So I've been trying to figure out how to replace my trunk lock cylinder since I got the car so I don't have to fire it up just to operate the vacuum release button every time I need in the trunk. Looked in, around, and all over all the access holes in the trunk lid. I can see the threaded part of the screws that hold the lock cylinder in place, but couldn't figure out how to get to the screw heads. Then I found this picture of a factory stock '60....guess I'll be making a cable release for the latch this winter.
Maybe you could put a hand operated vacuum pump/bleeder inline with the existing trunk release? Someone certainly made a sweet looking custom trunk lid. I am supposing that wasn't you?
No was done before I got the car, never paid attention to a stock one and how one's trunk is before I bought this car. Yes, it's very sweet and the body lines are also peaked and extended, quarters also welded in one section (look at the red car's quarters, they also have a separate section). I could put a vacuum pump or reservoir on it, but I don't trust vacuum as my only way to get in. I like having a mechanical backup so I'll be doing something along the lines of a cable.
Install a pull cable & handle behind the fuel fill cover OR below/just above the rear bumper??? Tom T.
Spitballing here but couldn’t the right electrician tie into the vacuum release latch system with a remote activated electric 12 volt motor release?
Again spitballing but seems there should be some form of magnetic activated release latch that could be modified for this app? Then have a Teflon coated rare earth magnet activator on your key fob. Doubt many people will be around that beauty with a magnet so lil extra layer of protection if possible to create.
The striker is in the trunk, and the latch is in the trunk lid, so it's not going to be that simple (wish it was). I'll be routing a cable from the latch toward the front of the lid, then through the hinges, and either into the interior or out hidden by the fender skirt is the tentative plan right now. I haven't really even looked at it since this whole revelation about the lock cylinder came into my head, but it's supposed to be 70 degrees here tomorrow and Sunday, so I'll be out in the shop doing things and driving the cars throughout the weekend, so I'll get it mapped out and start sourcing parts. My old man's '67 Chevelle showcar had a shaved trunk with a lever release under the dash when I was a kid, which worked beautifully and was cool, so I'll be doing something similar. Either of those could work, and the magnet would be sweet, but I'm going to keep it simple and mechanical. I'm an analog guy and like the foolproofness of a cable operated system.
I looked for my trunk keys for weeks on the “X”. I finally gave up and drilled the lock, an hour later I was walking by our daughters room and saw her keys with “some other’s “. Yep, while working on her car and mine I combined the chains siiiiiigh. Anyhow glad you found yours Lucas,that is one beautiful ride!
Oh, I put the new "billet" coolant overflow bottle in. Used some nice machined spacers and allen heads I had leftover from a disc brake kit install. One winter project is going to be to make some nicer radiator mount brackets.
Hey Lucas I just stumbled across this thread, (actually this entire section of the board) for the first time and I got to say nice progress on the Caddy bro!
Hey, thank you sir. It's been a lot of little things here and there, always helps to start with a "good" car. I keep finding things I need/want to do, I'm going to redo the trunk in matching leather and carpet to the interior eventually, like I did with my Riviera. I've got a few better chrome bits to put on than what is on it now.... And the stereo being "alright" is getting old, so something needs to happen there
Keep updating this post with your "personal touches" to the Caddy. That thing needs some subs in that big booty Judy trunk lol
Yeah they're huge and there's a lot of separate sections (6 chrome main on the front, and 8 main on the rear, not including anything for the lights ). Truth be told some of the sections that came on the car weren't the greatest, but some are really nice. So been working on rounding up nice used sections for the not so great parts, because a rechromed bumper is 3k for a nicely done one, and the car gets driven too much to spend that for new or rechrome them. Blown only about $1200 so far. Even though some of the stuff that has shown up has definitely highlighted the difference between "near mint" to some sellers and myself, I'll be able to flip most the unusable and take offs real quick because they'll be good enough to someone. Or I'll make some more garage art....rear and driver's front are polished and ready to be installed after some painting on the backsides, center and passenger side happening next. Might not end up using either of those so possibly about to completely waste a few hours hahahaha... that's a size 11 shoe for reference. .
Man that's a big azz bumper! Everything about those cars is big. You got your work cut out for ya Lucas lol. 3k for rechroming that behemoth isn't that bad. Up here I was quoted 5K CDN for just the rear bumper, gas lid and tail light bezels for my Riv
Lucas, did you notice.. Your working from a chair or recliner to what looks like some akward body positions while polishing and there is commercial on your TV for a chair for body, spine and head comfort
...My couch is pretty comfortable . I did actually check out what was on TV before posting the pics, you never know what you're opening yourself up to on this board, but you can see my big cock in the one pic
