I can get my hands on a manufactured 350 short block. But it's bored 0.060'' over. Could that cause any problems? Or will these sbb 350's handle this just fine? Just wondering.
Sounds like a bad idea, unless they really know small block Buicks: http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=31432 http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=4631 Devon
It is ok only if you are using it to drag race where it will be cooled down after each run. It may tend to overheat on the street. Dan
hmm could've searched this place before I asked...thanks for those topic links. Still kinda glad I asked. Now I'm not at all sure if I want this block. It's for street use. The guy said 'I believe it is a 0.060 bore'. Well, he'd better be damn sure. I'll ask him again. Thanks for the helpful info so far guys! :TU:
Been mailing back and forth with the machine shop who sells this short block, minutes ago. He said it is a .060 bore for sure, but still has enough 'meat'. I asked about sonic testing, but they don't do that... oh something more I forgot to say, I want to prepare this Buick 350 to run on ethanol (E85). And that stuff burns cooler than gasoline. I still find it tricky though. Anyone else who can shed some light on this?
Chevy High Performance magazine had a recent article on converting a Holley double pumper from gas to E85. I suggest reading the article, August 08 edition, p.44, if for nothing else than just to maybe pick up some tips. I found it informative. On an aside, I wonder with all the talk about .060 bored blocks and overheating, how thick is the casting of a cylinder wall normally, or what percentage of the wall thickness is being removed when you take .030 off of the wall? I understand that casting thickness varies, but if an "average" thickness had to be picked, what would it be?
The thickness varies so there is no way to tell what is left except for sonic testing which they did not do.
i would tend to say it will run hot also, seen it in a few 60 over v6s wont be much different in v8 i would look around abit more
thought i would piggy back on this thread. i bought a '70 .060 over short block at the beginning of the year and just recently started tearing down the old 72 engine getting it ready for the replacement. upon tearing it down, iv found the cylinders to be in great shape. that being said, am i better off getting the 72 engine cleaned up, tanked and machined as oppose to finishing the .060 over block? if thats the case, what can i salvage from the fresh short block to save some cash. the crank and rods? i would need new pistons correct? if any parts swap over, should i replace the bearings as well? pete
Correct, you would need 20 or 30 over pistons unless you could get away with honing the 72 block and using file fit piston rings for a fine tuned sizing on the rings. I would bring the crank and rods to the machine shop with the 72 engine and let them pick the best parts to use for the build. I would not bother with the 70 60 over block, probly just a waste of time and disapointing overheating issues.
Pete Is the 60 over fresh with new pistons and ready for heads? This is asking a lot but if some one could try a 60 over and give us results on the street we would know for sure if it would over heat. If it did over heat you would have to go though the trouble to redo the other block. Of course I dont know how you are setup to change motors. This is just a sugestion. Use your own judgement. Dan
When I started racing Buicks it was with the 350. The wagon had a 350-2, 3-speed on the tree, 3.23 rear gear, later I installed a 4.10 gear. When I built it up I installed a set of 265 super stock TRW Chevy pistons. They were the lightest in the TRW book. I seem to remember about 465 grams. I bored the 350 .075"over to a 3.875" bore and had to deck the block about .075"-.100". I also used a set of ford 312 valves because they were larger. Later on I changed from the ford valves to an Olds valve. Ported the heads in our back yard shed my self, bought a set of Jahns pistons from Kenne-Bell and had them grind me a cam which is known today as the TA308S-350. Car ran 12.30. As a mater of fact, I still have that engine up on a pallet rack. It also has the first 350 intake I made on it with a Holley 4779 750 dbl pump. Currently were building an engine for my son Michael's '70 Skylark and its bored .060" over as well. One thing you can do is drill the head gaskets on the exhaust side, 5/16" on the ends and 3/8" in the center. This will help move more water into the head especially under the exhaust ports. Plus increases the volume of water flowing through the engine. On another note. The 455 block is going to the foundry this week. So we are getting closer to the 350 projects. We were going to do the single plane intake first but I'm leaning towards the cylinder head.
if i had more experience id see it through. i really want to get this engine in the car, but cant imagine having to do this all over again if the poo hits the fan. if anyone local wants to lend a hand id be all for it. but i think its an experiment better suited for someone with more knowhow. i found a fresh local 72 455 long block for sale that im thinking might be a better option (although i really wanted the sleeper factor of a 350) :eek2: if i decide to go with the 455, ill list the .060 over short block for sale for what i paid, and throw in some extra goodies from the old engine.
Why not drop in a running 350? Heavily broken in 350s are the best because they are MUCH less prone to knock or bearing issues. Regasket, rubber rear main seal, and paint and there you go a reliable cheap engine.
no runners in the area. for the price its gonna take to redo my heads and machine the old block, i can get pick up the fresh 455 long block. just really weighing out my options right now. in six months im gonna be moving back to the coast and may not have a garage. thats another thing that has me looking for the easiest way out. :spank:
