Yes it is. Freon/ R12 is non flammable. If HC12a leaks in a confined area (like the interior or under the hood) and exposed to an ignition source, it will cause an explosive condition. I wouldnt smoke when working with it
Yeah HC-12 has an extra additive in it for leak detection... so if you all of a sudden smell something sweet then you know you have a massive leak.:shock:
That 20 gallons of gasoline is in a system designed to safely contain it and no part of that system ever enters the passenger compartment. The AC system is not made to contain a flammable substance and the evaporator is right there in the car with you.
I don't know anything about HC12a but I have had Freeze12 in my `65 for about two years now. I haven't had any problems with it and it cools just fine. In the morning when before it gets into the 90's down here it will blow at 38 degrees out the center duct, after that it goes up to 42 degrees.
I think that if there is a leak by the time it becomes explosive you would know it because of the smell. Common sense will tell you don't light up anything
First of all, your relying on the fact that someone will know the smell and put two and two together. Not a good assumption. And its not just that. What happens in the event of a accident and an A/C line gets ruptured? Or there is an underhood fire? Its a safety issue. Much like the inertia switchs that most fuel injection cars have. In case of an impact, the switch shuts off the fuel pump. The inertia switch is not needed at all.....unless your in an accident. Is an accident unlikely?
People ride around with a tank filled half gas half vapor everyday. I am not telling anyone to use it. But I will give it a try seen as it is a drop-in :TU:
r12 is cheap i pay $22 a pound and all freon will eventually leak out past the seals naturally most cars in the 5-8 yr old range will have leaked out enough to need recharged by then add a little dye and you can find your leaks w a black light use the real stuff r12 or r134a dont use any imposters i dont want your mixed crap in my recovery machines _hence my snapon refrigerant identifier-
The point of most "drop ins" is that they are cheap enough so you don't have to actually "fix" the system. Hey, it's only $10-15 to top it off. I don't need to actually spend money to fix my AC correctly. When R12 was $1 per pound, very few people actually fixed the problem. They just kept adding gas until the system failed completely. Then they just opened the windows. The more things change, the more they stay the same.
I think I will just put the windows down even though the wife says it blows her hair. I like the wild look anyway.:3gears:
Well guys the finnal results are in! Compressor on low pressure line 38psig, high pressure line right @ 103.....burrr:bglasses: new compressor, accumulator, and expantion valve of course I flushed the lines and vac down the system with gauges, then turned valves off disconnected thevac pump andhooked up the refrigerant can purged the line a little turned the low side valve on till I got about 40 psig and turned the compressor on. let it charge . 3-1/2 cans later burrr.
Congrads! I just did my second compressor replacement in my Riv in less than a year. Darn front seals!
Keep in mind that the ceramic shaft seal of an A6 compressor is designed to seep oil to lube the seal. They can leak a good amount of oil and not leak refrigerant. Oil leakage is considered normal, refrigerant leakage is not. The shaft seal can be replaced with a modern neoprene seal to remedy the oil slinging. If the shaft seal leaks refrigerant,it's not the oil. It's the front housing where the shaft passes through. Once it wears, the shaft can move around and quickly destroy the seal. Many budget rebuilders allow too much clearance there in an effort to keep costs down. It's a real crapshoot whether you get a good one or a leaker. The better rebuilt compressors used a new housing or were machined for a new bushing but they cost more, usually in the $300-350 range. Unfortunately, due to low demand many "quality" rebuilders don't do A6 compressors any more. I haven't been able to find a good reman A6 in about a year. This leaves New compressors. They used to be in the $350-375 range but have jumped to almost $500.:shock: (Due to lack of competition from "good" remans, maybe?) There is also the Pro6Ten. It's a Sanden based compressor with A6 mounting and line connections to make it a bolt in replacement. They're near the same price as a new A6.
dang manring leaked the pressure switch o-ring leaked so I'm thinking of having one custom made for the switch.
Man guys this sucks... so I took the compressor off a sec ago and low and behold it wasn't the o ring :af: it was the half plastic half metal high low pressure switch. Ok I'm thinking of going two ways leaving the pressure switch hole plugged... or fix the switch. The switch leaked right where they used silicon:birthday: to seal the plastic and metal joint where the plug is look it up on line. Google superheat conversion it will give you detailed instructions on how to and part #s for the new switches then look them up on rock auto by typin in the part numbers. Has anyone just bypassed the switch all together?and if so what are your results?
