Im looking into a WB O2.. Im looking at a these brands not really set on the model numbers.. Any pros & cons? The AM from what I understand wants blood for the replacement sensor. https://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Mot...ords=wideband+o2+sensor&qid=1614975779&sr=8-6 https://www.ebay.com/itm/AEM-X-Seri...43778cdd9519a893d370|ampid:PL_CLK|clp:2334524 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Meter...897941?hash=item46b74ba215:g:FLwAAOSwuMFUbNZd Im also Open to other suggestion... Thank You.
Can't go wrong with the AEM X series Bob.. We used a complete set of these X series gauges in Mike Erickson's Regal when we updated it last year.. along with the AQ-1 datalogger.. Love the stuff. JW
AEM user, I have this one: Check out this page from Summit Racing https://www.summitracing.com/parts/avm-30-0300 JIM
Either way my advice is to remove the sensor when you dont need it and plug the hole as the sensors are typically only good for 50,000 miles with EFI but FAR less with a carb.
Before I made the switch to FI, I had the AEM unit. It was a nice piece and never gave me trouble, plus made dialing in the carb much easier. I personally recommend it. Even after I installed the FI setup, I kept the AEM unit for a while to compare to since I trusted it.
I remove the sensor, plug the bunghole, and pull the fuse when I run a 110 leaded mix . Lead is no good for sensor. I'll tune the carb on pump 93 and get it where I want it, before switching to a 93unleaded/110 leaded mix. Jim
I have the autometer gauge you posted and one of the light up sections for the numbers on the display burned out.
If you do disconnect the sensor with the AEM unit, make sure you pull the fuse. The unit pre-heats the sensor when power is applied. It gets quite hot, don't ask how I know... Jim
Interesting.. GM turned out a bagillion awful carbed cars with O2 sensors that seemingly lasted forever.. these gauges are in all sorts of muscle cars and i've not heard of a single failure.. That gauge is still working pretty good in my car!
Mine works as well. The only time I removed the sensor and plugged the hole was when I was running leaded storage fuel over the winter. This year, I found some ethanol free 91. I have had the sensor for 5 years or so.
The early non heated o2 censors were prone to fouling like the one they used in the GN's Racers soon found that out running leaded race gas. The OEM's soon switched to heated o2 censors, not because of racers it was because the heated sensor forced the computer into closed loop faster being the sensor was able to "work" faster instead of waiting for the exhaust gas to heat it up and function properly. Heated o2 sensors WILL foul with leaded fuel, it just takes longer.
The sensors don’t normally fail outright they just get contaminated and give faulty readings reducing fuel mileage. You normally won’t even get a check engine light on a modern car, not until the sensor is totally fouled up will it trigger the light. The carbon build up contaminates the sensor and throws off its calibration. Any oil burning or rich condition such as a vehicle with a choke will shorten the life span of the sensors. The OBD 1 vehicles tent to require a new sensor every 50,000 miles for optimal fuel mileage, and the more refined OBD2 vehicles can stretch that out to 100,000 or more because they burn so clean. Old muscle cars foul up spark plugs and 02 sensors much faster than an EFI vehicle. You can test the sensor output on the bench to see if it’s still in range, otherwise you really don’t know.
I'm not trying to nit pick, but you must know the computer richens up the mixture up during cold starts and running essentially recreating the action of a choke.. I've replaced dozens CTSs that fouled the plugs out
