engine compartment i found that the previous owner had removed the Heater core thru the front and not from the inside. He had cut inch and a half slots in the firewall all the way around the heater core and pulled it thru. Not the nicest look when the box is off, but once it was all back together again you couldnt tell that a bad shortcut was taken. Not what i would have done but different strokes for different folks

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    ny
    Posts
    6

    Default

    cant be as bad as a 90's tauris.
    the whole dash has to come out
    66 riv 425

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    64

    Default

    My A/C-equipped 72 Skylark has a bolt at the top of the heater box that was accessible only by removing the dash pad. So, besides the nuts on the 4 studs that poke thru the firewall (of which the lower left one requires either the fender-removal method or the stud-drilling method), I had to remove 2 bolts from inside the passenger compartment (the 2nd is at the bottom of the box and is more readily accessible). I believe that these 2 "extra" bolts are unique to A/C-equipped cars, per the body manual.

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    1313 Mockingbyrd Lane, Moonbase Alpha, Magrathea
    Posts
    4,927

    Default

    Wuzgrandads, could that be a later addition? I don't remember a bolt requiring removal of the dash pad. It was a long time ago, so maybe I simply don't remember it that bolt. I did not remove the pad, though.
    Truzi
    1970 Buick Skylark Custom Convertible

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    64

    Default

    Don't know about it being a later addition. Do know that the service manual shows that non-A/C heater box does not have the two extra bolts that A/C-equipped heater box has. The service manual shows these bolts for A/C cars and says that dash pad needs to be removed. Sure enough - that's what it took on mine!

    I'm just glad that I did not yank on it too hard before getting a manual to look it up. I had followed online instructions (must be for non-A/C) and box would not budge.

 

 
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