1967 rear diff

Yeah my boy rotated the wheel while i was under the car counting the driveshaft rotations.

 

Where's the best place or person to buy 3.36 gears for this. Would be buying to bearings and everything. I'll open the rear up sometime this month hopefully to verify what gears are actually in there before I purchase new ones. Just wondering about prices and where to order

 

What ever you do stay away from Yukon 3:36 gear sets. They are extremely noisy and can’t be adjusted properly.

Find domestically or European manufactured sets. Stay away from Chinese or Asian sets.

 

Yukon has 3.36 gears, don't see anyone else that has them. Where is a good place to buy?

 

I’ve installed a few sets of 3:42’s for the BOP 8.2’s lately. I think they were spicer/DANA,but I can check to confirm that. I will be building another BOP 8.2” with 3:73’s next month.
Now,let me address the noisy gearset stereotype once again. Most manufacturers have a cheaper line and and higher-end line,as far as quality goes. However,it all comes down to setting them up. Much like the older Richmond’s,before they were bought by Motive,were very finicky to set up. They were were a very hard material and were not forgiving to any error. There was all the folklore that Richmond’s were noisy or all the 4:10’s were noisy,etc. That just isn’t so. Are they a pain to set up at times? You bet,but they can be set up to run quiet. I occasionally need to install Yukon gears if they are the only manufacturer that provides a gear for a certain application. I find them different than the Motives that I usually set up,but it can be done. Now,if,for whatever reason,you set up a set of gears and they make noise during the initial drive,stop driving it. Make note of how or where they make noise and you can re-set the gears to correct it. If any shop or “professional” tells you to keep driving it and the sound will go away,you need another shop and that professional is not a professional. Just last week,there was a fellow v8buick member that told me of that exact story of how he had a rear built,it is noisy,and the shop told him to just keep driving it to make it quiet. Well,it’s been a year later and plenty of miles and it’s still noisy. I am sure that if I could have gotten my hands on it soon enough,I could have corrected it,but it’s been driven too much now and there will be some abnormal wear on the gears. Lastly,if you get a set of gears that have numbers scribed in them for pinion depth and backlash,for the love of god,ignore those numbers. Those are simply a starting point. The proof is in the pattern. I generally try to hit the suggested backlash,but there are plenty of times where the pattern is better with a little less or a little more. The suggested pinion depth is almost never correct. Not even close. I still see and hear of situations where the gears are setup up to the numbers,but nobody ever bothered to run a pattern with compound. Those people must enjoy repeating their work when it fails. I dunno. It only takes a few minutes to check it before proceeding with final assembly and trial run.

 

Sorry for going off topic, but what do you experienced guys think of the Dana svl gears? I bought an inexpensive kit that came with a Yukon duragrip and those gears. They seem to work fine. A little noisy, but are running cool and have survived many burnouts already.

 

The DANA/SVL gears are nice gears. They setup fairly easy and run quiet. They make a 3:23 for the 8.5” 10-bolt where Motive does not,so when I need that ratio,I install those. I am pretty sure the last few sets of BOP 8.2” gears were also DANA/SVL.

 

Brian- best place to purchase new gears? In a 3.36. I'll be tearing it all the way down and putting in new seals and bearings.
I'm going to triple check the trans to make sure it's an M20, but if it is by chance an M21 what would be a better ratio for that one? 3.55?

 

Never have I ever run across any 3.42 BOP gear NEW.
Where are you finding these? ???
12 bolt olds yes
8.25 Buick 68 - 70 Fabcraft
and
of coarse corp 8.5 3.42.
No Pontiac 8.2 3.42 gears
I have set up the yukon 3.36 they were quite that I know of...
NOT to say when they were forst produced I had a 3.36 yukon that was double cut on one tooth. it never touched the pinion ...compound never swipe off the compound...no matter how many times i went around...lol.
Jim
JD Race

 

DO NOT use FORD 9" 3.25 SVL gears they were JUNK that I got from summit... MAde noise like crazy... Went to Motive used the same .021 shim...and was quiet perfect.
AS STATED MANY TIMES... you can get turds in just about any company... THERE IS NEVER a guarantee of a perfect gear till it is in and tested,

 

Also another weird thing with YUKON gears 3.36 ratio ...they did make different tooth counts 11 - 36 is your factory tooth count... Yukon made some that ratio-ed out to 3.38 ratio..?? Weird huh? there were MORE teeth for the pinion and ring. I think it was 44 and 13 teeth... was WEIRD. ran those and they were quiet. I had to count 3 times cause I did not believe it?????

 

Now I have to think about that. Maybe they were 3:55’s. I know they were not 3:36’s. I installed them into this one. He originally wanted a patriotic paint job,but for now just a white powder-coat.
I did notice recently that there might be a Tru Trac unit available for the BOP 8.2” now. I haven’t looked into it yet,but I know it’s been something that’s been requested for awhile.

 

How much power do you think a 64-65 Skylark 8.2 could be built to take? It would be raced on drag radials and has a 455. I have the original rear from my wife's 64 and wondering if it would be worth building down the road or should I look for something else? I currently have a 3.90 geared 8.2 from a 70 GTO I used to own in the car which is a 64 Special.

Thanks,
Ken

 

@BrianTrick so asking around to the Muncie guys trying to figure out for sure which trans I have and it looks like it is an M21. So then what rear gear to go with.

 

The M21 coupled with a 3:36 will lack a little in first gear,but it is doable. Not the end of the world. The 3:55 would be better in that situation. How tall is the rear tire?

 

Currently has 245/60r15

 

That’s short,so that will help if you run the 3:36.

 

I don't know enough about this to give much info, but I did just have a '65 Buick 8.2, and a '70 Pontiac 8.2 apart. The Pontiac housing has an extra support rib, and the axles looked a bit beefier (than the Buick 8.2) too. The replacement axles seem easier to find for the Pontiac rear.

I am not sure that I would use anything weaker than the Pontiac rear with a big block.

 

DRAG radials have ruined more limited slip posi units- You need to make a decision on where this car will spend 70% of its time.
ANYTHING with stick shift is a episode for disaster because YOU the customer have total control to make or break the rear and or all other drive line parts.
8.2 and drag radials the track your asking for a headache.
EVEN on the street people try to be burn out KING or QUEENS... THE drag radial is made to get traction not for doing burn out contests.
When the tires break loose the drive line is not under as much stress...BUT you had better be sure your fluid level is correct or your going to burn up bearings from HEAT of the burn out.