I will practice my welding on sheet metal, it would be nice to replace those rusty areas with hand shaped steel.
Hi Sean, I'm thinking of seeing if there's a course on welding sheet metal, there has to be something like that at NAIT or something; - I do own a little wire feed welder, but just never learned to use it properly. Might look at picking up a proper MIG set up; - I have a funny feeling in order to get this thing through an "Out of Province" I'm going to have to seal it up with steel.
I know a guy for inspections lol. He passed my tubbed out 20” slick twin turbo monster with no heater. Its mostly practice, and the theory can be read for free. It doesn’t take much of a welder to tack the panels in. At that point I have a pro welder neighbor who could lay a perfect bead to finish it. Mark Burton did welded in quarters on my other car and man oh man it’s perfect.
Sean, we're going to have to have coffee again. I know it's mostly practice, but every time I did it looked like chickens--t and I don't know what I did wrong. so I figured I'm just going to have to take a class, learn and apply some theory, and buy some sheet metal and then practice. Right now I don't even know the right setting so as not to burn through, and that's with a lousy little wire feeder. One guy told me it's too much for thin sheet metal. Of course I have no idea. I used to know people who did great work with oxy-acetylene, but they've all retired or dead. I wish I could weld like the one guy at the Reynolds museum, he uses a small torch and literally buts the pieces together, when he's done you don't even see a seam, he doesn't use a rod, he fuses it all together. I'd just be happy with something that looks presentable and won't fall off. Most of what I'm doing will be hidden by the trim line anyway.
I didn't want to go off track on the 'Show those Nailhead engine bays" thread. In the very short time you drove you drove this car did you maby notice anymore power from the 425 than your 401 in your Electra? I understand the weight differences but maby a feel. Back in the mid 80's I was changing a water pump on my 66 GS and broke a bolt in the timing cover. So while I had the cover off I changed the timing gears and chain to a steel set. The car had hit a bit over 100,000 miles but the original nylon teeth were fine. Yup it was years ago but wondering if the engine oil helps keep the nylon teeth from getting brittle over time?
There is a bit of difference, the 425 is slightly snappier, but I have to do some more work before I know for sure. I have to get the transmission checked over and make sure that the spaghetti driveshaft and the rear axle are up to some abuse. I'm pretty convinced that the driveshaft with its multiple u-joints, poor steady bearing and primitive CV joint designs were the Achilles' Heel of these cars; - they fail badly and they are a fortune to fix up. I think it's the heat and the lack of regular oil changes that causes the neoprene gears to fail. My last Wildcat was a 67 with a stock 430 in it and it still had the stock gears, but it was at 135,000 and I was getting scared of it. I knew that the car had spent more of its life just sitting around doing nothing. This 66 Wildcat is similar; - it was last registered to drive in 1985. With 71,000 on the clock (and the lack of wear seems to justify that hypothesis) it also seems to have spent more time sitting around. The guy I bought this car off of was only the second owner who bought it off the original family back in the early 2000s, and the family explained that the car was originally bought as the last farm family vehicle as a retirement thing. The old guy drove it sporadically and never washed it, and then after he passed it was out standing in it's field. So it'll be interesting to see if this thing lasts once I start driving it around. I'm going to be buying a water pump and and an alternator (and regulator) pretty much as I get it ready and just have them on standby. If I'm smart, once the water pump lets go, I should do the timing chain and gears. And yes, I fully expect to snap off some bolts. Galvanic corrosion is standard on that set up and there hasn't been one Nailhead I've done where at least 3 waterpump bolts haven't snapped. Luckily, I have a spare cover that's already cleaned up in my spare parts bin somewhere.
Nice to know about the 425. I can't wait till you get it safely road worthy. Weren't the 2 piece driveshafts used for better leg room or more for smoothness? My Pops new 66 Wildcat sedan had that joint changed at 30,000 miles. The mechanic was very familiar with them as i'm sure all good mechanics at that time were. He did call them the stupidest setup that he worked on. I don't remember it being that expensive, but it was back in 1970 and the joints had to be plentiful then. Just to mention I started driving the Wildcat in 1979 and it had only 49,000 miles but it was a water leaker from the front and back windows after 1 or 2 years from new and looked like it had a million miles. I beat on this car just like a stupid 16 or 17 year old kid I was and the drive line never gave out, probably some luck involved and not having a posi helped?? My water pump change on my 66GS all started by my stupidity too. I bought a 66 425 that came out of a Riv and I decided to swap out my fixed 4 blade fan on my GS for the clutch AC fan from the 425. From the junkyard guys taking out the motor to me bringing it home in the trunk of GS, "I took the trunk lid off" and hoisting it out with 4 friends and putting it on the ground, that fan ended up having a few bent blades. I remember kinda trying to straighten them by eye. Anyways after the swap I don't think it lasted 10 days before the water pump bearing gave out. Yup as it always is it was the last water pump bolt that the head snapped off, I remember that vividly even 35 years later..Probably lucked out that it was only one bolt because the GS was only 16 years old at the time. I was lucky that I had 3 Nailhead motors in my basement that I bought over the years and found a good cover. Seeing these motors never really go to 5,000 you just might be alright for a while with the plastic teeth. I have a good feeling you don't beat on your Electra cruiser but would like to see what the Wildcat feels like. Do you have spare joints for the drive shafts?
I don't have any u-joints left, I had the shaft rebuilt in the Electra, and once it was done the car felt as smooth as silk. The mechanic who did it modified the CV joint ball and socket set with a CV joint set out of a 2002 Hynundai, apparently the sizing is just about perfect and it's available off the shelf whereas you can't get the ball and socket stuff anymore. You can get the bearings, but once the ball starts to go out of round the bearings fail repeatedly and quickly. The one in the Electra was in bad shape; - I had just driven it 1000 miles from Seattle and the howls were getting louder with every mile. By the time I got home it sounded like a 3 ton delivery truck. The posi rear axle was toast too; - the vibrations had torn out the pinion sleeve and set up the bearings for a failure. It was hamburger heaven in there and yet it got me home at 70 mph. That little repair cost me two grand; - but the ensuing smoothness was worth it. The car feels new again. (I don't do rear axles, the smell of the oil makes me physically sick on contact, a legacy of being doused in it when I was younger) I haven't had this Wildcat north of 50 yet; - the brakes and tires are 40 years old. I guess I'm getting careful with old age. I was fully expecting them to leave in that short 6 mile jaunt from where I bought the car to home. And I can agree with your assumption that the car is a leaker, both my front and rear windows aren't worth a damn. The package tray is shot as a result, and the seam in the dash is probably a Swiss cheese. I'm worried about what little I'm going to find there when I go to replace a windshield. If it's any consolation, the Electra windshield is the original and it leaks too. Oh yeah, I do beat on the poor Electra. Every year it goes to the coast, (about 700 miles) it gets driven hard; - there are sections of highway where if you're doing 70 you're in the way. I also like to drive too fast for my own good; - have been lucky with the speeding tickets (almost got the car towed away on one trip, but the cop liked the car and cut me a break, I actually thanked him). So...there's a good likelihood that the poor Wildcat will be driven...fast. I'm not into quarter mile drag racing, I've always been into top speeds. One of my favorite Wildcats was a 69 with a 2.45 axle; - yes, 2.45, it was the only year they were ever offered. I put a Stage 1 455 in that car and not only did it pull like an ox on fire it was blisteringly fast, it had a calculated top speed of 145 mph at 4200 rpm. I managed to scare the s--t out of myself with that one, and have been content to keeping things on the short side of 100 ever since, but only just. There's no replacement for Buick displacement...
I wouldn't never have thought a bad CV joint would cause a chain reaction and destroy the rear end, wow. Curious if you knew about these problems before or were caught off guard. The Holy Grail of questions here, did your Electra come with a posi? and what gears. Your out in Canada so maby its a popular option. You have shared this Hyundai CV joint fit? It might not be for all to modify but with no replacements to be found it's great. Jim Shields who is a member and has around 20 66 Skylark GS's now had told me about a car about about 35 years ago he was looking for, a so called GM upper manager had a special order 66 Skylark GS with non production colors and bench seat 4 speed and was said to have a 425 and really really low 2 series rear gears. He wanted it for cross country cruising I was told. Jim ended up finding that car 25 years later, it had a 401 though not the 425 but had a 2:46 posi. Thats the lowest I have heard. Your 69 Wildcat had to be such a nice cruiser. Did it at least have disc brakes? Oh boy have we all don't some stupid stuff that when I think about some times I get severe cringes. 145 mph is Nascar speed! I bet slowing down from 145 that when you hit even 100 you felt much better. I hit 5400 rpms on a highway with 3:23's in my GS "yes 3:23's as the rear came from a 66 GTO" Short story, the original owner was a painter I think and he loaded that trunk with heavy supply's which made the driver side axle shot. It was easier to swap rears plus I went up from a 2:93 posi to the 3 series posi. I calculated it at 130+ mph. Oh it had retread tires on all 4 wheels I'm glad you get to enjoy and open up your Electra. There is good beating and bad beating on a car I always loved your avatar by the way I use to say that phrase that my Fathers car was built on a Friday or Monday. The motor always ran super but that leaking was bad and annoying, it always hit you at a annoying part of your body like water torture. It didn't have tinted windows and the dash cracked a bit at one spot and the cloth seats dried out to the stuffing on top. I believe they were just to long and heavy and maby flexed to much while driving. The Wildcat was a post sedan and it didn't help. Then you had those old school tow trucks that lifted them by the bumpers and even bent the bumpers. That would cause some body stress and flex. My 66 GS didn't leak at all and I was told it had some kinda rare heavy heavy tinted glass from the factory. You couldn't see the tint lines up on top of the windshield as it was all tinted. All black interior and no dash or seat cracks. Even the back package tray wasn't warped from the sun. I'm mentioning this only because of my belief of the longer C bodys flex. Your Electra most likely got the top notch assembly line work and you still said it leaked. I wish I could say the frame on my GS survived the winter salts. Did you work in the oil field or had sometype of accident? or to personal.. and yes the only Buicks back in the day I drove were the Biggy Blocks..
Nope, never worked oilfield or had an accident, but when I was 16 my first job was in a local garage and I was changing diffs and diff fluids and swapping engines on Mopars. learned a lot about mechanics and how not to build a car in those summers. It's why I'll likely never own one, and have never owned a Mopar, I absolutely hate them. Over the course of 2 summers I changed out so many diff sets and swapped so many burned out or screwed up 318s, 360s, and 440s I swore I'd never own a Chrysler product as long as I lived. I've held to that. The old fashioned air driven oil filler hose setup leaked, and it soaked my coveralls to the skin. Being young and stupid, I didn't think much about it until I cleaned up and couldn't get rid of that stink. 3 hot showers and a bottle of cheap aftershave didn't touch that smell, and that night I almost cut my arm off to avoid it. Ended up throwing up halfway through the night the smell in my room from that diff fluid was so bad. It lasted 2 days before it was tolerable, but ever since then I can't look at that crap without gagging. The Electra was built in Fairfax Kansas, and was a special order car. It was equipped for Canadian export, which meant it had a block heater in it. The car originally belonged to a GM dealer in Lethbridge Alberta, he used it as a summer car on Vancouver Island. He got drunk one night and lost his license, the car sat for a winter and then froze the block. He sold it and a guy here in Alberta who bought it with the intention of flipping it. The second owner did the bodywork, (poorly, very amateur paint) patched up the interior, and defconned the block. I found that out some years later when I yanked it out to do a rebuild. Imagine the shock and the realization when it dawned on me that I now needed a 401 block. Managed to get one locally, rebuilt it to stock specs, and right now it has 20,000 miles on it since the rebuild. Did the tranny then too, so after the axle was finally finished, the whole drive line had been rebuilt. The car is a great runner and it's finally reliable, I hope. Out of all the Buicks I've ever owned, it's been on the back of a tow truck the most, and it's given me some pretty hair-raising experiences with stuff coming apart. The avatar comes from that trip to Seattle, it's a Lockheed Constellation L-1049 Super G painted up in Trans- Canada Airways colours that's sitting in front of the Boeing museum. It's my most favorite airplane in the whole world and I'd almost consider selling my soul for a chance to fly one. If I was a few years older I would have had the chance to ride in one, as it was they'd been replaced by DC-8s by the time we took that first trip back to the old country. Oh well... The Electra was pretty sloppily built. It was an assembly line car and has all the right issues. Fit and finish is mediocre at best, that was when GM had begun it's slide into building mass-produced crap. Both my 67 Wildcat convertible and the Electra were built at Fairfax, maybe they were having quality issues there, I don't know. So it's still a work in progress. I'll never own another convertible though, I really want a car with a roof. They're a hell of a lot quieter on the highway. At any speeds over 70 that Electra roof howls like a Banshee, and yes, it's fairly new and was correctly installed. My 67 Wildcat was exactly the same way too. You have to wear ear plugs. So the Wildcat with a solid roof and insulation is an exciting prospect. I'll put an after-market vintage-looking A/C unit in it since it gets hot on the coast and that car is black. The Electra has never seen an Alberta winter; - you'd freeze to death in it. It has a great heater, but I only ever drove a vintage Buick convertible once in winter, it was about -5 F and while the heater blew hot air, it was cold just behind the front seat and every window fogged shut with sheet ice. So that accounts for the car's survival. The Wildcat obviously saw some Saskatchewan winters, they're brutally cold and long, and it spent most of it's life on gravel. So what ever mud and crud that packed into the front and rear fender areas was allowed to set up and rust out. The floors and the frame seemed to drain better, they're virtually virginal. I never did share that part about the Hyundai CV joint as a replacement because at first it was a bit embarrassing, and second, I didn't know if it could take the torque. So far it's stood up without any issues. I'll have to check out the Wildcat driveshaft before I inadvertently destroy it, so another reason to take my time with the build and do it right. This car looks like it has the stock 3.07 standard axle, which is too bad. I might source a 3.42, but it would only likely get me into trouble with the local constabulary because the car would be so fun to drive. There's an awful lot of flex in those convertibles, even though they have a strengthened frame. An old guy who worked at GM back in the day said they would recommend that the top catches be flipped to open and the top just popped before the car went up on a regular 4 point frame hoist.
I always heard Mopars drive trains were bullet proof but the unibodys were awful. I guess I was wrong.. Mark from Graveyard Carz has said the bodys were a night mare the way they were made and to repair the way the factory made them with panels attached everywhere and other panels to support the ones before them. I had some fun times with my Cousins Superbird and another Cousin's Superbee. I was young though and didn't know much at the time. I will tell at some point to just how my cousins butchered them after a while. Oh yes a smell can trigger a gag reflex from something even 50 years ago. I have worked at few screw machine shops and made some tooling for punch presses. Some shops I would swap out the oil in a machine for different materials being cut. One nasty shop was a wood building built in the early 1900's I think. They got most of the machinery from the Government for free to make war parts for WW1 and WW2. It was 2 blocks long and got so fricken hot in the summer and they only shut down if someone passed out. It was normal to see a thermometer above a machine at 115 to 120 deg. They also had these huge multi spindle screw machines that made it so loud also when hex stock was being machined. They used only one oil which was sulfur. If you left a clean coffee mug out overnight it would have a oil film the next day. The building's wood was saturated and the condo behind the building that were pretty new had water issues from oil in the soil. This place was so cheap they only gave you 3 shop rags a day. People would smell you if you went into a store and I had to buy colored underwear as the tidy whiteys would turn brown, this was with even wearing the work uniforms. Tell me i'm not the stupidest person telling you this I would get soaked with this nasty oil on the back of my right thigh once in a while. Never knew how for a couple months. They use to have 5 gallon buckets with oil at certain places and the machines belly's had alot of cutting oil. Finally came to me that when I squatted down for a certain reason the rag in my back pocket would dip into the machine or bucket. I'm not sure if it was you who collects old watches, I might of made the mistake before thinking it was you? I worked at old well known watch factory that re opened very part way, thats the reason i'm asking. So about the block heater, are they engine oil heaters? I guess I can google but maby there are big differences. The heat in my GS was awesome, it could of heated a whole house. These Nailhead blocks are like a furnace. I know it's all about the engines temperature but the thick heavy blocks seem to have heat in reserve. Ok not Alberta cold in MA but still. Wondering why Buick didn't make a tunnel type heating tube for the rear seat passengers for Canadian exports. I have that Buick book that shows old road tests and theres a pic of a 64 Wildcat convertible at high speed and it looks like a Igloo! I also think 1964 was the last year of good QC? I remember the 66 Wildcat having decent quality materials and couldn't complain about my 66 GS, "the only issue was the GS emblem on the dash was crooked" I had built up a decent collection of rare Nailhead parts and 3 motors. I had a friend who worked at a speed shop and I would get great deals on TRW parts. I had everything for a rebuild on a 425 but the frame rotted out to bad and I ditched the rebuild. Looking at this forum I was going in blind and i'm sure I would of butchered the rebuild. This was 1983's and no internet lol. Just like I destroyed my driveway working on cars with friends where my Father wanted to kill me, I carried all the motors and parts down the bulkhead into the basement to where I stained the floor too. I don't know planes though, maby because I was born and raised in a city? Not much of a excuse but i'm going to look that plane up.
Wow, that's quite the story! But yes, I know sulphur well; - I've been handling bulk pure sulphur for close to 40 years now. It's part of the process at the plant I work at. We grind it into a fine powder and blend it with water to form a slurry that's pumped to a circuit to remove copper. We have other things that will turn underwear brown, like high pressure and hydrogen. And speaking of bad smells, I've spent my working life running away from ammonia clouds. Yes, I'm the watch guy. Currently fixing a heirloom but cheap Waltham 16 size 7 jewel movement for a client. He likes this watch, I don't know why, but he's paying me money to clean and service it, so I shall. And he'll get a good job done. I agree, the 64 model year was one of the last high quality ones. Not to say the 66 is lousy, but it isn't put together with the same care as the older ones, and the materials and the looks were beginning to evolve away from chrome and brushed or turned metal to more plastics and fake wood. Surprisingly, the Electra dash still has a real wood veneer on it. It certainly looks a lot better than the max-tac they used on the 68 through 70 dashes. I used to have a good collection of parts, then we moved, I sold off all my Buicks and went exclusively to Mercedes, so all the parts went. Kicking myself over that one. Gave up on Mercedes, they're 3 times more expensive to run than a Buick and in this climate almost impossible to keep rust free. All of mine dissolved into clouds of rust and had to be scrapped. A block heater is a small electrical element that fits in place of a frost plug. It works exactly like a kettle, in fact it's probably the same type of element that drives an electric kettle. When plugged in at temperatures colder than 0 F, it will heat the area and the water jackets enough so that the oil isn't too buttery and will allow the car to crank over. The amount of drag a dead cold engine can generate is enough to kill a fully charged battery within a few minutes at -40. Instead of spinning over rapidly enough to fire multiple cylinders at once it kind of goes "ruh,... ruh,... ruh,... click-click-click!" And then you're done. A better heater is the oil pan pad type, this sits on the bottom of the pan and will keep the oil warm to the touch, the engine spins over like it's summer. Big block Buicks were notorious for being able to start in that weather unplugged; - but, it usually would be terminal for them. Once the engine fires, the very cold pump goes from 2 RPM to over 1000 instantaneously and tries to pull butter out of the oil pan, the resulting friction then causes the gears to expand faster than the casing and it then tears the clearances out of the oil pump. So the engine from that point on develops less oil pressure, and eventually in summer heat, the oil light starts to flicker at idle at an intersection. Worse yet it over heats, something big block Buicks were famous for. Every climate has its faults...
Id suggest buying good welder if moneys not object. Modern welders with pre-sets, where you just input the material, and thickness, and maybe shielding gas used, are unbeliavable. That way you can focus on learning the welding technic, and not split you attention to try and hunt for good settings, especially if you dont even know what they would be. When i bought my Kemppi EVO200 ( they dont praise it for nothing), i was truly amazed. Set the thickness, do test weld. Not burned through, turn it over, and you see the backside is fused to upper sheet perfectly. And forget about innercore wires, use shielding gas. While some say its expensive, i blow through ~$100 worth of gas per year, so not much.
Good it was you into watches when a while back I mentioned I worked at the old Waltham watch company when maby 10% in the corner of the building was re opened to the Waltham technology's. I had told you about how they kept a display cases with different watches and gauges from over the years. This was up in the offices and QC department. That area was kept well over the years. Then the mile of deserted basement with a grave yard of old little machinery. You taught me more about their products over a post than the almost 2 years I worked there One company I worked for we machined alot of high end plastics. It was a bit tricky to machine it as it would expand or shrink after machining it so you had to wait hours and then measure a lot of 10 pieces or so and go from there to what the initial sizes should be and hope the pieces fall into spec after cooling. Your a wealth of info on this cold weather stuff and loving it! How you do the cold I don't know. Speaking of Mercedes I knew a kid who had a 4 dr 450 or something series. This was just about the rustiest car I have ever seen, it was normal rust on the bottom but weird rust also, I mean the weirdest I have seen. The trunk lock area was all gone and spread out over the size of a volley ball and you could see all the guts, same with all 4 doors, the front door area and handles front and rear. Like it was swiss cheese. The front pull to open the hood was snapped, the seats didn't move anymore and there was tape and small door stops keeping the windows from falling. Just about 95% of the cars options didn't work. German engineering is nice but to rot out like that is in excusable. Like a fine "watch" you have to maintain them It had to be coast kept car in it prime? I always loved the dash on the 66 Wildcat and sweet they still used veneer on your Electra. The 65 dash was very knobby and busy but it looked nicely crafted. I'm sure they saved a fortune in chroming and parts when they changed it in 66. Just those years you could take a door panel off and on 100 times with the metal flang screws and stitched cloth. Those later year plastic snaps were ridiculous. I remember playing with a kid who just wasn't into working on cars by asking him how do I take the off the fake wood panel on my 84 4 dr G body Bonneville. He pointed to the fake hex key screws and said those have to come out I think. I then just pried the panel off by hand and he was shocked to just how cheap it was.. Had to be there I guess.. So you work with the sulphur to scrap copper?
I've learned a bit more about Walthams since then too. I have quite a number of them. I got this one back together for my client, - so he should be happy. I used to drive a couple of 1958 Mercedes, and I had what should have been a lovely 1961 220 SEb had it not been so damn rusty. It looked great, the body showed no rust, nothing. But it was rotten from the bottom of the doors down and from the inside out. There was no way to put it up on a hoist, I couldn't get the rear axle fixed until I rebuilt the bottom of the car first. Life lesson #1, - avoid unibody cars. Life Lesson #2, avoid cheap and pretty unibody cars. Life Lesson #3, if it looks too good to be true, it is. That car had it all going for it. I'd never even look at a Mercedes newer than 1970, they're getting too complex by that point in time. Resale values certainly reflect that. An abused Mercedes is worth less than a Yugo, and slightly more than salvage for parts. As for German engineering, - there's a reason they lost the Second World War. It's all very finicky crap that's far too over-engineered. I do prefer the 66 Buick over the 65; - and in 67 they kept the same dash and actually softened it up a bit for the Wildcat. They used brushed aluminum in place of the corrugated section. But all the components interchange completely between 66 and 67. So that's nice, I have a couple of FM radios, clocks and map light sets. We use sulphur to separate copper from nickel in a nickel sulphate solution. It's actually pumped into a distillation column along with sulphur dioxide, heated up to 240 F, and then it just kind of "cracks" off and precipitates out. So we use a lot of block sulphur. We grind that in a huge ball mill that's rubber lined and filled with 5 pound steel balls. Add water, and "bob's your uncle", you have a stinking grey sulphur slurry. I started working at that plant as an operator trainee, basically an over-glorified labourer. Now I help run the place.
Yeah, old Mercedeses are total rust-buckets. There would be few quite nice models, especially SEL's, but just.. no.. They finally got their game together at w211 E-class, but the previous w210 was horrendous rust-bucket even when new. Father has had new E-classes since i cant remember when. Mercedes is best money can buy for him. Father told a story from decades back, when he was repairing cars. One guy there had welded old W115 for weeks to old grandpa to get it inspected, and he was totally fed up with that. When got that completed, he went on to see whats next.. Welding another W115 MB True story or not, when he took the keys he said " im not going to weld another fucking Mercedes", and when taking it from lot he speeded up to a tree and totalled it
Was the guy still in the car when he nailed the tree or did he go slow enough but good enough to call it a total? Tag do they use salt on the roads in Finland? MA in States where I live uses a extreme amount of salt, way more than other States I have heard. Marc, those German rifles use to jamb with dust or or tiny pebbles is what I know, German engineering and their tight tolerances. I haven't read much about the tanks?
Do they use salt? Is sky blue? And alot! Here its even required to do preventive salting, like last 2-3 weeks. If it promises snow per sub-zero, they lay salt as pre-emptive move to perfectly dry roads
I'm use to seeing heeps of residue salt on the side of the roads even 6 months after winter. Maby the NY guys can chime in but I have seen cars from their NY that don't rust out as much. They might rattle out because of the awful holes in the streets but not much rust. Does anyone know if they use better street equipment for snow, if even possible?
