Ask about guys with consoles, if we can leave the console in the current spot and also can we avoid cutting the floor opening any, please.
I plan to call them tomorrow (today is holiday of course). Sorry I got busy with other things and decided to wait until this week to get the info. If you don't see a post from me this week with an update, feel free to bump the thread. Thanks!
Update: I called them and the TKX is currently out of stock and plans to be back in stock in mid-February. Their salesmen were all busy so I couldn't ask the console question, so I emailed it to them as follows: When installing a TKX in 1968-72 Buick GS (A-body) cars that have a manual trans console (where the car currently has a Muncie/Hurst combo), will it be necessary to do any modification of the console or driveshaft tunnel? Or can the owner keep it all stock when replacing a Muncie/Hurst with a TKX? As soon as they get back with an answer, I will post it here. Meantime, they are taking pre-orders for the trannies so that when they have some, they can send them out. Oh, by the way, they do say this about console mods on their site: "Tremec TCET18083 TKX 5-speed manual transmission for GM applications. Bolts up to a standard GM Muncie bellhousing or use a Quicktime bellhousing. Input Shaft: 26-Spline (requires 26-spline clutch disk) Output Shaft: 31 Spline Gear Ratios: 1st 3.27, 2nd 1.98, 3rd 1.34, 4th 1.00, 5th .72 The TKX has 600 lb.-ft. of torque capacity and is capable of engines speeds of 8,000 RPMs with shifts at 7,500 RPMs. It is available in multiple gear ratio configurations. Designed for multiple applications with three shifter locations. Compact, end-loaded design provides clearance in most transmission tunnels without floor____" (modifications, I assume)
Excited to hear the info once they get back to you. Was playing with a gear ratio calculator and still can’t decide which gear set I’d want. The 3.27 with .72 or the 2.87 with .81
I was unsure for weeks regarding which overdrive ratio I wanted. I have tentatively decided to go with the .72. It's hard to predict exactly what will be the best compromise, since you have to take into account your differential ratio, tire size, engine upgrades (streetability), plus what kind of driving you will be doing. If it is gonna be pro-touring highway miles, the .68 might be best for mpg and engine longevity if your diffy ratio is compatible with that. My car will be trips into town or to events in my tri-state area, with maybe one cross-country trip to show my car to the guys I used to run with in high school back when my car was new (to me).
I’ve been tossing the same thing through my head. The 3.27 with my 3.73 rear maybe a little too much even with my 27.3” rear tires. The new motor I’m building is close to Mike Jr’s at TA so the 2.87 is definitely a better idea. I think
I’ve been leaning towards the steeper first with .72 OD. With 27” tall tires and 3.55 gears I think it’ll be the best compromise. Calculated 2400rpm at 75mph.
Yes, the speed/rpm calculator is very helpful when deciding what you want or need. Want the engine to be turning 2000 rpm at 100 mph? Then more overdrive is the way to go. But you may not be as quick in the 0-60, if the lower gears aren't the right ratios. Having a 5-speed gives us the best of both worlds, to an extent. When I install mine, I plan to post something about whether I chose the right OD ratio. Hopefully others will post about their experiences too.
I have the TKO500 in my '64 Skylark with a nailhead and 3.55 gearing. The gear ratios are: 3.27 1.98 1.34 1 .68 OD I can let the clutch out in first on level surface and almost get moving without any accelerator pedal. The T-10 had a 2.51 first and driving on wet roads there was always wheel spin, and it required too much slip to get going on inclines and such. The cam has a bit to do with that. I drive on the highway about 80-85 at 2400-2800, which the nailhead is very happy. And it does not mind dropping to 50 and then being able to accelerate in OD, (light acceleration) but I typically will shift into fourth if I want to accelerate moderately. And the mileage is very much improved, especially on the highway. I think a BBB would be about the same as far as "sweet spot" on gearing.
Thanks for sharing your experience with these Tremecs, TrunkMonkey. Now I am re-thinking my decision. Maybe the .68 is the way to go. How much torque is your Nailhead putting out? It doesn't seem like it's stock. The 430 in my GS has high compression, headers, a Holley 850/B4B and a Window Rattler cam, and the car has a 3.42 open rear end. It's able to start out in 1st without much clutch feathering with the Muncie that's currently in it. Does the .68 OD still seem like a better match for that setup, in your opinion?
Since it is a 26 spline, plan on a new clutch and pressure plate for stock pre 71 models. Pre 71s use the course spline input shaft.
The 430 will be happier turning with the .68. I have a 430 in my '68 with Stage 2 heads, 10:1 and TA413 roller/rollers and headers with a ST400 and 3.42, and at the same RPM as my nailhead at highway, it "feels" like it's wound tighter, but the nailhead just sings at 3-3200. (But both at the RPM have me "hunting" for another gear.) Since Buicks are making really good torque near the bottom, a lower OD is no trouble for them (given mid 3.x gearing) so, it might be preference. If you will be cruising highway for any distance, the .68 would be good, if you are making short runs at 70-80, then the .72 will be more "sporty" if/when pulling in OD. I think the 1 thru 3rd ratios are more important for the "spirited" driving, than the OD, overall. All that is according to my butt dyno and history of driving cars and murdersickles.
It got purchased by Silver Sport Transmissions, and they made kits that contained a similar note. I purchased one for the magnum, jury's out if it was the right move or not. Putting the magnum in has been a huge hassle and I haven't finished it yet, but 6 speeds > 5.
Oh, that's right. Thanks for the reminder. I guess I will have to budget some extra dough for those. Dang, I only have 100 miles on the ones in it now!
Thanks, the spirited driving thing is what I want to make sure I'm maximizing. As long as that happens, I will be pretty happy. It's fun when your gearing matches up nicely with the engine's power band. I used to own a Husqvarna CR400 that was tame enough until the RPMs hit a certain sweet spot, and then all of sudden you had to hang on for dear life. Good times....
I ordered my TKX kit from silver sport last week. Taking delivery first week of March. I have a shop doing the conversion from the original 3spd auto. Ordered TMI pro low back buckets from Summit this morning, need to figure out a console... Aside from having one custom built any input/ideas would be appreciated. If anyone has pics of your custom console with a manual, please share. Thanks
If getting it on the road is not a prime factor, wait until you get it and see up close how the shifter can be positioned for handle location, then you will have a good idea on console choices. (rather than spending money and time on something and being underwhelmed)
Since you brought up custom, I’ve been eyeballing OBS Chevy consoles. They’re short so I think they’d clear a shifter and still provide a cup holder and armrest. Been meaning to snag one at a yard. Otherwise there’s a company that builds semi custom ones for around $300 http://www.classictruckconsoles.com/64-72chevelleconsolesbenchbucketoverhead.htm
