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  1. #101
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    Default

    Sounds like you are running lean. Put a vacuum gauge on it. Make sure there are no vacuum leaks. You should be able to get all the advance in at 2500 RPM or less and have no ping at all with 32* total and no vacuum advance. Work with the initial and total timing until you eliminate the ping. Forget about the vacuum advance until then. Make sure the bushing didn't fall off.
    Larry
    1998 "Fully Optioned" SC3800 Riviera
    70 GS 455 Stage1, TSP 470, 602 HP@ 5900, 589 TQ @ 4900
    TA Hyd Roller Cam, 230*/238*, 112, .544"/.577" lift, 4-7 swap
    MSD Digital 6+, Ignitionman Distributor w/MSD trigger
    THM400 with Ultimate 258mm converter, Gear Vendors OD
    AED 1000 HO Carb, 800 CFM 7042240 Quadrajet
    8.5 10 bolt, 3.73's Race weight 4025lbs.
    Best E.T. 11.54 Best MPH, 116.06
    Larrymta@verizon.net, GSCA #291
    BPG # 1063
    N.E. GS/GN Club Assistant Director

  2. #102
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Hillsboro, OR
    Posts
    243

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by LARRY70GS
    Sounds like you are running lean. Put a vacuum gauge on it. Make sure there are no vacuum leaks. You should be able to get all the advance in at 2500 RPM or less and have no ping at all with 32* total and no vacuum advance. Work with the initial and total timing until you eliminate the ping. Forget about the vacuum advance until then. Make sure the bushing didn't fall off.

    I will check the vacuum and disconnect it. The bushing is still there I checked the total again last night to be sure of where I was at. When you say it is lean, are you thinking that I need to change some jets or just timing right now.

    Thanks, Joe
    1967 Buick Riviera GS, 430 V8, All Original

    2004.5 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab SLT 4X4, Cummins 600, NV 5600 6 speed, 35" Toyo M/T's 522 HP 1,057TQ

  3. #103
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    Feb 2002
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    Oakland Gardens, N.Y.
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtcasper
    I will check the vacuum and disconnect it. The bushing is still there I checked the total again last night to be sure of where I was at. When you say it is lean, are you thinking that I need to change some jets or just timing right now.

    Thanks, Joe
    If you have a vacuum leak, it will run lean. The vacuum gauge will give you a good indication. If the motor is all stock, it should show at least 17 or 18" of vacuum at idle fully warmed up.
    Larry
    1998 "Fully Optioned" SC3800 Riviera
    70 GS 455 Stage1, TSP 470, 602 HP@ 5900, 589 TQ @ 4900
    TA Hyd Roller Cam, 230*/238*, 112, .544"/.577" lift, 4-7 swap
    MSD Digital 6+, Ignitionman Distributor w/MSD trigger
    THM400 with Ultimate 258mm converter, Gear Vendors OD
    AED 1000 HO Carb, 800 CFM 7042240 Quadrajet
    8.5 10 bolt, 3.73's Race weight 4025lbs.
    Best E.T. 11.54 Best MPH, 116.06
    Larrymta@verizon.net, GSCA #291
    BPG # 1063
    N.E. GS/GN Club Assistant Director

  4. #104
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Hillsboro, OR
    Posts
    243

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by LARRY70GS
    If you have a vacuum leak, it will run lean. The vacuum gauge will give you a good indication. If the motor is all stock, it should show at least 17 or 18" of vacuum at idle fully warmed up.

    I checked the vacuum tonight. The gauge moved kind of erraticly, but was between 16 and 20. That was taken off of the manifold right behind the Carburetor. It idles a lot better with the vacuum advance connected, is that because I am getting the 10* or so degrees of advance at idle.
    1967 Buick Riviera GS, 430 V8, All Original

    2004.5 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab SLT 4X4, Cummins 600, NV 5600 6 speed, 35" Toyo M/T's 522 HP 1,057TQ

  5. #105
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    Feb 2002
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    Oakland Gardens, N.Y.
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jtcasper
    I checked the vacuum tonight. The gauge moved kind of erraticly, but was between 16 and 20. That was taken off of the manifold right behind the Carburetor. It idles a lot better with the vacuum advance connected, is that because I am getting the 10* or so degrees of advance at idle.
    You have other problems. The gauge should be quite steady. Is it occilating rapidly or slowly? The stock vacuum advance cannister will supply between 14 and 18* at 16" of vacuum. Here is a good article on diagnosing engine problems with a vacuum gauge.
    http://www.fordf150.net/howto/diagnoseengine.php
    Larry
    1998 "Fully Optioned" SC3800 Riviera
    70 GS 455 Stage1, TSP 470, 602 HP@ 5900, 589 TQ @ 4900
    TA Hyd Roller Cam, 230*/238*, 112, .544"/.577" lift, 4-7 swap
    MSD Digital 6+, Ignitionman Distributor w/MSD trigger
    THM400 with Ultimate 258mm converter, Gear Vendors OD
    AED 1000 HO Carb, 800 CFM 7042240 Quadrajet
    8.5 10 bolt, 3.73's Race weight 4025lbs.
    Best E.T. 11.54 Best MPH, 116.06
    Larrymta@verizon.net, GSCA #291
    BPG # 1063
    N.E. GS/GN Club Assistant Director

  6. #106
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Hillsboro, OR
    Posts
    243

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by LARRY70GS
    You have other problems. The gauge should be quite steady. Is it occilating rapidly or slowly? The stock vacuum advance cannister will supply between 14 and 18* at 16" of vacuum. Here is a good article on diagnosing engine problems with a vacuum gauge.
    http://www.fordf150.net/howto/diagnoseengine.php

    The gauge was oscilating very rapidly. Looks like I have some work to do.
    1967 Buick Riviera GS, 430 V8, All Original

    2004.5 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab SLT 4X4, Cummins 600, NV 5600 6 speed, 35" Toyo M/T's 522 HP 1,057TQ

  7. #107
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Oakland Gardens, N.Y.
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jtcasper
    The gauge was oscilating very rapidly. Looks like I have some work to do.
    possible valve problems or dead miss.
    Larry
    1998 "Fully Optioned" SC3800 Riviera
    70 GS 455 Stage1, TSP 470, 602 HP@ 5900, 589 TQ @ 4900
    TA Hyd Roller Cam, 230*/238*, 112, .544"/.577" lift, 4-7 swap
    MSD Digital 6+, Ignitionman Distributor w/MSD trigger
    THM400 with Ultimate 258mm converter, Gear Vendors OD
    AED 1000 HO Carb, 800 CFM 7042240 Quadrajet
    8.5 10 bolt, 3.73's Race weight 4025lbs.
    Best E.T. 11.54 Best MPH, 116.06
    Larrymta@verizon.net, GSCA #291
    BPG # 1063
    N.E. GS/GN Club Assistant Director

  8. #108
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Hillsboro, OR
    Posts
    243

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by LARRY70GS
    possible valve problems or dead miss.

    Maybe I should do a compression check. That would help to find a valve problem wouldn't it.
    1967 Buick Riviera GS, 430 V8, All Original

    2004.5 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab SLT 4X4, Cummins 600, NV 5600 6 speed, 35" Toyo M/T's 522 HP 1,057TQ

  9. #109

    Default

    Yes it would..
    Adam Martin
    BPG# 1358
    BCA# 39765
    1970 Buick Skylark Custom 455 Coupe
    www.antiqueautomotiveservice.com

    http://www.antiqueautomotiveservice.com/images/logo_top.gif

  10. #110
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    Feb 2002
    Location
    Oakland Gardens, N.Y.
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jtcasper
    Maybe I should do a compression check. That would help to find a valve problem wouldn't it.
    Absolutely, a leak down test would be even better.
    Larry
    1998 "Fully Optioned" SC3800 Riviera
    70 GS 455 Stage1, TSP 470, 602 HP@ 5900, 589 TQ @ 4900
    TA Hyd Roller Cam, 230*/238*, 112, .544"/.577" lift, 4-7 swap
    MSD Digital 6+, Ignitionman Distributor w/MSD trigger
    THM400 with Ultimate 258mm converter, Gear Vendors OD
    AED 1000 HO Carb, 800 CFM 7042240 Quadrajet
    8.5 10 bolt, 3.73's Race weight 4025lbs.
    Best E.T. 11.54 Best MPH, 116.06
    Larrymta@verizon.net, GSCA #291
    BPG # 1063
    N.E. GS/GN Club Assistant Director

  11. #111
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Hillsboro, OR
    Posts
    243

    Default

    Thanks guys. My dad is a retired mechanic so he has most everything I need. I know about doing the compression check, but not so sure about a leak down test. I will talk to him about it.

    It looks like my timing problem is not going to be solved to soon, now that I have bigger problems to fix. The weather will start getting bad here so I will probably take the next few months to do some work to the car I have been wanting to do. First off will be the motor.

    The car was given to me by my father-in-law who bought it from my best friends dad about 6 years ago. He was going to donate it because he never used it, so I really don't have a problem putting money into it. For those 6 years the car probably only got about 200 miles put on it.

    When I picked the car up from him, it had a bad water pump. I am now wondering if it got hot and that is causing some of these problems.

    If I have time this weekend I will do a compression check and let you know what I find. I cannot tear into it too much, cause I am in the middle of changing insurance companies and I need to be able to get the car to an appraiser.

    Thanks for your help everyone.

    Larry you are awesome, I really appreciate the help.


    Joe
    1967 Buick Riviera GS, 430 V8, All Original

    2004.5 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab SLT 4X4, Cummins 600, NV 5600 6 speed, 35" Toyo M/T's 522 HP 1,057TQ

  12. #112
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Mason, Michigan
    Posts
    390

    Default

    I don't know if this holds true for all areas of the country, but Sears has their Craftsman dialback timing light on sale this week. Normally $69.99 on sale for $49.99. Plus, if you are a Craftsman Club member, you'll get another 10% off (if not, sign up!). Quite a deal, check it out!
    (Sorry about the plug for Sears)
    Mike

    1967 GS400
    1973 Gran Sport Stage 1 (parts car, unfortunately)
    1997 883/1200 Sportster Hugger

    GSCA #949
    Michigan Buick Performance Club
    BPG #1402

  13. #113
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Savin Rock, CT
    Posts
    2,498

  14. #114
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    39

    Default Re: Power Timing your Buick V8

    70 455 riv

    What do you use to weld a bead in the slot ?

    I adjusted the vaccum advance and put a plastic peice on the pin lighter springs.

    Initial advance is 7

    Total is 33

    My problem is i still ping all the way through , I cant open 4 barrel at all or it pings . I have messed with distributor over and over again .

    I am at this point where i dont know what else to do , but try the weld and keep adjusting the vaccum advance .

    Any 1 in orlando want to help?

    Or what else should i try? New dist.

    Thanks for any help!!!

    Justin

  15. #115
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Oakland Gardens, N.Y.
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    Default Re: Power Timing your Buick V8

    Quote Originally Posted by justinsinternet View Post
    70 455 riv

    What do you use to weld a bead in the slot ?

    I adjusted the vaccum advance and put a plastic peice on the pin lighter springs.

    Initial advance is 7

    Total is 33

    My problem is i still ping all the way through , I cant open 4 barrel at all or it pings . I have messed with distributor over and over again .

    I am at this point where i dont know what else to do , but try the weld and keep adjusting the vaccum advance .

    Any 1 in orlando want to help?

    Or what else should i try? New dist.

    Thanks for any help!!!

    Justin
    Justin,
    You may think you have 33 total, but the distributor may have more in it and advance more at higher RPM's. What springs are you using? The ones in the Crane adjustable vacuum advance kit(3 pair) are ideal. The 2 lightest springs(yellow) will bring all the advance in by 2000 RPM or lower. Makes it easy to check your total. Also, forget the vacuum advance. When tuning, work on one thing at a time or you will make yourself crazy. Disconnect and plug the vacuum advance. Once you get the good springs, adjust your total and make some full throttle runs. You don't want any ping with your advance in as early as possible (under 2500 RPM) Just because someone else runs 33 or 36 doesn't mean your engine will want that much. Find out what your engine needs. Usually it is somewhere between 30-36, but a stock engine may want no more than 30. Find out. Once you have the mechanical figured out, then limit the vacuum advance cannister to no more than 8-10*. Make a block off plate. All the info you need is in this thread. look at the pictures in the beginning.

    Not sure what kind of welding they use to fill the slot. Maybe JB Weld will work, I'm not sure, but you need to take the distributor out and apart to do it right.
    Larry
    1998 "Fully Optioned" SC3800 Riviera
    70 GS 455 Stage1, TSP 470, 602 HP@ 5900, 589 TQ @ 4900
    TA Hyd Roller Cam, 230*/238*, 112, .544"/.577" lift, 4-7 swap
    MSD Digital 6+, Ignitionman Distributor w/MSD trigger
    THM400 with Ultimate 258mm converter, Gear Vendors OD
    AED 1000 HO Carb, 800 CFM 7042240 Quadrajet
    8.5 10 bolt, 3.73's Race weight 4025lbs.
    Best E.T. 11.54 Best MPH, 116.06
    Larrymta@verizon.net, GSCA #291
    BPG # 1063
    N.E. GS/GN Club Assistant Director

  16. #116
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    39

    Default Re: Power Timing your Buick V8

    Thank you Larry for your info , i followed everything on this since you first posted it . Just never really messed with it just put in real heavy springs and that was fine until now , I am ready.

    Ok i have the crane spring set and the lightest installed ,thats where i am gettin the 33* at, i beleive its fully advanced around 2000 or so rpms.

    I made a block plate for the vaccumm advance travel and it seems to work , maybe i need to close the gap alittle bit more .

    I time it with the vaccum off , i will leave it off and make some wot runs and see what i get . I will also try jb weld , dont know why i didnt think of that before ?

    I guess i need to go around 30 or so . The peice of rubber i put on the pin nearly cuts the travel in half , i was amazed that it went to 33 i thought it would be around 20 or 25 . Alittle more filler material like 1/16 of jb should do it .

    When i get all the ping out i can start adjusting vaccum advance then.

    Thanks
    Justin

  17. #117

    Default Re: Power Timing your Buick V8

    10 degrees measures just under 1/8". So if you use a 7/64 drill bit to measure the gap, that should limit you to 10* vac advance.
    Adam Martin
    BPG# 1358
    BCA# 39765
    1970 Buick Skylark Custom 455 Coupe
    www.antiqueautomotiveservice.com

    http://www.antiqueautomotiveservice.com/images/logo_top.gif

  18. #118
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    100

    Default Re: Power Timing your Buick V8

    I have read and re read this post about making an adjustment plate for the vac can and understand the principle here --- well sort of My question is --(btw I have an Accel adjustable vac can, ready to install) with the forementioned stop added-- what I don't see is what the can's adjustable spring should be set at. Should it be screwed all the way in the can or all the way out?
    Barry

  19. #119
    Join Date
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    Oakland Gardens, N.Y.
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    Default Re: Power Timing your Buick V8

    Quote Originally Posted by goshawks00 View Post
    I have read and re read this post about making an adjustment plate for the vac can and understand the principle here --- well sort of My question is --(btw I have an Accel adjustable vac can, ready to install) with the forementioned stop added-- what I don't see is what the can's adjustable spring should be set at. Should it be screwed all the way in the can or all the way out?
    Barry

    The spring controls the rate of vacuum advance. Use the adjustment to dial out part throttle ping. The stiffer the spring adjustment is, the faster the advance will pull out when you get on the car. You don't want it too stiff though. You should adjust it so that at 40 MPH in 3rd gear, it doesn't ping when you load the engine.
    Larry
    1998 "Fully Optioned" SC3800 Riviera
    70 GS 455 Stage1, TSP 470, 602 HP@ 5900, 589 TQ @ 4900
    TA Hyd Roller Cam, 230*/238*, 112, .544"/.577" lift, 4-7 swap
    MSD Digital 6+, Ignitionman Distributor w/MSD trigger
    THM400 with Ultimate 258mm converter, Gear Vendors OD
    AED 1000 HO Carb, 800 CFM 7042240 Quadrajet
    8.5 10 bolt, 3.73's Race weight 4025lbs.
    Best E.T. 11.54 Best MPH, 116.06
    Larrymta@verizon.net, GSCA #291
    BPG # 1063
    N.E. GS/GN Club Assistant Director

  20. #120
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Aston, Pennsylvania
    Posts
    715

    Default Re: Power Timing your Buick V8

    Ok, I'm real confused after reading all this, but I'm gonna give it a shot to understand.

    Let me start with what I've got. Stock '68 GS400, points distributor with a Pertronix Ignitor II, put back at stock timing. From what I've read, I need the Crane Cams kit for the springs, and maybe the Mr. Gasket for the bushing for the pin, unless I can make a plate or use screws to stop the travel of the pin?

    From there I'm so utterly lost. I can set initial timing, no issues there, and I'm pretty sure I understand how the vacuum advance works. But the mechanical advance has me confused, how do I set it?. Can someone please tell me what I'm not understanding.
    Nick

    1968 GS400 auto- The green paint reminds me of where all my money went.
    1972 Olds Cutlass Supreme rag top, 350, 4 speed- Dad's ride.
    2000 S10 4 banger- underpowered workhorse

    Horsepower is how fast you go into the wall, torque is how much of the wall you take with you.

  21. #121
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    Feb 2002
    Location
    Oakland Gardens, N.Y.
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    Default Re: Power Timing your Buick V8

    Quote Originally Posted by BigBlock68 View Post
    Ok, I'm real confused after reading all this, but I'm gonna give it a shot to understand.

    Let me start with what I've got. Stock '68 GS400, points distributor with a Pertronix Ignitor II, put back at stock timing. From what I've read, I need the Crane Cams kit for the springs, and maybe the Mr. Gasket for the bushing for the pin, unless I can make a plate or use screws to stop the travel of the pin?

    From there I'm so utterly lost. I can set initial timing, no issues there, and I'm pretty sure I understand how the vacuum advance works. But the mechanical advance has me confused, how do I set it?. Can someone please tell me what I'm not understanding.
    The mechanical advance in any distributor is a set amount of degrees. You CANNOT adjust it without taking the distributor apart and doing some welding and filing. There is a pin that moves in a slot and that is what determines how much mechanical advance there is in a particular distributor. You can put a bushing on the pin which limits the pin travel and therefore, the amount of mechanical advance. That is all you can do without disassembling the distributor.
    When you change the springs, you change the rate at which the mechanical advance comes in, NOT THE AMOUNT, THAT IS SET FOR YOUR PARTICULAR DISTRIBUTOR. If you have the stock distributor for the 68 GS400 (1111285), it has between 30 and 34* of mechanical advance. That is why the initial timing is specified as TDC (0*). The stock springs allow 30-34* at 4600 RPM. You can boost performance by putting in lighter springs. Instead of getting 30-34* at 4600 RPM, the lighter springs allow the 30-34* in at more like 2500 RPM. You still run the initial at TDC, but your mechanical is all in at 2500 or less RPM. Problem is that most cammed and modified BBB's like at least 12* of initial advance. You CANNOT run that because you have too much mechanical advance(30-34*) in that distributor, and you would end up with 42-46*. The lighter springs can help alot by themselves, but when you use them you have to shorten the amount of vacuum advance to 8-10* That you do with an adjustable vacuum advance or you fashion a block off plate. Hope that makes it clearer.
    Larry
    1998 "Fully Optioned" SC3800 Riviera
    70 GS 455 Stage1, TSP 470, 602 HP@ 5900, 589 TQ @ 4900
    TA Hyd Roller Cam, 230*/238*, 112, .544"/.577" lift, 4-7 swap
    MSD Digital 6+, Ignitionman Distributor w/MSD trigger
    THM400 with Ultimate 258mm converter, Gear Vendors OD
    AED 1000 HO Carb, 800 CFM 7042240 Quadrajet
    8.5 10 bolt, 3.73's Race weight 4025lbs.
    Best E.T. 11.54 Best MPH, 116.06
    Larrymta@verizon.net, GSCA #291
    BPG # 1063
    N.E. GS/GN Club Assistant Director

  22. #122
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Aston, Pennsylvania
    Posts
    715

    Default Re: Power Timing your Buick V8

    Larry you just cleared so much up for me. So you're saying a modified BBB will need the initial readjusted, whereas with my stocker I can just use the lighter springs and change the vacuum advance to an adjustable one and keep the initial at 0*?

    Edit: Is the vacuum advance the Crane Cams kit comes with adjustable already with that little black plate?
    Last edited by BigBlock68; 07-25-2007 at 11:44 PM.
    Nick

    1968 GS400 auto- The green paint reminds me of where all my money went.
    1972 Olds Cutlass Supreme rag top, 350, 4 speed- Dad's ride.
    2000 S10 4 banger- underpowered workhorse

    Horsepower is how fast you go into the wall, torque is how much of the wall you take with you.

  23. #123
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Oakland Gardens, N.Y.
    Posts
    27,208

    Default Re: Power Timing your Buick V8

    Quote Originally Posted by BigBlock68 View Post
    Larry you just cleared so much up for me. So you're saying a modified BBB will need the initial readjusted, whereas with my stocker I can just use the lighter springs and change the vacuum advance to an adjustable one and keep the initial at 0*?
    Yes, while most engines will like more initial timing, it is more important with a modified engine (bigger cam, more jetting, etc.) If the engine is stock, just changing to lighter springs will boost performance and low end. Leave the initial at 0* This all assuming you have that 1111285 distributor. Are you sure it is the original distributor?

    Quote Originally Posted by BigBlock68
    Edit: Is the vacuum advance the Crane Cams kit comes with adjustable already with that little black plate?
    The Crane Cams adjustable vacuum advance comes with some really nice springs. The unit itself has that little black cam that limits how much advance you get from the cannister. However, the Crane instructions tell you to mount it onto one of the cannister mounting screws. It works alot better if you drill and tap a hole in the arm and mount it to the arm. Look at the pictures in my first post. With Cranes instructions, moving the black cam pushes the link further into the cannister, and that moves your initial timing up. You don't want that. If you mount the cam on the arm, it stops the link from moving it's entire travel and limits the vacuum advance that way. With a stock engine, you could also just use the stock cannister limited with a home made block off plate. Again look at the pictures in my first post.
    Larry
    1998 "Fully Optioned" SC3800 Riviera
    70 GS 455 Stage1, TSP 470, 602 HP@ 5900, 589 TQ @ 4900
    TA Hyd Roller Cam, 230*/238*, 112, .544"/.577" lift, 4-7 swap
    MSD Digital 6+, Ignitionman Distributor w/MSD trigger
    THM400 with Ultimate 258mm converter, Gear Vendors OD
    AED 1000 HO Carb, 800 CFM 7042240 Quadrajet
    8.5 10 bolt, 3.73's Race weight 4025lbs.
    Best E.T. 11.54 Best MPH, 116.06
    Larrymta@verizon.net, GSCA #291
    BPG # 1063
    N.E. GS/GN Club Assistant Director

  24. #124
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Aston, Pennsylvania
    Posts
    715

    Default Re: Power Timing your Buick V8

    Where would I find the numbers on the distributer? I'm 90% sure its original since all the rest of the engine is, aside from the water pump. I'll check just to be sure.

    I don't think I've got anything sitting around at home to make a block off plate out of. Could I use a piece of scrap aluminum that I could get from work? It's really thin aluminum coil for capping windows and doors and we always have alot of small pieces sitting around.

    Edit: Never mind, I went and looked at it and found the numbers. It does have have 1111285 distributer.
    Last edited by BigBlock68; 07-26-2007 at 04:25 PM.
    Nick

    1968 GS400 auto- The green paint reminds me of where all my money went.
    1972 Olds Cutlass Supreme rag top, 350, 4 speed- Dad's ride.
    2000 S10 4 banger- underpowered workhorse

    Horsepower is how fast you go into the wall, torque is how much of the wall you take with you.

  25. #125
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Oakland Gardens, N.Y.
    Posts
    27,208

    Default Re: Power Timing your Buick V8

    Quote Originally Posted by BigBlock68 View Post
    Where would I find the numbers on the distributer? I'm 90% sure its original since all the rest of the engine is, aside from the water pump. I'll check just to be sure.

    I don't think I've got anything sitting around at home to make a block off plate out of. Could I use a piece of scrap aluminum that I could get from work? It's really thin aluminum coil for capping windows and doors and we always have alot of small pieces sitting around.

    Edit: Never mind, I went and looked at it and found the numbers. It does have have 1111285 distributer.
    OK,
    You have the original distributor so you should stay with the 0* initial timing. You can use any metal as long as it is thin enough. The screws you need have to be short enough not to interfere with the link. You don't need to modify the vacuum advance until you install the lighter springs.

    Take a look at the underside of the weight plate and see if there is a bushing on the pin. There is a picture of the pin in slot and bushing in post #3 of this thread.
    Larry
    1998 "Fully Optioned" SC3800 Riviera
    70 GS 455 Stage1, TSP 470, 602 HP@ 5900, 589 TQ @ 4900
    TA Hyd Roller Cam, 230*/238*, 112, .544"/.577" lift, 4-7 swap
    MSD Digital 6+, Ignitionman Distributor w/MSD trigger
    THM400 with Ultimate 258mm converter, Gear Vendors OD
    AED 1000 HO Carb, 800 CFM 7042240 Quadrajet
    8.5 10 bolt, 3.73's Race weight 4025lbs.
    Best E.T. 11.54 Best MPH, 116.06
    Larrymta@verizon.net, GSCA #291
    BPG # 1063
    N.E. GS/GN Club Assistant Director

 

 
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