The engine harness in my new 71 GS 350 is routed through the perch on the frame to the starter. Why? I have no idea but I know its not supposed to be like that. The assembly manual shows the routing above the engine mount and shows some sort of a clip securing it to the mount. Anyone have a good pic of the harness and this mystery clip? This is right as it passes the right side motor mount. I cant tell you how many Skylarks Ive killed but I cant for the life of me remember how the harness gets routed on a small block
Im on the fence about it. It's so original. And the floors are mint. I'm gonna feel bad hacking a hole in the tunnel. But im going to say it'll probably be worth more as a 4 speed conversion than an original column shift auto. The engine and trans are coming out as soon as I get it back from the top place. Engibe is coming out for a timing chain, engine compartment detailing and fresh buick red. Im gonna pop a pilot bushing in the end of the crank just for the hell of it and put the auto back in for now
I can't say I haven't considered the 4-sp. conversion w/mine & it's getting new floors but I'm much more inclined to go with a 200-4R and 4.33 or 4.56 rear and a nice 350 build which is all easily undone.
The car is coming along really good. I got the kick panels re dyed and the sport steering wheel is on. Crossed a bunch of little fixes and repairs off the list. I detailed the hell out of it too. I dumped 2 buckets of black water out from cleaning the interior Next up is the am/fm conversion. Man, someone is gonna get one nice car come August/ September
Interesting..I think I have a couple of those in stock too. That's this weekends project. It's annoying the crap out of me!
I got fed up with with all the heat, motion, dirt and moisture affecting the wiring down to the starter. My 62 Olds had no such problems because the body wiring went to a big battery terminal on the fender, only 2 very heavy wires continuing down to operate the starter. It was also far easier to service the starter, just unbolt the 2 wires on the fender and drop the starter with those wires STILL ATTACHED. I believe we can thank bean counters for eliminating the upper terminal and dragging all those other wire (with their fusible links) down to the main starter terminal. After struggling with these problems a while, I decided to go for the reliability and convenience of the fender battery terminal. Here is a picture of the conversion on my 77 Olds, just cut the starter cable at a convenient point and rewire. The body wires are pulled out of the muck and stress at the bottom of the car, note fusible links making connection. The inner fenders are plastic, so that terminal is just a bolt through with a couple big washers. Changing a starter is so much easier when it does not involve wiring while balancing a heavy starter on one hand. Bruce Roe