Can anyone tell me where the Ignition relay is located on a 68 Wildcat? The car starts fine, but wil not shut off. I have determined that the ignition switch if functioning properly. I believe the relay is stuck. Also, what relay I need to replace it with. Thanks!
The only relay I am aware of would be the statter solenoid. Did you change the alternator, wiring or the ignition system? Is there a possibility the switch is out of adjustment, not sure if the 68 is column mounted or dash.
68 is dash. I hadn't changed anything. One day I drove it and it just didn't shut off. Dash lights stay on even if I remove the ignition switch, so I'm not sure what is the issue, but I know it's not the ignition switch because I tested a replacement and still have the same issue.
It has to be something not shutting power off to the ignition coil. There should be two wires on the positive side of the coil, one from the starter solenoid and one from the ignition switch. I would disconnect the one from the starter (at the coil) and use a jumper wire to the + coil terminal and start the car. Remove the the jumper and shut off the ignition. If the engine quits, it's probably a bad starter solenoid. If it doesn't shut off, the problem is on the ignition side from the switch.
Try unplugging the alternator plastic connector (while it’s running with the key off) and see if it dies. If so that will indict the alternator or regulator. Patrick
There is only one wire on the positive side of the coil. When I remove the jumper, the engine dies whether the ignition is in run or off. The dash lights come on "gen" "oil" as well in either key position. Since it shuts off in key on and off positions, what does this indicate?
The jumper that I used as a test lead. So, yes, when I remove the positive wire/jumper...same thing. The ignition switch is dash mounted, not column. Any thoughts? I think something not disengaging properly.
The ignition lock cylinder is not the same as the ignition switch. Your problem is the voltage to the coil positive wire is not going to zero when you turn the lock cylinder to off. The 70 and up has the lock cylinder in the steering column, BUT, the ignition switch is on the base of the steering column. Your car has the lock cylinder AND the ignition switch in the dash. That means that the lock cylinder installs in the ignition switch. Your problem is in the ignition switch. The only other explanation is you have some sort of wiring problem after the ignition switch, but that seems unlikely unless someone was monkey farting around with the wiring. Have you had this problem always, or did it suddenly occur? The ignition switch is a one year only, and hard to find. https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/ignition-switch-1968-buick-gs-400.324362/ I would try and take yours apart if possible. You may be able to see what is wrong. I went through the 1968 Buick Chassis Manual and found this wiring diagram,
I see on the wiring diagram for your car, you do only have one terminal to the + side of the coil. There is a splice in that wire. One end comes from the starter R terminal, hot in crank only, and the other comes from the ignition switch through the resistor wire. After you turn the ignition switch off and the car is still running, do you have full battery voltage at the + coil terminal, or or a reduced voltage? That will at least tell you if it's the ignition switch side or the starter solenoid side.
I appreciate your thoughts on this and am aware of the difference between the switch and cylinder. I was able to obtain another ignition switch and paid quite a bit for it. Unfortunately the issue remains. This was an all of a sudden issue that popped up one day out of nowhere and I had not been "monkey farting" (lol) around with the wiring. Not sure where the gremlin is, but it magically appeared.
No, the R terminal at the starter supply's 12v to the coil during cranking. Once you release the key, voltage goes through the resistor to reduce voltage to the points. I've never seen an issue with the starter solenoid always suppling battery voltage to the coil, but you have to start diagnosing somewhere. Make sure that there isn't an aftermarket accessory tapped into the fuse box and possibly shorting two circuits together. I've seen that where a radio was installed and at the fuse box, they used fuse taps and they got bent up causing two circuits to short together.
OK, as long as you weren't monkey farting around, there is a wiring problem then. If you look at the wiring diagram, the purple wire goes off the BAT position on the ignition switch, then goes through the Neutral Safety switch, and on to the solenoid (S) terminal. That actuates the starter motor. We are talking about the Pink wire off the IGN terminal of the ignition switch. If you trace that on the diagram, it goes through the fuse block (labeled GAGES?), and then the resistance wire to the + side of the coil. It is also joined by the yellow wire off the solenoid (R) terminal which bypasses the resistance wire during cranking for faster starts. There is a shorting switch inside the solenoid that closes only during cranking to bypass the resistance wire. It is possible that the shorting switch inside the starter solenoid is stuck on. This would feed the coil + wire keeping the engine from shutting off. It kinda fits since in your post #9, you mentioned the dash lights are on, and that pink IGN wire goes through the fuse block at the GAGES position. Maybe the yellow wire is back feeding everything and causing your problems.
Use a voltmeter or test light to check for voltage at the R terminal of the starter solenoid. It should only be there during cranking, NOT in the OFF, and RUN positions of the ignition switch.
You will have voltage at the R terminal in the run position, but it will be a lower voltage because it is coming from the resistance wire. That is unless they use a diode in the yellow wire. The yellow wire should have 12v cranking, 8-9v? running, and 0v with key off.
