Removing??? JUst tap them out...Little pencil size piece of brass or even a screw driver. Put a rag over the cavity mouth so the spring do not fly out everywhere...lol Getting them in is the difficult part. Back yard way is to compress the plates and spring in a vice and wrap it in ceiling banding wire etc. Then cut it as your sliding it back into the cavity of the case Jim JD
Took the case to my friend,a transpro. Explaining how conical washers dislodged etc. I watched him pull the spring loaded plate partially out- like when I pull my bologna sandwich out of baggie. Starting one washer while centering spider with his finger. So quickly I think he might of thrown other side under table. But he also installed pin and bolt. He said the fact washers were held tight indicated the case was still good but disapproved existing ratio+ mentioning a thicker gear to take ratio to 3.23?. If he says it I believe him. He did turbo 350 for my 69, I told him to make it shift so smooth my granny could drive it but he wouldn't do it.
Did you end up with a thrust washer on each side,one under each spider gear,before you installed the shaft? The washers being tight doesn’t dictate if the case is good or worn. The clutches and if there is any play between the gears will help indicate if the clutches need to be shimmed tighter. I don’t run those springs at all. What gear ratio do you have now?
TIP : WHEN EVER YOU REMOVE ANY CROSS SHAFT FROM A LIMITED SLIP unit gear a finger of thick bearing grease and shove it into each hole and push it in behind the spider gear with a pinky in the cross shaft hole 360 degree. That will hold the washer in place till you get the pin back in again .... this happens Soooo often with 12 bolt Chevy and 8.2 Chevy eaton posi unit as the thrust washer do not have little ledges to hold them on the back of the pinion spider gears like an open diff does just one of those early carrier headaches....LOL Jim JD Race
I’ve actually pulled new Yukons out of the box that came assembled missing a thrust washer. I guess the obvious excessive play on one side got by quality control. That’s why I take everything apart.
I would just have sent it back...They will pay shipping back. I have not got the time to tear apart every item that we use to build... that is what you pay the supplier to do and trust to do it correctly. Just way too busy some one out there has to do their job correct too. lol Everything out in the world is screwed up and Now it is taking 3 times longer to get parts IF they are in stock at all. lol. Good luck guys - A lot of suppliers are OUT OF STOCK in a tons of parts engine transmission and rear end parts. If you have not finished your project ...You will be hard pressed to get it done this summer. Jim JD
Thanks , so far e been lucky . I figured it would (the case) roll off the counter and smash my foot. It is 2 series posi.+ Also I advised him issues involved in prior repair etc. Wish I could learn to assemble but doubt getting it right on first try. I am not 100% sure the sHims are back in there original order..I have the individual shims Matched to their respective races by circular scratches. One side pass has only one in center driver side has ribbon
I know they (the carrier races) aint supposed to turn yet pattern is there. Again I assume driver side has more load or thrust than pass. The car I believe was 454 monte 4spd. Poly bushing on rear. It had 2 piece steering shaft and VIN tag was present but I neither read it - removed it. I say the carrier (heavily loaded) moved around . The mains on rear sorta like mains on engine block- not black not spun but heated up. Finally if the cap could be examined the way I look at engine blocks while I magnaflux them one radius on cap has a sharp edge but only half of the circle or bore. Just guessing that further checking might show carrier loading -^^ up
If it’s a 2-series carrier,I would only use that for 2:56 or 2:73 gears. Do NOT use that with a spacer. Sooner or later,it will fail. Get the correct unit for the gear ratio that you want. Jim, I’ve had multiple units come from Yukon like that,but the main reason I don’t use them is the clutches are junk at best. I do like the side/spider gears,and the cases are pretty good. I have to put clutches in the Eatons too. NONE of the new clutch style units come with good clutches. The knurled steel are the only good ones,but with the Tru Trac availability,I just go that route.
Remember that is you - Most people are just not that hard on Posi units. they just do a burn out once in a while and are ICE cream getters. They do not want to heard all the noise that goes with steel clutches when the oil goes away in a summer of driving. We deal with it all the time. PLUS they are warrantied for a year for anything that goes wrong. SPACER- Never had a problem with a ring gear spacers as long as correct LENGTH bolts are assembled with the spacer. We ran 2 series posi with 3 series 4.10 (THAT IS A THICK GEAR) then added slicks, Big Block 462 and ran it on the track for 3 years... 12 sec with 1.65 sixty foot. Never had a failure. INSTALLATION is where most failures happen on any of this stuff. Again a person needs to make a choice. We need to give them the info and not sway too much as to what we would do cause we can afford better or stronger stuff because we have money or bias to an item. YES - there is always a limits. I tell customers if you are faster than 12 sec car...You can afford to make your car go that fast, than you can afford the correct Unit for the job. Right That is what the forum is all about and for.
I will run a spacer in an 8.5” faithfully,but not the 12-bolt. There just isn’t enough width on the ring gear journal of the carrier to take the spacer AND the ring gear. The ring gear is left floating out there and deflects and distorts under load until the bolts get fatigued enough and fail. I literally have a milk crate full of 12-bolt Chevy spacers that I have removed from failed rears throughout time.
They are all the same width or thickness. Most happened at your typical traffic light or car show burnout.
When my guy says thicker gear I took it to Mean just that. If that refers to a spacer, thats a different story. As he referred to present combo as crappy ratio I countered this.was going into car that Already had 2:56 in it. Stock 68 custom 2 ,barrel 2speed on the floor.
Even if you got the thicker 4:10 set,you would need to run a ring gear spacer along with it,to use with that carrier,which is not a good idea.
thick 4.10 ring and pinion(IS A 3 SERIES 4.10 GEAR SET) as stated by Brian which fits a 3 series carrier. a 2 series carrier will LAWAYS need a ring gear spacer to use any gear set steeper than 2.73. Period. a 2 series carrier will ALWAYS need a spacer to fit any 3 series gear or THICK 3 series gears. Brian, There will be no difference in running a thicker ring gear or a thin 3 series ring gear that extra thickness is not going to make any difference (worse or quoted 'not a good idea') as long as the base of the INNER diameter has enough to stay centered to the machine carrier body base it will work. If you read one of the first post statements i did this already to a 12 sec Big block car and slicks, 2 series carrier with a ring gear spacer and the thick 4.10 gears and never had an issue for 5-6 years . I did this test when I first started to doing rears - we did the worst thing everyone considered bad/taboo . as stated...proved that all wrong. We street drove it hard and drag raced it with slicks 1.65 60 foots (not a rocket ship) and 3970# ( Monte Carlo SS 1971 ) Not a light weight car either....not raced every weekend but maybe once a month here and there different tracks NO issues at all . I do not know what this guys intentions are with the ring gear spacer BUT I understand BOTH sides of your concerns. If you are just looking for some street fun and want to play and your a slower than 12 sec car and just hanging around the street, you should be fine with correct Install...(correct length bolts and correct thickness ring gear spacer plate) If you are drag racing / bracket racer etc...This is not a good thing to do. IF you have the money to get the correct part..... YOU SHOULD buy the correct carrier and gear set to do the job. BUT, Ring gear spacer may be low cost way to have some fun with maybe a low cost gear set.... or may use it to figure out if you want to use a certain ratio with out going all in and wasting a ton of money...??? Jim JD Race
Naw ,the original parts will be good enough for me. If the rear lasted all this time it should last behind a small block. If it becomes an issue for the tech, I can just buy the 3 series off the parts department like I did for the rear I bought out of 71 F-85 4spd. Th car had a shudder upon launching .When the case came into the shop , the side gears had wallowed out the case.. My manager at that time had believed it to be a different year and was going to drill out the ring mounting but I insisted I knew original car it came out of and required the larger bolts as per 71 10 bolt.When he checked.inventory correct unit was on showroom floor..The car still shook and the guy said not to pay for labor but that integrity has been lost cause he passed away recently. The people that can do the job and get it right on the first time are the ones I seek out.both these guys were drag racers
I haven’t found any of them that allow the ring gear to reach the journal,and would end up oscillating out there is space. However,the thicker 3-series gears have deeper bolts holes,so you could potentially run an even longer bolt to gain as much strength as possible. I tore one apart one time that had 9 of the 12 bolts intact. Someone welded the spacer to the carrier,then the ring gear to the spacer. Just wow. The missing bolts were broke off in the ring gear,so it had failed,then they cobbled it back together and welded it. Just when you thought you saw it all.
