Talking with an engine builder, he always throws out the rubber front and rear intake gaskets, and instead uses large bead of the Gray Permatex gasket maker....any thoughts or advise?
This is done often when block or heads have been milled. If he’s gonna stand behind the work it should be fine. I have done it myself.
Lol...I'm doing the rebuild...theres no milling involved. Just was instructed the rubber end gaskets were junk
I think the conventional wisdom is to use the end seals if the geometry hasn't changed. Then just a dap of sealant at the edges.
I use the end seals. I install them with “the right stuff” of both sides. Torque it to just 10 foot pounds and let it cure overnight before I fully tighten the bolts. The biggest issue is people fully tightening the bolts before the sealant is cured, the seals will spit out.
Forgot to ask.....should I be using a certain kind of thread sealant on the intake bolts? What about head bolts? Thanks
No sealer on threads of bolts, some go into blind holes and will hydolock maybe the 2 very center but I never do.
I have taken to shaving the ridge on the end seals off with a sharp knife. I find it virtually eliminates any chance of squeezing out or sucking in. I also use that indian head gasket glue stuff. put it on, let it get sticky, dab some rtv in the corners under the heads, slip the things on, rtv on top of the seals under the heads, goop some glue on, let it get sticky, then set the intake on. do a few rounds of tightening the bolts hand tight and let it sit for a bit. then torque. retorque after running for the first time.
Ok guys, about ready to button this motor job up.....I'm attaching a pic of the aluminum intake, which I've never heard of. My old book says intake torq specs are 45 ft lbs. I assume that would be for factory cast iron? Should I still go 45 ft lbs on this aluminum "weirdo intake"?
The heads are off my '72 GS. I have to replace the whole valve train. Valve guides are too worn & the valves have been ground too many times prior to me purchasing the car. Anyhow, I used the rubber intake seals the and sealant on both ends, 3 years ago. The front intake seal leaked so bad that I remove the intake & heads. When i install the rebuild heads & the intake manifold, I will be using the "Right Stuff" as sealant.
Koosh - I checked online with T/A Performance as per the intake bolt torque. Their spec for aluminum intake is 45 lbs-ft.
