Anybody mount a different compressor? My plan is to use a Sanden and plumb it into the factory evaporator system. What did you use for the hose-plumbing to go from from sanden to the factory evaporator? Any other thoughts and :kodak: are well received.
The Sanden is a very good compressor, BUT if you currently use an A6 the Sanden would actually be a slight downgrade. There are no performance or reliability gains, and there is actually the potential for some loss in those areas with the Sanden. If you are looking to save weight or reduce power consumption, the Sanden would be a good choice. If you are looking for a "better" compressor, the Sanden isn't it. Most folks in the AC biz agree that the A6 was probably the best compressor used in automobile/Light truck/MD truck applications. The hoses will have to be custom made. You'll buy the 4 proper fittings and the hose. Then, you'll install the fittings and get the hose length and routing the way you want them. Match mark the fittings to the hoses, then have the fittings crimped. I used to use NAPA for this until I bought a beadlock crimper.
Has any body changed out the exp. valve and the stv on a 64 Riv.??????? What do you have to do? any tips would be appreciated.
I hear ya. Weight and parasitic power are my reasons for going Sanden. As my friend who owns a junkyard once said, "Those big havy Frigidaire untis are the ONLY ones I NEVER sell because they NEVER go bad!" I may get impatient and just go with an A6 and be done with it.
They are a heavy durable bugger, and the few I've ever replaced usually were damaged from sitting open for years or even external damage(???). (There really are some people who could break an anvil with a rubber hammer). The Sanden does make for a light, clean looking installation. I just wanted to mention how good the A6 is because a lot of people tend to think "newer is better". It is in many cases, but not in this particular one. The Sanden is a good choice for what you want to do, though. Check with ackits.com. They don't show them on the website, but think they carry custom mounting brackets for Seltec compressors. They're similar to Sanden. Mounting with stock accessories is relatively easy if the brackets are available. Mounting can get tricky if you have a weird custom accessory setup, like a serpentine belt system with underdrive pulleys on a blown inline 6 cyl.:shock: If AMA can't help you, oldairproducts.com also carries a large line of custom mounting brackets. Most everything on their website is Ford or Chevy, but you can contact them to see if they can do others. Good Luck
Once the system is empty, it's mainly just unbolt the old and put in the new, then evacuate and recharge. You have to get the sensing bulb on the expansion valve anchored well in the right spot,but that's the only potential gotcha. You'll need a new receiver/drier too. (I've gotta brush up on STVs, I haven't seen one on quite a while). Why do you want to replace them?
My A6 has a stripped mounting bolt in it. I'm guessing I can get a used one or a rebuilt one somewhere?
put in a heli-coil in it or drill and tap to the next larger size. the proceedure is about the same with each.
Heli-coil or longer bolt. Either way, that's no reason to scrap a good A6. If a shiny new bolt or nut looks out of place, paint it black.
Yes, I also agree with staying original, If Possible. Im my case when I built my GS all A/C components were missing, so I fabricated a tempory system to use with the engine I installed {Olds 350] untill My 455 is finished. I used a new R4 Compressor, Chevy truck dryer and orfice, 82 Caprice Condencer, 83 Cutlass Hose ends which A local A/C shop made the hoses using them. Looks factory, Works great, It's better than sweeting. But I now have all the correct parts to convert it back when the 455 is installed.
This compressor has already chucked a clutch on me so I'm not totally assured of its integrety and I know the system is low on R12. After the stripped hole I'm wondering how bad it is and if I should just pull the system down and sell the R12 and run an R134a system like I will be doing on the Turbo6 anyway.
Your (possibly) flaky A6 is certainly the exception, not the norm. They "do" fail occasionally, but failures are very few compared to most other compressors, even with todays "modern lightweight' compressors. Even if you run R134a, stay with the A6 compressor and POA valve! (Frigidaire AC System) I mention this because I've heard many people refer to a Cycling Clutch Orifice Tube system as "an R134a system" and some folks think that a CCOT system is a must for good R134a performance. It's a common misconception but not true whatsoever.:spank: CCOTs were in common use well before R134a was required. CCOT was designed by GM for Model Year 1977 vehicles, only after they sold Frigidaire, along with the rights to the (Frigidaire) POA/A6 system , in 1975. (GMs biggest "Oops" ever, some corporate lawyers surely got fired over that one). The CCOT system became very popular in the 1980s because it was very cheap to build and had fewer active (expensive to manufacture mechanical) parts and the lighter compressors used less power. The cooling performance is a compromise between really great at low temps, and "just ok" at high temps. POA systems work much better than Any CCOT system over a broader range of temps regardless of refrigerant. Most MVAC Techs agree that the Frigidaire (GM) POA system was, and still is, the best automotive AC system ever designed. Ford even used it in their big cars through the 1970s, without change except for labelling. A small adjustment of the POA valve is all that is usually needed for good results with R134a in a POA system. The only other mod that might be necessary is a more efficient condenser to get "really cold" vent temps in the mid 30s. The condenser mod is usually only needed in areas that see a lot of very high temps (95+), like Arizona, New Mexico, south Texas, south Florida, So.Cal, desert Nevada, etc. Arizona Mobile Air, www.ackits.com carries brand new A6 compressors. They're pricy at about $350-400. Quality remans are about $100-150. The A6 is about the only compressor I would ever suggest being purchased used. Often a shaft seal replacement is all that is needed on a used one to get many years of service. Okay, okay, I'll stop rambling and ranting, but I hope you get the idea. Your car already has the best MVAC system ever designed, and any "modernization" or "update" will actually be a "downgrade" to it except for, maybe, a larger condenser.
The R134a system I was reffering to was simply the fittings, dryer, and refridgerant swap; still running the A6 till the nailhead is yanked. When I change over the car to the Turbo6, that is probably going to be around this time next year, I'll have to run the compressor off of the '87 Grand National adapt the cars system to work with it. I have a brand new, never run, professionally (by a GM HVAC specialist) Harrison radial compressor for the car, will I need to convert over to the pulse cycle system?
If you want to use the R-4 compressor, go for it. In my experience they're really not a good choice as they tend to have a high failure rate. Even with that compressor, KEEP THE POA! You don't "need" to convert to a cycling system. It sounds like your engine will see a lot of high revs :TU: You really should consider a Sanden compressor.
Engine is rev limited to 6000rpm, 28" rear tire, 3.42's, and a .67 Overdrive ratio. The R4 is the only one that works with the surpentine system that I know of. I'll attach pictures of how its set up so you can see the complications in trying to add something else.
How can someone obtain a larger condenser? Maybe one with more rows of coils. That would really upgrade my AC when it gets hot outside I believe.:laugh:
R12 condensers were a serpentine design, one long tube from end to end. R134a condensers are Parallel Flow, with tubes set up much like a radiator. They dissipate heat more efficiently. Parallel flow condensers are available but usually require mounting fabrication and new lines to be made. There are a "few" direct fit condensers available for older cars, but not many. Here's some an example of a universal fit:http://tinyurl.com/27of9d
