Does not matter how many you build...It is how many stay together ...lol. I am always learning...NEVER know it all. We just keep talking and showing each other different things we have dealt with over the years and hopefully you just get smarter to cut down on mistakes. New ideas - sometimes these ideas come from back yards guys doing stuff that was NEVER suppose to be done...But can be used in different applications.... I just wish I had the youth in my body and could keep the knowledge...BUT it just does not work like that....LOL
Recently had a twelve bolt dropped off by a customer to our shop for inspect / repair and when I pulled the cover I found 2 spacers! The cobbled up adjustable shims were WAY off and the RGB’s even without the lock washers were holding on by about 3 to 4 threads at best. Upon removal of the gear the holes showed previous evidence of breaking off and had left a nice gouge in the carrier! Pinion of course was no where near shimmed correctly. One main cap on upside down... you get the gist. I build a lot of differentials for all different kinds of vehicles and have done so professionally as a driveshaft and diff builder for 25+ years and weather it’s an older vehicle or newer one, 2 or 4wd, I’ve seen some crazy things when someone has been in to them that has know idea on what they’re doing. I’ve got some stories! I used to post more answers years ago along with OPH and Monzaz when I had more time but Brian when I do get a chance to check the Ol’ V8 forum out I’m impressed. You’re on the ball buddy!
Good discussion guys I appreciate learning from you. PS. Monzaz the 3.42 Moser 12 bolt you built me 10 years ago is still holding up well. It was a reliable street car at 500 wheel Hp and then the new owner bumped it up to 800 hp and it’s been solid.
I think I sold it as it was a original SS 454 car 400th slip yoke original u-joints too. But I was never going back to a 3 speed trans again. No But what did you need to know?
Do you haveany driveshafts that are 55 0r 56 1n long. Guess it would be 70 chevelle- -monte carlo .yoke size would match turbo 350 spline or require 1310 u joint. My parts hoarder guy wouldn't sell one with out knowing the size- instead wanting to wait till car was assembled. Second attempt was a customer that threw 454 into 71 mc when he brought car back with motor noise and og shaft in trunk we secured his hei cap and noise went away but he wanted to pair shaft+trans to sell. Tho rear on shaft had been ruined. Iprobably will have to return to first guy.
HOW ARE YOU MEASURING YOUR DRIVE SHAFT? CENTER OF U JOINT TO CENTER OF U-JOINT? OR OTHER? craps caps were on...sorry.
Once I had viewed multiple posts with 56 in long mentioned I called my hoarder -So he returned message stating he had one 55 3/4.. Center to Center of u joints. Shaft doesnt have the necked down section at each end like im used to but it appears to have t-350 size input but I havent checked. I went over there instead of waiting -- . he had just bougt a 71 MC and was trying to free the engine up. Also he had bought a pile of shafts. So I have warranty privileges. He was thinking of replacing 12 bolt in car with a 10 bolt and selling the 12. Also stating he had 10 guys on waiting list.for 12 bolts
Now he wont sell proportion valves separately well I have to move on,,,,, I bought a 12 bolt cover at his place It was behind two stacks of inspection covers that covered up a snow plow and cover was laying behind that- had to go in there like a racoon
Most people end up paying too much for a 12-bolt Chevy core. By the time you scrap everything you don’t need,you just have the housing and caps,unless it has decent gears and a posi,and that is what you are looking for. By the time you get it all done,you are in the range of Moser 12-bolt money,and are usually better off either buying one complete,or their housing and axle package,and building it yourself. If it’s your typical 2:73 or 2:56 non-posi,you really shouldn’t pay more than $500.00 for it. If you need a plain 12-bolt cover,I have a stack of them,already powder-coated.
