Hey, not sure of the proper name for this, but it is the vent located in the passenger kick panel which leads up to the blower motor. I’m getting ready to reinstall and noticed the gasket is a bit ratty. Does anyone carry these gaskets? Or is there a recommended sealing compound to use. What to use to seal at the kick panel? What to use to seal on the back side of the cowl? Also, same question applies to the metal block off plate on the driver side kick panel. Any aftermarket gaskets? Or what to seal it with? Guess, one more question, how do you know if the vacuum actuator is still good? Thanks again for the all the help !!!
The plastic vacuum diaphragm will often be cracked around the edge close to where it is crimped on by the metal bottom side. This will cause the air to only come out of the bottom "heater" area, and not up to the vents or defroster. You will hear the vacuum leak, and can even see the cracks if you look closely. I remove it from the car and use JB Weld all the way around the diaphragm and it works like new.
I looked forever for a replacement seal. Ended up making them out of butyl tape. (resto guys' best friend ). Usually I just suck on the hose to the diaphragm and see if it opens (if you don't mind eating old dirt and spiders).
They do make gaskets for AC and non AC heater boxes https://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-1972-...pEAAOSwAP9cNS21:sc:USPSFirstClass!11782!US!-1
I used this one: RestoParts Heater Box Seal Kit w/ A/C 1964-1967 GTO Lemans 442 Chevelle Skylark Search for it on Ebay as well.
Never had a problem getting the heater/AC box gaskets, but never could find the recirculate door assembly or driver-side block-out gaskets that go on the kick panels. Don't know if anyone makes them.
I just ordered some 1/4” thick EPDM rubber sheets. Gonna try to cut my own gaskets, at least for the vent side. We’ll see how it goes. Last resort for the Driver side plate could probably just use RTV.
Put an ad in here. Get used ones from a northern car. I have never seen a bad one on a New England car.,
Lol, that was before everything was blasted and painted. Im not actually in Utah, but As far as I know the car was in Utah from 1978 to 2001 when I got it. Now that im restoring it, I’ve cleaned up and painted the vent assembly. It’s just the gasket is crap. Don’t want to put that on the nice shiny paint.
Just make sure you get all the crap out of the bottom of crowl and flush water through it so that it flows good. There are drain holes at the very bottom (and along the rocker panels where the water is supposed to flow) that clog with dirt and debris very easily. When the holes plug, the whole cowl fills with water, then it works its way through your nice new gasket and floods your floor. Any old car has 5 inches or more of packed mud down there. When you have the recirculate door off, it is easy to reach down and dig that goo out or shine a flash light and a mirror to make sure it is clean.
The rubber sheets are in, one gasket cut. Had to grind off some surface rust and paint before installing. Also, had do you move this thread over to he big chill section. Didn’t know that was there.
One of the staff knows how to move it, but not me. Unfortunately, the big chill section is usually a lot of crickets.
That gray putty goop can be purchased from an HVAC supplier. It comes in a block. Peel off what you need. It never really hardens. The one I bought said not for automotive use? Pretty funny. I bet none of them realized it was used in cars 50 years ago. It was used on convertibles also under the big stainless pieces next to windshield to cushion it and keeping it from denting in.
Yeah, butyl tape. Use if for sealing lots of stuff during restoration. Roll it into a ball to seal holes, use it under carpet to hold wires in place, etc. Endless things you can use it for. Only thing is that it doesn't like gasoline (dissolves it). I've pulled out some windshields that were put in with butyl seals, since folks use to use it for that sometimes.