If what you bought as "R-12" had "R-22" in it, your compressor would have been trashed. If you bought what you thought was R-12 and it was really R-22, your system would have been trashed. R-22 is not compatible with R-12 systems. Mixing R-12 and TC-134A isn't something I've heard of, but you never know. If your mechanic knows what's good for him, there is only one thing that should come out of his "R-12" container, and that it R-12. Nota Bene: The GM systems are designed to provide AC with overkill, like Florida in August at 95[FONT=Times New Roman, serif][/FONT] with 95% humidity, so it will work in California, with the same temps but generally no humidity. In that case, as the owner's manual says, you can temper it by sliding the heat control up a little. Really. Good to hear your AC is working well.
try replacing the heater control valve, it sounds like it may be a little gummed up and not closing completely. or you could get a ford valve that shuts off both hoses like in my pics above and really rest your mind. You see, I been there, done that, got the shirt and the badge to prove it....
Glad you got it figured out. I always analyze my recycled refrigerant but have not heard of virgin refrigerant being mixed? I will sample some of my virgin R12 and see what it says. I have a few 30lb cylinders one is recently purchased.
seems like i posted some version of this question. Now that the a/c blows hard and ice cold im back to an old problem. On the highway or around town with the a/c on it stays a cool 190 degrees but as soon as you get stuck in a line of traffic or idle more than a few minutes,the temp begins to rise with a/c on. once i went to see how hot it would get and chickened out at230 still rising. My radiator is now 4 core ,stock water pump ,7 blade fan ,recent flush new coolant, no leaks. I wonder back in 1970 did this car new do this or is there something wrong. Also i think my only solution maybe electric fans . what do you guys think,marty
Not electric fans... your stock system should outperform a hybridized system. First, you didn't list a fan shroud- you need one. Second, you didn't list a fan clutch- you need a thermostatic fan clutch. The best one to have is from a 1985 Chevy 3500 series truck, among other applications. Do you have all that already? And, of course, you need to be SURE your timing is set right.
The fan clutch for an 85 C3500 is a direct bolt on (and even looks almost the same), and is super duty. If you heat up at low speeds, your problem is most likely air flow, and if you heat up at highway speeds, most likely water flow. Are you running a vacuum advance? That helps too.
vacuum advance,and the ONLY time i overheat is idle a/c on . all other instances stays 190,idle traffic, hot A sun, highway. by the way clutch is good i checked it. it is a heavy duty new clutch. still your right seems as though an air problem. if i put it in neutral with a/c on slows the overheat problem because of more rpm. though i must say that even though i got the a/c fixed it will be a rarity when i use it so it is not a mission critical item. we take trips maybe 3 times a year and if it gets too hot i put the top up for a while so the overheat problem will rarely be seen. my concern is why it reacts so quickly. i have been told an aluminum radiator would solve this????? marty
ok . im narrowed down to a few questions. in 1970 when the car was new ,what happened temp wise when that owner turned his ac on and sat at idle sun or not. when i do , my motor takes 8 minutes to go nuclear sitting in my garage, idling a/c on in park. when i then turn the a/c off 20 minutes later it has cooled back down to195. second, the following are new 185 degree thermostat which works properly, heavy duty clutch working, belts, radiator new 4 core , 7 blade fan third,is it possible that with stage one heads and a 290-94h cam , its not capable of idling without overheating a/c on ??? the builder of this motor suggests running 160 degree thermostat, which i used last year but caused me problems with fuel burn as to running too cool maybe the compressor has problems also the condensor is old.... any of this ring a bell before i change to super duty clutch
FRANK i was thinking about what you said about the clutch. ill have to verify thermal or not but it doesnt overheat in idle or ever. only a/c on idle. highway or around town stays 190. but come home day or night with the a/c on put her in park and in 10 minutes it will be like 3 mile island.marty.....ps again have stock shroud, 12 deg btdc. atleast we agree its an air problem not a water problem..i think
I live in Austin, Texas, which I believe is closer to the sun than anywhere in the US. My 70 Wildcat was a bi*ch to keep cool in the summer, and I did EVERYTHING. Other cars not so much. Maybe you have a car than just wants to run warmer than it should...
well a setback....yesterday and after the a/c shop charged ,i was down to 53 degrees. now im up to 65...r12 is going up in flames,must be a leak. bad news is hes going to have to evacuate whats left and ill have to wait till next year to continue any repairs, any repair will be too expensive at this point.martyou:
TIME TO GET MY GLASSES..... had set the a/c control on vent last night duh. SO i put it back on a/c and drove around .it got down to 48 degrees in my car and was so cold my wife asked me to warm it up. So no a/c problem..........
Marty, If you let the car get around 200 and shut it off can you spin the fan or is it very hard to turn? Has your engine been bored? Try the HD fan that the other member told you about, it will help with your problem. It is designed to help keep big engines cool. You will notice it will be a little nosier because it locks up sooner and tighter. Nelson
At 200 degrees the fan spins about 6 inches. it suppedly was bored 50 over according to scotty g. i have a new hd clutch, members 7 blade fan new 185 therm, new belts, stock water pump, radiator just reb to 4 row and system flushed then 2 gal coolant top off water,timing 12 deg initial. car drives 190 and at idle and highway. but with a/c on drives 190, highway 190 and idle goes nuclear. i have tought it is a wind problem but what about solving that with TA s new 6 blade water pump. its all i can think of. Also while im overheating at idle a/c on if i shut off a/c it takes about 10 minutes to cool back to 190 .Also i raised idlle to no avail. marty
I had a hd clutch also and when I went to the suburban one it helped. You are getting a lot of heat from the over bore and you will probably have to go to a aluminum radiator. Nelson
That owner in 1970 had a genuine Harrison, American-made radiator and core that came OEM on his car. In 1970, they weren't worried about keeping costs down by selling an off-shore made core with reduced tube count and reduced fin count like they do now. So he was nice and cool and didn't worry about overheating, it worked as the original designers intended it to. Unless you special ordered a high-efficieny or high-density tube 4-row core, the radiator capacity is no more than the original OEM 3-row Harrison.
well new development. before as i was saying,i would only overheat a/c on and only at idle. all other times 190 degrees .a/c on or off 30 mph and higher no overheat. TODAY it started to warm up a/c off going in idle at night fro 190 to 215 in 10 minutes of idle now a/c off.....obviosly something is going bad. clutch,thermostat ,radiator or other.tommorow im going to change the clutch. starting from cheapest first,marty
