Have a fella who has these brands of 12 & 14 oz R12 ....any specific brand best or its all the same stuff in different colored cans...??? Ig-lo Dupont National Arctic-Air Sercon Remac Gunk-cold shot
also .... system takes 3.75 lbs Freon .....so that's 60oz ..so 5 cans @ 12 oz each should cover that ...Correct?
I think it is more or less the same. No idea if that stuff had a shelf life though. I believe Dupont made the original stuff in which Freon was the trade name. Last time I was quoted an r-12 price it was $125 per pound and that was probably 13-14 years ago.
$20-$25 per 12 oz can on the low side...and then have seen $30-$40 as well shelf life ?...they say as long as its sealed r12 is good for a very long time ,the only ones .that might have issues is the r12 mixed with dye or oil.
Freon, R12, 134A, R22, R410A ect does not go bad or expire. As long as the can or system is sealed its good. Granted the system has not had some sort of mechanical failure or burn out.(cars exempt from burn out) You wont find a old car with a full charge of 12 due to the seals and hoses degrading over time and or the shaft seal on the A6 leaking. The air conditioner in your home has no rubber hose, only brazed copper. Sometimes I come across 25 yr old units running well with the original charge in them. I've got a cabinet full of the little cans. Some could be 30+ years old.Also have a reclaim tank that I put 12 into when having to service one of my cars.
Before I took it all apart 15 years ago the ac worked very good and cold ,and a dry compressor no oil slinging....I have no serious ac experience since tech school 40 years ago All I plan on doing is flushing everything and just a new txv valve and drier ,reseal all lines with new o rings, fill with oil and evacuate and then have the system suck in the r12. When adding oil /10.5 oz they say most in the compressor and that you can throw a few ounces in drier and even in the txv and or poa .. question : when I evacuate will it suck out any of the oil ??
I put in 100 psi and then bubble check every connection. If Im not 100% sure I got a tight system I'll leave it under pressure over night. If you check with freon your readings will vary due to temperature.
The reason we use nitrogen rather than compressed air is that it has no H2O in it. Moisture is very bad in refrigeration systems. If you dont have access to a tank then just put it in a deep vacuum and let it sit 24 hours. If its still holding -29.9 then you got a good system.
Eurika ! Cold Gold Found some local fella on craigslist for a good reasonable price on r12 and cans externals preserved very good ...now to gets some theory on compressor reseal and front seal replacement on youtube original price tags on cans $1.50 ....those were the days
I wouldnt even mess with the A6. Get the Progen6. Direct replacement. takes less power to turn and the seals wont leak.
something to contemplate .... but in the last 6 months I have been lucky in piecing together separate buys (cheaply) on eBay for all the tools needed for clutch and seal removal/install,gauges and vacuum pump and it's been a 15 year restoration for me where I want to say "I did it " ..or did most of it --motor, trans ,rear end by others---
Briz ...whats your opinion on a POA valve that has been sitting open for 15 years ? a/c worked perfect before taking all apart.
I'd have loaned you all the stuff you needed. As far as the POA if it was stored inside and dry, try it. make sure its clean. If it was in a humid or wet location trash it.
I’ve doing it this way for 35 years - R12, R134A, R134a hybrid and R1234yf, even on my own cars. No, it’s not “text-book”, but if you’re smart about it (make sure water isn’t in your air hose, use a dryer, and use a strong vacuum pump to boil any moisture out), you will be good to go. Never had an issue, but I like to use full “line pressure”, not regulated down to 100 psi. Soapy water works well. I’ve been burned by the vacuum decay method. The system works under pressure, not vacuum, so you might miss a leak (I have).
yes have filters/dryer on air hose ....whats the safest highest pressure to pump in there? ..and all pumped in the low side ,high side or both ?
Full line pressure is typically 140-160 psi. It doesnt matter which side you pressurize, as the other side will presssurize along with it. It’s easier to watch your low pressure gauge for movement, so start pressuring (either or both) until the low side reaches 120 psi, close the valves note the exact starting point, and start listening and soaping everything up while keeping an eye on the gauge.
