I got a call on rebuilding a 1937 buick starter. It was at one starter shop twice and now is at another starter shop and now I get a call to rebuild it. I'm not concerned about rebuilding it, but I wonder what I may run into now that it has been attempted to be repaired 3 times unsucessfully. It has been awhile since I have worked on a 1937 buick, but I seem to remember no ign or push button start but rather a gas pedal start (not a foot switch). I think there was a connection to the carb or manifold, but I can't recall the exact system. I seem to also remember the solenoid ground being connected through the regulator. If anyone can refresh my memory as to the set up I sure would appreciate it. Thanks.
I don't really understand electricity. I do know how to change a lightbulb, and how to pay the electric bill. The accelerator pedal start has been explained to me as; The starter switch is on the carburetor, once the engine starts , vacuum breaks the switch's contact (breaking the positive side) As a double fail safe , the switch's ground is through the generator(very well could be through the regulator as said above). Once the generator starts making juice , that ground is lost . (disabling the switch from both ends) 1936 was the first year for accelerator starting, When Buick went using alternators (1964? I don't know much about those new Buicks), the ability to ground through the charging system was lost. So that was the end of the accelerator start.
Thank You all. I won't get the starter until tomorrow or later. I won't get to see the car. I was asking just incase the starter tests good and it isn't working on the car. I don't have details yet. I hope I can get to talk to the owner instead of just the last shop working on the starter to see if there were any changes made to the start system.
The conventional Buick carb mounted starter switch does need vacuum to work properly; - most of my experience dealing with bad starters or problems in these things was as a result of low vacuum, - the starters refused to cut out after the engines started and made an awful noise. There's a two pole bakelite switch on the top;- close these contacts and the starter circuit is live. Once the engine starts, vacuum pulls down a piston which causes the checkball to break the contact, shutting off the starter. Please be aware this is a very simplified description, - it's been years since I had one, that's the way the Carter on my 46 Super was set up. Other issues could be gunk in the bore inhibiting the piston from travelling back once the vacuum is broken, - if you're not getting power to the starter, that's where I'd begin looking. Just looked up the 1937 switch, oh boy...The 1937 switch is a weird one, it's actually on the manifold away from the carb and works off the manifold vacuum, - but the linkage has to be in perfect alignment for it to work right. I don't know if it can be taken apart either, it doesn't look like it.
I remember Dad's '36 had a big switch on the manifold as you've described. My '55 has a small switch on the side of the carburetor
I went over the starter today and it looks very good. Tested it before and after and it is working. Talked to the owner and he wants me to deliver it and take a look as to why it won't crank over. I think you are right about the manifold switch. I'll let you know what I find.
The switch mounted on the manifold is bad. I opened the switch and the contacts are worn bad and the bakelite is broken inside the switch. He needs a replacement. Does anyone know where there might be one for sale?
If all else fails I'd probably mount a push button under the dash; - like Tom says, try Bob's first, then Fusick Automotive, and CARS, they might have something.
